2003 F150 4.6 V8 won't start when temp outside is 85 or more, even when engine is cold. BUT accidentally discovered that if someone pushes in on the gas cap, it will start right up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 F150 w 4.6L engine with auto trans which I bought new and has approx. 150,000 miles on it. Very recently it would crank and crank and not start or sometimes would start. In searching through multiple threads on here many of the Ford techs recommended replacing the IAC valve as a cheap and easy to do fix and I did that. The OEM factory IAC valve appeared to be dirty with black soot. I also cleaned the MAF sensor in the air filter snorkel. I also replaced my very old battery at the same time. I verified that the fuel pump was running for about a second or two and shuts off after the ignition switch was turned to ON so the fuel pump is running since I could hear it. I replaced he fuel filter several years ago so it should be OK and not plugged.
I had to use starting fluid after the battery replacement to get the truck running but after I got it started and I did several driving cycles over three days to make sure the truck computer reset properly and the truck was running fine and starting without a problem. I was checking the starting every 4 hours or so for the first two days and it would start on the first crank every time without a hiccup.
This morning on day 4 when I went to start it the same problem occurred where it would crank several times and not start. I loosened the filter snorkel up and shot some starting fluid in there and it cranked up after a couple of tries and ran fine all the way to work. It seems like I have a fuel delivery issue of some type. I know the fuel pump is inside the tank and very expensive to replace if it turns out that it needs replacement. That is definitely beyond my capabilities. I plan to check the fuel pressure this weekend when I have a chance and can rent a gauge from Autozone.
My question is this: If it turns out to be a defective fuel pump can I just add an inline electric fuel pump outside the tank and have it pull through the tank in the pump leaving the in-tank pump abandoned in place? Are there any other sensors or parts I should be checking for voltages, resistance, etc. that would affect fuel delivery for starting? The truck seems to run very well with no misses of any kind and accelerates nicely after it starts. Also, no "Check Engine" light at any time and the bulb is working since it lights up momentarily when the ignition is turned to ON position.
Update Saturday June 25 - Got a fuel pressure test gauge and got the following results after installing a new fuel filter:
1. Bled off fuel pressure to connect gauge and after 5 or 6 Key On, engine off cycles the pressure came up to about 38psi and truck started up fine after pressure was at 38 psi. The pressure built up slowly after the bleed off with each ON/Off cycle and that is why it required 5 or 6 cycles to reach 38 psi.
2. Key ON, engine idling maintained 31 psi
3. Key ON, engine revved up slightly maintained about 31 psi and seemed to stay there even with more throttle increase.
4. Key ON, engine idling, disconnected fuel pressure regulator line and pressure increased to about 40 psi and stayed there
5 . Left the gauge connected after turning off engine. Key OFF, engine off, after 1 min fuel pressure increased to 33psi. It is about 90 degrees in the shade here today.
6 Key OFF, engine OFF, after 2 min gauge read 33 psi, after 5 min increased to 34 psi, after 15 min decreased to 33 psi, after 30 min decreased to 29 psi, after 45 min decreased to 26 psi, and after 60 min decreased to 23 psi. The pressure seems to decrease slightly with time which I think is what it is supposed to do. Is the pressure decrease rate too fast or about right?
The truck seems to be running fine and starts up immediately after sitting for a few hours but I am making sure to turn the key on/off for at least one or two cycles to build up fuel pressure and the truck starts every time for the last week. Does it seem like my fuel pump is OK or not? Fuel pressure regulator OK or not? Any other diagnostic tests I should run?
This has happened twice in 3 years....I get regular service from a Ford dealer and am overdue.... I think it may be temp related. Has been below freezing the last few nights. Truck was parked on an incline during the last two "shutdowns" ( engine lower than bed slightly), I drifted to a level position and it started. This has only happened twice previously. Now it seems to be a permanent problem but I am unable to get to the dealer without a tow... which I am trying to avoid.
View 2 Repliesmy truck isn't starting when cabs hot but it's cool under hood, tried relays n new fuel pump! Grr , it doesn't stall , I did disconnect thr battery n reset memory but nothing
View 14 RepliesSo she will crank all day but no start. Theft light is going nuts like I am trying to steal my own truck!! I've read it could be a PATS issue.
However after I unplugged my pos batt cable and hook it right back up she starts like nothing ever happened.
its only happening every once in awhile. but it does get old. I have been just leaving my pos cable off whenever I shut the truck off.
When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
View 3 Replies2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
Took my dad's snailblazer (trailblazer) since the 4.2 i6 in it gets better mpg than the old worn 5.4 in the f150. Well I didn't leave much gas in the 30 gallon tank about 1/4 tank or 7 1/2 gallons. My dad took it to the gas station on Friday and filled it to 3/4 of a tank. Got back in the truck and attempted to turn it over and got nothing.
Battery cable was a bit loose from what he told me, so he tighten it up. Nothing. I know the fuel pump is still going cause when you turn the key forward you can hear it whine. Starter is only a few years old maybe 6 or so. Not sure if that went bad or something else.
Last time something similar happened the A/C compressor seized up and wouldn't allow the engine to turn over. Well we eliminated the compressor around '09 and bolted a pulley in its place. Off the top of my head I can't think of anything that would have seized up causing this.
