Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: V6 Rough Idle / Black Smoke / Throwing 6 Codes
Dec 19, 2012
so i bought this truck about 3 months ago and it was running real bad when i got it, I went ahead and changed the lower and upper intake gaskets, cleaned throttle body, egr ports on lower and upper intake, did timing chain cover gaskets and 3 bad injectors i found while doing gaskets, truck ran better but still black smoking(running rich) and getting 8 mpg. So I changed fan clutch,fuel pump fuel filter,airfilter,MAF sensor(old one was pulling 14.4 volt), DPFE sensor and all 4 oxygen sensors(old ones carboned up and real sooty).
I've checked my egr valve while idling and when it opens the engine just about stalls, truck seems to be running better but CEL light came on again and is throwing these CODES:
P0453 (evap emission ctrl sys pressure sensor high input),
P0141,
P0153,
P0135(oxy sensors),
P0401exhaust gas recirculation flow insuff detected,
P0460fuel tank level indicator circuit error.
And I believe I've told everything i know ...
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I just bought a used 2006 Ford F-150 it has the Triton 4.6L V8. Seems to be running ok a little white smoke on start up, but the other night after leaving work at 5am when it was around 10 degrease freezing. When I started my truck it was idling very rough like it was about to die but it didn't after it warmed up it was a little better but I think I seen black smoke from the rear end, but like I said after it was warm it sounded like normal so I started to head home and got about 15 mins down the road and it started to run very bad like it was bogging down and lost all power if I pushed on the gas all the way I was not picking up any speed but if I let off the gas the truck would jerk very bad and gain speed. But the next day in the morning it started up fine no problem I even drove it around town with no issue. What this issue could be?
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I have a 2000 F150 4.2L and I have 2 codes PO304 & PO174 so far I have changed my plugs & wires,fuel filter,mass air flow sensor, and coil pack...it is still running rough under a load and a little rough on idle..
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My trucks throwing 2 codes after traveling at low speeds and getting pretty warm. Drove it home after it cooled down. P1451 with is the EVAP Cannister Vent solenoid and P0353 which is Cylinder 3 Primary/Secondary Ckt. I keep getting told these are not connected but im not sure I believe that. Ive replaced the coil with 2 of my stock coils already with no luck, ive replaced the spark plug as well.
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I'm losing coolant have, excessive white smoke coming from the exhaust, and rough idle. Doesn't over heat or even try to overheat. The oil fill cap looks brownish white. It drives fine other than extremely rough idle. I know how to check a blown head gasket with the combustion gas test.
From what I've read blown head gaskets on 4.6 fords are fairly uncommon but a blown intake gasket is fairly common. How can I tell the difference?
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I have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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I have a 01 f150 7700 with a 5.4L and its throwing codes po135, po155, po174, and po171. Here is the history, last year had same code and found it was a bad ELLBOW on pcv hose, replaced and that fixed it, I also had a crack on egr valve and I replaced that too. This Jan truck was running bad in the morning and I traced it to a bad idle air controller, replaced it. I got a code and guy said I had a bad pcv valve so I replaced it.
About 3 weeks ago check engine light came back on with the 4 codes listed above, I replaced both front o2 sensors, 250,000 mile so I thought that was it but came back same code, I took it to a local mechanic and he said that the intake gaskets need replaced, but he call me later and said I had no leaks on the intake and that he did find another vac leak. He didn't charge me anything and sent me on my way.
I drove the truck about 50 miles and same codes back, so to recap I have cleaned mad sensor, replaced both front o2 sensors, a new egr valve, a new idle air control, pcv valve, pcv hose and ELLBOW, don't know what to look at next. Any clues?
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I got my 2.0 turbo project up and running. no CEL but i did have a bad o2 code but it was erased and didn't come back.
Not only is it rough idle and smoking out the exhaust but i am also getting smoke out of my catch can vent.
The smoke looks black coming out of the tailpipe but little blue after it gets out a ways from the car. Where to look??
I did just replace a piston and install a head gasket spacer. I don't know if that could be causing it some and it will go away with some driving or what?
I have not taken it out on the road as I have some brake work to finish. so mostly it idled.
Here is a link to a video on what the car is doing : [URL] .....
Its a 01 engine code....
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I just bought a 2002 v10 crew cab, everything great form the first 3 months, but then my coolant sensor stopped working, changed it, and the same thing! Only works a couple of times, and the truck started to rough idle a little, and now I have black smoke coming out of the exhaust!
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I have a 1994 chev Blazer S 10. that has thesy troubles. when it warms up it runs high and hot exhaust and ruff idle. with a hot cat. Replaced EGR carbon build up at times.replaced fuel pump, and all the senors under the hood. Still runs the same.
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05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
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1999 f250 standard 266k miles ... Has a SES light throwing p0603 and p0470 ...
When the light is on the truck has a slight miss feeling to it and it seems low on power when the light goes off it will buck and sputter the lever off and it seems to have loads of power then the light comes on it will buck and sputter then go back to having low power. I have also checked the valve cover harnesses and they are good not sure where to go from here...
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On Tuesday morning I was watching an auction on my computer and saw a 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab Fx4 with 200K on it. It had an inspection report which is *supposed* to note every cosmetic and mechanical issue. It had nothing listed wrong with it for mechanical. I "won" and for my prize I get a rough-running 6.0 diesel delivered.
I just got off the phone with the transporter who picked it up today and he said there are no check engine lights but it is running rough with no power. So I am having him drop it off at a diesel repair shop.
Hopefully it is just something with the wiring harness but I have a feeling it's got at least a few bad injectors so I am probably screwed.
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I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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So I just had both cats replaced and now the car is running very rough and trowing out mis-fire codes. What could cause this? Going to disconnect the battery to reset the computer to see if that might work.
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I have a 2001 7.3 that almost has everything practically brand new... new hpop, water pump, uvch, gpr, glow plugs, icp sensor, ipr sensor, cps and new turbo pedestal that was leaking oil, well now my truck has a cold start to where it has to be plugged in to start and when it finally does it smokes white pretty bad, misses and sounds like it's jumping around under the hood up until it warms up and revs fine with less white smoke but still a miss!!
Compression on test has been done, and good, fuel pressure is good, but the buzz test when cold shows 123457 muffled and quite and when the truck is warm only 3 and 4 are still muffled and quite? Injectors sticking?? Or just need New injectors!
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I have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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