Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: V8 Truck Won't Start With Clicking Noise
Oct 14, 2013
It's a 97 with the 4.6 v8. I turn the key and the lights in the cab go out. A voltmeter on the battery reads 12.53 and doesn't drop at all when the key is turned. I took the alternator out and had it tested with a pass. The battery was replaced 2 months ago. I can hear the relay in the fuse box clicking away after the key is returned to the off position. Is my next step a new starter? Solenoid? Relay? This all just happened overnight. And it's only got 115,000 miles. The starter does not turn over...
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Start truck cold, getting clicking noise...sounds like valve but runs great. Warms up and clicking goes away. Remove #1 spark plug and it shows build up of whitish carbon. Will remove the other spark plugs and check. Also starting to use half a can of oil a week. No leaks that I can see. Oil pressure gauge shows high...always has. Also, open door and get out after driving and smell oil. Wanted to make it to 400k but might not be able to with this issue.
Going to do a compression check to see what else is happening. Still have decent power. If cylinder pressure is good would it make since to do just a "top end" rebuild (if it is a valve issue? Should i pull it and do a complete rebuild? What does white build up on spark plug usually indicate?
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
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2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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Got a 99 f150 4x4. 4x4 use to work perfectly until 6 months ago. Now every time I turn the key on, I hear 5-6 clicks behind the dash (specifically behind the speedometer). This happened right when the 4x4 stopped working. This click is the same sound it use to make when it was working when I would shift 2H, 4H or 4L. (but just one click per turn). I get no light indicators nor click sound when I turn the switch. I've replaced the actuator, solenoids and the switch on the dash itself.
The same problem persists. I have a good vacuum and can see the actuator moving when manually grounding either solenoid to simulate a working 4x4 system. Fuse 23 and 104 are good. I had a semi-mechanic check the GEM and said 90% chance it was good but did come back with code 1838 Transmission Transfer Case Shift Motor Circuit Failure and code 1867 Transmission Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure.The secret relay went bad? The wire went bad? Secret 4x4 connector came loose somewhere?
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I have a 98 f150 Lariat 4wd Automatic with a 2000 4.6. When i turn the key the only thing that happens is i hear a relay in the fusebox in the dash clicking. I can cross the starter relay on the firewall with a screwdriver and itll start right up. Heres what ive done troubleshooting wise.
1. Checked battery terminals. Fine, it will start with jumping the relay so it seems good with that regard.
2. Tested the relay per the manual. Good.
3.Ohms Tested the white ignition switch box under the dash per manual. Good
4. Voltage tested the Trans Range Sensor per manual. Good.
5. Checked over all fuses, none blown.
6. No theft lights come on.
I figure since it will start jumping the relay that the battery, starter, and starter solenoid are all good. Only thing i cant seem to find is the Starter Interrupt Relay, or any sign of fusible links on the main battery cables. I am really at a loss here i figured one of the components ive tested would be it.
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
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I have a 1997 f150 that as soon as I hook up the battery, the truck tries to start itself, what would cause this?
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2001 f150 4x4 5.4 205k ... This truck is not my daily driver but I use it about once or twice a week. Last night I drove it to the store and it ran great. As good as ever.
This morning it won't start. It cranks and the battery is strong but no bang. It was cold. Just below freezing for the first time this year. No blown fuses where would you start?
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I have a 97 f150 with a 4.9..... I drove it less than a half a mile and shut it off. when I got back in it to start it up it wouldn't do anything like the battery was dead but all the electrical worked but it would not turn over. after about 4 hours when I returned, it started just fine. drove it straight home and shut it off and immediately tried to start it again and had the same issue. What the culprit may be ?
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Last two weeks I have had my truck randomly not want to start while in park. If I shift to neutral it has so far started up everytime, but as of today I was at work at a security gate that sits at the bottom of a mild to moderate incline and the moment after I had put the truck in park and lift off of the brakes the truck clicks moves forward making a clicking sound life the parking prawl is not fully engaging or something.
So doing some google searching the closest answer come up with is that its a failing/out of adjustment Transmission Range Sensor. Does this sound right? I had the tranny rebuilt last year and only have put on 7,500 to 10,000 miles so its not a matter of age since it looks like the sensor was replaced at that time.
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I did the power door fix, wrapping the door actuator motor 'resistor' in foil, and all was good. This morning I started the truck to move it, all fine, then pulled the door panel off to readjust the window guide in the door as windows were binding. After adjustment I went to turn on the ignition to test the window and the Theft light is on, and the truck won't start! It's a1999 F150, 5.4L.
1. The power comes on when I turn the key to ON, then when I turn the key to start the truck I hear nothing, no clicking, and the power goes off.
2. After leaving the key in the On position for 45 seconds, the Theft light blinks rapidly, the odometer is all dashes, the RPM and Speedometer gauges swing to max, then back to 0.
3. When turning the key to start the truck, there's a 1 click sound (solenoid?), then all power goes off on the instrument panel, no cranking.
What might have gone wrong here? Could the wrapping of the 'resistor' in foil in the door actuator have caused an electrical short? [URL] .....
Below happened previously but not any more...
4. When I turn the power back on to ON and push the buttons for the windows, the power seems to cycle On / Off in 2 second intervals, as the window goes down a bit, then stops, then goes down a bit, stops etc. and the lights on the instrument panel dim / go on / dim in the same cycle.
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Last night my boyfriend took a friend to the check cashing store, truck ran fine. shut it off, and when he came out the truck would not start. it cranks over but won't start. Took ignition coil off and had it tested but its fine. What else could be wrong or what can i do to try to get it to start again.
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I ran out of CNG - truck won't start on reg fuel. Fuse good, relay clicking and I believe I have voltage going to plug connector going to tank. However, I do not have any wiring diagram to know what I'm looking for. The plug is four wire - yellow- 11 volts, red / black stripe 7 volts, black / red stripe and black wire no volts. What checks can I make before dropping the fuel tank and pulling fuel pump? 2003 F150 7700 Bi-fuel ....
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I went to walmart and let the engine run for a while and shut it off. It would not start until it cools off. Now that its cool it starts fine. It just started doing it. Come to think of it i did get some gas in it.
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