Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Using Pump To Replace Transmission And Power Steering Fluid
Aug 18, 2017
Across Internet is lot of examples of using pump, usually drill pump or vacuum. It seam to me that drill pump would work good for that job. Pump that attach to battery have limited amount of power and vacuum pump is manual. Look like a excellent device for transmission fluid change. Clearly no drain screw at pan. I do not think I'm fan of disconnecting return line and live empty tranny.
For example here : [URL] .....
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So, I'm replacing the Steering Box today and read an article that said you should replace the pump at the same time. what do you all think?? I have clear access to it now and they are not all that expensive?? Or are the ford one's bullet proof and leave it alone???
I don't have any leaks and it feels ok I guess..just pushing close to 200K on it.
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Just curious what type of power steering fluid should be used in our trucks. What works best?
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My owners manual says to replace the power steering fluid every 3 years regardless of the milage. It was replaced in May 2009 but the Honda dealer says it's contaminated and should be replaced. I'm not due till May 2012. It's driven under normal conditions and driven easy. What to do? Owners manual or dealer report?
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Proud owner here of a '96 3.0L RWD Aerostar Utility Van with about 138k miles, and leaking power steering fluid. At this point I'm replacing fluid from zero every time I have to drive it which is about once a week. I've located the leak and it seems to be coming from the pump/reservoir around the pressure hose. The hose is loose as in i can move it around a bit, but from what I've read, this is normal and the hose is supposed to be like that. I figure that at this mileage, with so much air going through the pump, all the crazy squealing and whining it does even when full, at this point it probably makes sense to replace the whole pump while I'm in there, as opposed to just doing the reservoir. Anyway, I'm planning to do this in a couple of weeks, and have some questions...
1) The pump - I've read on this forum that the best way to go on brand of the pump is Motorcraft.
2) Hoses - I'd like to replace the hoses coming out of the pump while I have this thing all taken apart, but I'm not exactly sure what parts to get. I know one is the pressure and one is the return, but there are variations of each based on the research I've done. The parts on the Napa site have different descriptions like "with switch port", "without switch port" "56in hose" "26in hose", and so on. Which ones I need, specifically the ones connecting directly to the pump? I havent been able to find anything in my research online, in Haynes, or Chiltons manuals.
3) Washers - Whether or not I replace the hoses, should I replace the washers at the connection point? Chilton's seems to recommend replacing them. Will they come with the new pump?
My local auto parts shop has the pulley remover/installer for me to rent so I've already got that squared away. I'm pretty sure I've covered all of my bases otherwise.
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I am trying to use a ford pump to power a Hydro-boost off a diesel pickup, took everything off same truck. Started it up, ran ok for 5 mins & PS pump fluid boils. No PS box in the system, just the Hydro. Seems like the fluid is not getting out of the pump & circulating either. I figure a blocked pump discharge or blockage in the Hydro. I can shoot air backwards thru the hydro, too hot to touch the pressure side. I had the outlet nut off the pump, could I have blocked the discharge when I put it back?
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I've lost all power steering about a week ago. I checked all the lines the return is bring fluid up from the pump and the res is flowing into the pump.
A) should I replace pump?
B) look into other things that could be causing the issue?
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Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
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A few days ago I had a big PS fluid leak. Turned out the return line had been sliced a bit. I had to drive it for a couple days before I could get around to fixing it. The steering is still stiff and the pump whines. Is this an indicator that I need to replace the pump?
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I have a 2003 F150 4.6 with 84,000 miles. Runs fine, but should I change the original trans fluid?
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So I tried to replace my thermostat and housing and the housing bolt snapped off. Ok so I tried to extract that bolt off and the extractor bolt snapped off inside. I am guessing it might just be easiest to replace the water pump now? I am pretty much at the end of my mechanical rope which is short anyhow.
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I have a lexus rx 330. Pump started making noise and low on fluid. We replaced all the belts and new pump. After installing new pump it was leaking from fill cup cap when driving also making a lot of noise on cold start. Mechanic said new pump was bad so we put in another one. Car ran fine as soon as we put it in and bleed good. Following morning again a lot of noise on cold start and noise goes away about 10 minutes but again small amount of fluid leaking from cap on fill cup. I replaced the rubber ring on cap to get a tight seal but again nothing.
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I have a 2003 Explorer Sport and the windshield washer pump is not getting power. Owners manual does not show fuse or relay locations.
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1999 F-150 4.6 4R70W transmission 148,000 miles. My transmission was slipping so I changed fluid and filter. I believe the transmission fluid was changed one other time (I did not find the yellow plug in the pan). Transmission fluid smelled burnt. Added new fluid and Lucas treatment. Turned truck on and the battery light came on. Brief test drive and no change in transmission until almost home and then it would not go into gear. Lights were dim power windows wouldn't work. Reverse works. I assume it is time for a new transmission and the electrical issue is related to the transmission. I use the truck a lot and am leaning towards getting it fixed. I can't swap out transmission myself and would have to take it to a garage.
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I have a 1997 Ford Aerostar rwd with a 3.0 L v6. I would like to know how can I remove the power steering pump. Furthermore, the reason I am changing the power steering pump, is because I am changing the rack and pinon mechanism. Additionally, I found the rack filled with hydraulic fluid. If possible pictures would be a nice addition to your respond.
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I have a 97 ford f150 v6 2wheel drive. I was driving to work when l heard rattling in the engine like something came loose when I stopped to check my transmission fluid was pouring out drained out in 2mins tops. What do you think it could be?
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I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
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My car is in the shop and has a leak at the Power Steering Pump. The rubber O-ring on the Power Steering Pump Solenoid Valve (p/n 4417030120) is leaking fluid. The Solenoid Valve is ok, just the Rubber O-ring is bad, but it looks like you have to buy a complete new Solenoid Valve to get the O-ring (a lotta bucks).
I did find a Lexus Power Steering Pump rebuild kit online at, but I can't see if it includes the solenoid valve o-ring or not. Have to replace their solenoid valve o-ring?
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This weekend I am going to replace my old power steering fluid in my 2002 Kia Sedona mini van. Every where I look on line it tells me to use transmission fluid. Is this right? When they sell power steering fluid why would you use transmission fluid? Also, which type of transmission fluid to use?
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I took my BMW 325i to a local shop to have it checked out. The biggest issues that they found with it were fluid problems. They claimed that both the transmission fluid and the power steering fluid were burned and needed to not only be replaced but also needed to be cleaned with a service that they would provide for a few hundred dollars. If I didn't they warned it could damage the transmission. They weren't lying about the fluid, its old and its dark and it smells burned. My question is how bad is having burned fluid? I've done some research and I know that the actual fluid is damaging and it seems as though just replacing it doesn't quite get rid of the problem. Is there any way I can run some sort of detergent through the transmission to clean out all the burned particles or is the shops information legitimate and buying their cleaning service really the way to go?
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So I have multiple issues that all seem to stem from a power steering leak. According to the dealership, the PS pump is leaking fluid onto the serpentine and timing belts causing them to swell. This in turn has something to do with the AC compressor not working but they wouldn't give me details. When I looked at the clutch wheels on the AC compressor, there seems to be a good amount of rust in between the two wheels. I can't say that I trust the dealership because the original owner was bought out by a larger group that is known to just say "replace everything". I usually do most of my own work on my 95 Tacoma, so I'm no stranger to import v6 motors.
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