Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Started Rattling From The Exhaust
Apr 4, 2012
1997 F150... Truck has slowly started getting worse and worse performance. About 3 weeks ago the truck started rattling from the exhaust, Towing my trailer the other day, the truck had NO power, I thought it was the plugs, so I replaced them.
Now the rattle is worse (no lose heat shields). I am blowing the little tubes off the drivers side exhaust manifold, the ones that go to the DPFE sensor.
Did I mention, that the truck has no power, sluggish, now I am dumping hot exhaust fumes into the engine compartment. Still got the rattle underneath.
I think the cat is plugged up on the drivers side. (which probably explains all my symptoms)
Any other reason for the rattle literally coming from the drivers side cat and the little tubes being blown off?
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We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
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Sometimes the truck is hard to get started and to keep running, Once it warms up it will run fine. The next time it is started it will start fine but when you are going down the road if I try to accelerate it will start backfiring and not pick up any speed. I am getting a lean code on both banks. I have changed the IAC, the throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor. 2002 F150 with 6 cyl
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
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I've got a 97 f150 4.6 that has randomly started missing over the last month. It has started to get more frequent and codes are showing a misfire on both cylinder 1 and 8. Both of these cylinders run off the same coil pack. I'm thinking its the coil? The plugs and wires, motocraft, have about 3k on them and the truck runs great otherwise. I just don't know how common a coil would cause this or if they would act intermittent like this.
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I bought a 01 F150 with the 5.4 motor in it not much over a year ago. The truck needed quite a few things but the price was right. I have been dreading fixing one issue I knew about when I bought the truck. I figured I would ask here before contemplating taking my 12 year old truck to ford.
I have done quite a bit of reading about the airbag codes and in some cases people suggested the passenger switch led can burn out causing the light to occur. Here's what I know,
The truck has not been in a accident. I bought it from the owners son who only knew where to put gas in the truck. The father took care of the truck and he assured me it was not accident related for what it's worth.
Upon start up there are no flashes of the airbag light. From the time the key is turned ign. on to the time I shut the truck off it is a solid light. Early this spring I soldered a new led in the passenger on/ off switch with no change. I wonder if the switch is bad but I did not see a proper way to test it.
A airbag light code reader would seem to possibility but I have not seen any auto-part stores that borrow that type and my obd2 scanner cannot pull those codes. Where to start with troubleshooting?
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2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
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I have a 2000 f150 4x2 5.4 168k... Check engine came on,started shaking, weather was really cold. RPM would be a little high then low then back up. Especially when I turned on heater. Felt like truck would die but never does nor does it have issue starting.
So far, I have replaced two oxygen sensors inside engine,all coils, spark plugs, fuel filter, had injectors cleaned, intake cleaned. Truck runs better but, light came on a day later again. I can feel the tiniest of shaking going on and, cold mornings still make RPMS a little unstable. I was driving truck on highway at about 60 mph when a slight tug was felt and Truck check engine came on. I feel truck heavy, once it warms up completely, a little lighter.
Codes came up at auto zone as P1151
But I'm running out of options and frankly, money to fix this truck.
Checked the MAF and looked okay.
I'm with minimal skills.
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1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
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I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 5.4 Triton with 165k miles. I did invest in a code reader. It started missing and code P0302 came up along with P0171. Put new coil on #2 and truck ran fine for a few days. Then it started to run rough again. Shaking, Idle rough, no power and CEL came on again. This time code P0171. I changed out fuel filter to no avail. My next step was to start looking for vacuum leaks. As I'm searching, All I am finding is trucks with this problem also get P0174 code. My question is since I am only getting lean on one bank does that pretty much eliminate things like MAF or the famous elbow vacuum leak and make something that only affects one bank like an O2 sensor on CAT more likely?
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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When I start my truck in the mornings. In 20 seconds + -, there an exhaust "pop". I'm assuming its to warm up the turbos. The manual says to warm them up before driving. The engine is an engineering marvel, unlike my Cub Cadet that has a plastic hose to push in the oil drain and the filter don't have a hole in the metal frame for the oil to run into the catch basin. I hope that engineer dies a slow painful death
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My wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
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I have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
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My air conditioning compressor is rattling and grinding. I am trying to determine if I need a whole new unit or just a clutch assy. I can say this, when running it's rattling, but when the clutch engages, it clears up.
Would I be right in assessing it's the clutch? 1998 250 5.4 .....
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At the above speeds my truck has a rattle/ticking. I think its the cats but I'm not sure. I checked all the obvious like the heat shields and stuff. The truck has 118000 miles on it and has been in So. Cal. its whole life.
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I have a 2003 Explorer.... 4wd..... and here's my story.. I had a tire blow out (front driver side) and I took it to a tire chain to get it replaced (it was the closest thing to where it happened and I had to get to work)
After the tire was replaced, the truck started to rumble in the front and seemed like the brake was being pressed while I was driving. I called the chain tire store and told them my truck was not doing this prior to them replacing the tire. They said it was fine because I was riding on a better tread tire and the remaining tires were worn.... (okay..maybe so?)
I drive 80 miles one way to work....the whole way there...rumbling and this 'brake applied' feeling. Worked my shift...drove the 80 miles back home...same thing.
Took truck back to store....they said that it was the Front Drive Shaft had cracked at the Transfer case.... I've asked a few people and they think it's just the ABS still locked because I was traveling a high rate of speed when my tire went out. I think the tire store chain screwed up when they replaced the tire....
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I have a 94 ranger 4L. I am looking for a more loud exhaust sound in/outside the truck and at idle. I have had a cherry bomb turbo on it and it was ok but not loud enough for my liking. I just picked up a flowmaster 40 2 days ago and it sounds good but again just not loud enough for my taste and kinda a lot more. I was looking for a louder muffler that is not a glasspack and would like to stay under like 80 or so.
I also thought about getting a high flow cat which i think might make some more sound but was not sure. Im running the stock pipe which is 2" and end in back of the wheel on the right. I look at the Hooker Headers Maximum Flow Muffler which i thought would be louder b/c it's more straight through the muffler so it would put off more sound better. What would u recommend for something more loud ?
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