Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Using Propane To Find Vacuum Leaks?
Jul 24, 2017
Question. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
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A friend of mine today told me a good way to find vaccum leaks with starter fluid. Lightly spray it over the vacuum lines on an idling engine until the idle speeds up. Where you were spraying when it sped up is where the leak is. Be careful as it is very flammable. [IMG] [URL] .....
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I've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
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Bought this truck earlier this year, and started to notice from time to time a smell in the cab that can only be described as propane. Truck was sound and the windows were down most of the time so I let it go. Probably not smart. With the windows up more often now, what this could be. It comes and goes. My guess is it's somehow coming through the vents, but what the heck is it? Is there anything in a truck that has mercaptan in it?
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My ford's 4x4 will work if I manually lock in the hubs. If i use the auto option it will not engage. I can feel the rear end diff lock when I put it in 4-low so I know the switch is working. I think it is a vacuum actuated system. How to find the leak or diagnose the problem?
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I have an 01 supercab. 5.4 Triton 135k. I have begun to smell coolant the last couple of days. Have seen nothing leaking and truck doesn't run hot.
Will investigate more this weekend. Where to start looking for this. It has to be leaking somewhere. Windows don't fog and the smell is there all the time. I live in florida so don't use much heat.
Not the heater core. Heat works fine and no smell from the vents.
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I have an 2003 f150 4x4, 5.4 king ranch.The brakes dont work very well, they dont go to the floor, but just dont do a whole lot when you step on them. 3 different mechanics have tried to fix it without luck. the last one said it need a anti lock part that costs 1200.oo for the part, i just took it home.
148,000 miles on it and i have put brakes on it and had the rotors turned.
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01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
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How and where to check? This probably has been covered a million times.
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My parents 2000 Explorer is having issues...It started with check engine light...came back to Oxygen sensors...Replaced all 4....light came back...still a couple of same codes...P1151 and P0153...smoked the intake with Evap Leak Detector...have several small vacuum leaks...little at EGR (No EGR codes)...little at TPS (No TPS Codes)...Little at throttle shafts...and some coming from what looks like underneath throttle body....none of these are as much of a concern as the next thing....NOW the trans will not shift out of 1st...unless you manually shift it from Drive to 2nd...then no other gears...Reverse works fine.....
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
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so new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?
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I have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
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I'm working on a 03 Lariat F150 with vac. controlled 4x4 (I'm new to this one). Transfer case works, ft drive shaft turns, but the front axle wont engage. The servo works, and the linkage is tight on the shaft, and the shaft turns back and forth, and the ft axle can be engage manually by working the small lever back and forth with the servo disconnected, but when zip-tied in place it doesn't stay in 4x4, so something is broken, worn out, or disconnected inside the housing.
Also I repositioned the servo back a bit with a spacer to make sure it wasn't a length of travel issue, and is not - the problem is definitely inside - the linkage feels sloppy when manipulated with the servo off.
Since Ive never had one of these apart I thought Id ask first (also a new thing for me), so I'd know what parts to get (I don't live "in town"), and I figger this isn't the first one of these to break. So I am sitting down - what am I in for??? It looks pretty straight forward, but somehow I doubt it is...
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My heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
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How can I find a vacuum leak? I hear hissing from driver side. I used 2 cans of starter spray and on throttle cleaner. No change in rpm.
I'm on the of my Latin. If I pull the throttle short and raise the rpm I hear a loud air soak. But I can't locate it. Can be the egr, lower intake upper intake or fuel interceptor. I begin to hate the car.
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I have 97 4x4 f-150 V6 4.2 litre that in 2wd tries to go into 4wd causing a grinding then a thump. When I put the truck into 4wd there is no grinding or thumping.
I believe one of the vacuum solenoids could be bad. Just was wondering which one would cause it to want to go into 4wd while in 2wd. The left most solenoid looking under the hood is the 4wd and the other with the pink vacuum is the 2wd.
I have no vacuum from the solenoids but from the lines going into them.
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So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
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Looking for the vacuum diagrams for the four wheel drive, where I can find them?
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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