I'm trying to diagnose a no start issue on my son's 1997 F150 4.6L W code motor. It quit on him while driving and we haven't been able to get it re-started since. We immediately assumed the fuel pump was bad as we were not getting any fuel pressure and we cannot hear the pump running at key on. So we pulled the pump and bench tested it, and the pump itself seems fine.
We then checked for spark, we have spark in all cylinders. After that we started checking fuses and #30 under the dash was blown. We replaced that and it blew again at Key on. We ended up going through about a 1/2 dozen of them while poking and prodding at misc. wire harnesses trying to figure out why it keeps blowing. Today we put a new one in and have tried restarting and that one is not blowing anymore, but we still cannot get fuel pressure. We've checked all fuses and swapped relays around. We noticed that under the dash #20 and #21 do not have power, but the fuses are ok. Are we finally on to something here?
I just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
2001 F-150 5.4 extended cab
You have probably seen this before. Engine cranks but will not start. Backed into driveway, loaded recyclables, truck would not start. Fuel pump relay clicks, a small amount of gas comes out of the schrader valve on the fuel rail when I press the stem with a phillips head sd. When the engine is cranking the check engine light is on so I assume the computer is working but there are no RPMs showing on the tach. At this point I'm thinking a bad crank position sensor. Would that sucker go all at once like that? I believe they hid that behind the ac compressor. Am I looking at removing the belt and compressor to get at the sensor?
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat. About a month ago I stopped to fill up with gas and afterwards it would crank but not start. After a few tries the engine would no longer turn over. My battery was 7 years old so I replaced it and the problem went away for about 5 days. Then the same thing, crank but no start. I checked all the fuses & called the local Ford dealer.
After talking with the parts dept. I tried hitting the panic button then the truck started. After talking to parts again I replaced the PATS transceiver. After 3 weeks with no issues the problem came back. This time I locked the doors with the keyless entry remote then unlocked them & the truck started. So I'm wondering what is my problem. Could it be the PATS module or something with the keyless entry module or some other issue.
I have a 1997 f-150 V6 4.2L 2WD. I've been noticing a few symptoms going on and aren't sure if they're related or not. Firstly, I hooked my code reader to the truck and I have P0453 DTC active: Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input. As far as symptoms, truck runs overall pretty well. However, if I shut off the truck after running for awhile and then immediate attempt to start it back up, the starter will spin the flywheel but it won't ignite unless I apply pressure to the gas pedal.
Again, this is only when it's hot. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have 35 psi when running, and seeing as how I don't really have any other fuel-related issues going on (aside from the DTC, which I'm unfamiliar with, so it may be related??), so I don't think it's a fuel pump or anything issue. Maybe an issue with the TPS? I work on diesel trucks so throttle body systems are foreign and strange to me.
Went to start my truck up about 3 hours ago to take my ol' lady to work. Turned it over and acted like the usual cold start. Well soon as I thought it was good to let the engine spin, it got to about 300-400 RPM and then died. So I shut the vent off and turned my head lights off (turned them on soon as I thought it was good), spun the engine again and when it hesitated once again I gave it some gas like you would on a carb (not pumping just gave it half throttle or so) brought up the engine to about 3K and it ran just fine.
I'm not sure if its the fuel filter (when the last time my dad even bothered to change it since he has done most of the work on it in the time we've had it) or if the fuel pump is going out for the 3rd time in the last 10 years. The last time the fuel pump went it was a bad Walker fuel pump. It was promptly replaced with a Bosch and has been going strong for the last 8 years or so.
If it is the fuel pump, my guess is either my dad is going to junk it or fix it. With it getting close to 260K miles its becoming warn out and showing its age. Been pretty dependable and will do just about anything you ask and it'll do it even if it takes a long time to get going.
The fuel lines are pretty rusty so if its the filter chances are we'll have to put in a new section of fuel line in. Its probably running close to 135K miles on it since it was last done. I've only started doing maintenance on it the last 6 years or so for the most part.
Winds way up with a whine for the immediate 2-3 seconds after a cold start only and settles down as normal. Disturbing new sound and action that just started in the last day or two. 216k on the clock.
View 4 Replies1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
F-150 Super Crew 5.4 4X4 cranks won't start. what and where do I check first?
View 8 Replies1998 F150 tries to start on its own. It starts and drives fine, then stop, take key out, wait few minutes then it tries to start on its own. I unhooked the battery cable.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 F-150 2WD 4.6L V-8 that began having random misfires as I would drive. I was planning on going out today to get the new plugs and coils however when I got off work and pulled into my drive something happened when I went to leave the truck wouldn't even crank it just made a clicking noise. The battery has full power (the radio ect. still works). I am hoping that the problem is with the coils and plugs but if not ...
View 5 RepliesFirst of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
I have a '99 F-150 with 4.6L V-8. The truck has run perfectly since I bought it a year ago. My grandson took it a short distance to a neighborhood store, and when he got back he parked on the neighbor's lawn.
IMMEDIATELY after turning it off, I told him to move it, and it would not start. Wouldn't even turn over. I did a little research, and replaced the most likely culprit, the starter....no change in condition. When keyed to start, the dash lights up, but that's it! I did get under the truck and there IS voltage getting to the large power lead.
The starter has it's own solenoid, however there is another one mounted to the firewall. Does this have anything to do with the starter?