Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Wants To Stall When Coming To Stop
Jul 22, 2013
I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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I own a 2000 f150, 7700 with 199,000 miles, 5.4 eng. In drive with foot on brake, it idles at 600 rps, fairly smooth. When I accelerate from a stop the engine shudders. Ten months ago I had the plugs replaced, last week I bought 8 new coils and I installed them, no change. I removed the down stream o2 sensor from the exhaust, it was as clean as blued gun metal. Can these 2 sensors be cleaned or tested? The service engine lite is not on. List of things to check?
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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I'm getting a CLUNK when coming to a stop with my truck.
If I shut off the overdrive while coming to a stop it doesn't do it. Or if I manually shift it down a gear.
I read on here it could be a U-joint or the yoke or something and maybe something needs greased.
Anyway I crawled under the truck and it looks like I need a special socket to remove the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear end.
What type of socket it this? No grease fittings on my U-joints. What's causing this CLUNK as well?
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I've recently had problems with my truck running 97 f150 4.2L.The latest episode is it stalling when coming to a stop. It will start right back up, I've checked for codes and found none, I have changed the fuel and air filters and I have tested the fuel pressure.(I have a video of the test however I don't know how to upload it.) Key on engine off it pumps up to 30 immediately on the gauge. key on engine running gauge shows a steady 32. I am really at a loss for what to check next. I really need this truck dependable again ASAP my wife is scared to drive it.
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My mom gave me a 2004 f150 lariat with a 5.4l and were having an issue with the engine when coming to a stop the engine wants to stall out and runs like a bag of hammers and sounds like its going to explode then i give it a shot of fuel and it runs fine for a a while and then does it again. I brought it to the local dealer and he said it was either the vct or the cam phaser bank 2 so i changed both and it still does it just wondering before I keep getting intake cam sensor code retarded and a bunch of other codes but we replaced the cam sensor already.
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I have a weird problem that just started concurring. When you approach a stop and the vehicle is almost at 1 or 2 MPH, the pedal pulses and I can hear the ABS buzzing. None of the wheels are slipping, and all my tires are of the correct size & pressure. There is no ABS codes at all. There is no ABS light on either. How can I diagnose? 2004 Heritage.....
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I have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
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Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
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I have strange rubbing and whumping noises coming from underneath my truck. Yesterday I changed the old e-brake and lines, thought it my be rubbing on the wheel. Today I changed the front and rear axle u-joint and rear pinion seal. The front u-joint was ceased and the pinion seal was leaking. I thought this would cure it but the noise is still there , the noise is more pronounced when I make a turn. Besides that the truck runs perfect. This summer I changed all 4 rotors, calipers and pads and ball joints , shocks and muffler. Tomorrow I will jack the front up and check the front, where the noise would coming from.
2001 F150 4X4 7700 ....
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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I am having trouble with my 2001 F-150. Starting yesterday it would not start. At 1st i thought it wa the battery, so i took it off, charged it, put it back in the truck and still no start. There is a clicking noise coming from a relay in the cabin fuse box, disconnected the battery, removed relay to inspect and everything looks good. After plugging it back in, and connecting the battery, the truck still wont start and there is a clicking sound coming from the dash near the radio. Rhis is my work vehicle!!!
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2 questions regarding our 2001 F150 Supercrew. My 2 questions are:
My 2001 Ford F150 Supercrew (5.4L, 230,000 miles)has the check engine light on with the code reader telling me that it is the P0174. The truck would run rough when cold (usually in the mornings) and sometimes it would get close to stalling out when coming to a stop light. So we would quickly put it in park and give it some gas to rev it up a bit. After the truck gets warmed up, it runs great with no hint of the rough idle. Since this all started I have changed out the PCV valve and replaced the PCV hose (including the elbow). I have also replaced the Idle Air Control unit but that didn't really make a difference.
We then experienced a cylinder #4 misfire which we resolved by changing out the cop with a new Motorcraft unit. The misfire went away but we still had the problem of running rough at idle to the point of stalling out at stops when the engine is cold. A few weeks ago we cleaned the MAF sensor and that seemed to work. The truck doesn't run as rough now (when cold) at stop-lights, but occasionally it will still have the loping idle. We cleared the check engine code and it stayed off for about a week before returning.
I don't know what else to check other than trying to see if there is some type of vacuum leak, but I don't have access to a smoke machine nor would I know how or where to hook one up. Removing and cleaning the throttle body would work? What could be causing the trouble, or what I should do to further isolate or troubleshoot the problem? I saw a you-tube video on the F150 intake manifold gasket possibly being the problem and although I hope that isn't the trouble with my truck, if it is then I will have to deal with it. We need the truck to get to work and the car is now due for a registration renewal, but we can't get a California smog certificate with the check engine light on.
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I currently have a 2006 B6 w/ approx. 95k miles on it. A couple months ago I had my catalytic converter replaced at the dealership and then about a month ago my car started having issues with stalling.
Symptoms:
-Car drives normal - no loss of power or anything, but then will randomly stall when coming to a stop or slowing down, taking my foot off of the accelerator. After it stalls the red alternator light comes on. Check engine light comes on and off - lately on most of the time.
-The issue has gotten progressively worse recently, but for the past month it has been inconsistent. Sometimes I can go an entire drive and not experience it and then other times it will stall nonstop. Lately, there have also been a few times where it's taken a few tries to start it, though this is recent as before it restarted perfectly fine.
-Recently, the car has started exhibiting symptoms at highway speeds as well, occasionally brief episodes where it will begin to jerk and shake. Usually stops as pressure is applied to the gas pedal.
-Also, have issues with the parking brake... the switch seems to have randomly broken in the center (no clue how) and I keep getting a parking brake fault. Not sure if this is related or an entirely separate issue.
I took the car to a very reputable independent VW/Audi shop and after several days they still have been unable to locate the issue. Based on the codes the MIL was sending the first visit, they replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and the cam position sender. Neither fixed the problem. So, now I have to decide where to go from here... They took off the labor and only charged me for the parts.
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I am the original owner of a 1993 Nissan Altima. My mechanic states that the air intake (part # 165751E400 "air duct")has dry rotted. He put some silicone hoping that would seal it but it did not work. The part is no longer available from Nissan. The car runs very rough and wants to stall when coming to a stop. It also smells like gasoline in the cabin and the gas mileage is terrible 17 mpg. I have tried to find someone who could custom make a new hose with no luck. My mechanic stated that pulling one from a used car would have the same problem. What other options are available? The hose is about 8 inches long and about 3-4 inches diameter. It has other small hoses that attached to it. Do I throw away an otherwise reliable car?
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I have a 97 F150 with a 4.2. It has started to surge or stall out when I slow down sometimes. It doesn't do this all the time. I replaced the fuel filter about 2 mths ago and replaced the fuel pressure regulator then also. Would the tps have anything to do with it? I haven't had a scan done yet. Thought I would try here first because at one time someone has removed the two cats and the check engine is on all the time.
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