Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Stalls Out In Gear But Not In Park
Sep 19, 2013
I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
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I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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Last two weeks I have had my truck randomly not want to start while in park. If I shift to neutral it has so far started up everytime, but as of today I was at work at a security gate that sits at the bottom of a mild to moderate incline and the moment after I had put the truck in park and lift off of the brakes the truck clicks moves forward making a clicking sound life the parking prawl is not fully engaging or something.
So doing some google searching the closest answer come up with is that its a failing/out of adjustment Transmission Range Sensor. Does this sound right? I had the tranny rebuilt last year and only have put on 7,500 to 10,000 miles so its not a matter of age since it looks like the sensor was replaced at that time.
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I have a 01 F150. I just turned it on and everything was fine it turns on lights turn on but when I tried to get out of the garage I would not shift. Windows won't go down . I am guessing it's something electrical .
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If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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I have a 1997 forkd F150 with a 4.6L Romeo engine. I have recently rebuilt the engine and now since it is put back together I am having a issues that i cannot pin point. When the truck is running and in gear my RPM drop to around 500 or below and my oil pressure drops and comes back up when the rpm's come back up this an intermittent problem and I have replaced the IAC valve and every once in a while i get a P0401 code for the exhaust recirculation. I think I am loosing some kind of vacuum. It was not doing this when I tore into the truck. It seems to be running okay not hesitation.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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1999 f150 5.4 it's been over 3 months since It happened I hit a pretty big mud hole and right after it starts bogging and running rough and won't drive I made it home and second and I've been driving it around town in second gear since. I've been trying different things since it happened, It runs rough in drive, reverse, neutral, and first (towing gear) but revs up just fine in second (towing gear).
So far I've
- Checked all fuses
- Changed plugs checks coil packs
- Dropped pan changed tranny fluid and filter
I broke a heater core line so I replaced the intake manifold and got a good look at everything and cleaned it out
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked all connections
- Checked all vacuum hoses
- Replaced maf sensor
- Pulled the codes but I don't have them handy.
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My truck gear shift is stuck in Park (console type). I have been reading threads that discuss potential causes such as blown fuses, bad brake switch, bad brake shift interlock actuator, and even ignition switch. All fuses are okay. Before I try to get into all the other possibilities, I have a question around what the local auto parts worker suggested. He said that there is a small plastic piece that may have slipped down interfering with gear movement. This could make sense, especially since the white manual release lever doesn't seem to be moving.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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Reverse band broke in my C4, I took it apart enough to get the rear band out and then reassembled. Everything to my knowledge was seated correctly and the front pump seated flush with the case when I reinstalled (which is supposedly a sign that it is all seated correctly). I adjusted the bands to spec and replaced the vacuum modulator and torque converter. These were the only things replaced besides the reverse/low band. Vac modulator was replaced to original (yellow band) as I was running an adjustable before. TC was replaced just because I did not the last time I had the trans rebuilt in 2003....decided to go ahead and R&R.
I got everything assembled, filled up with fluid and no leaks. I start it up and once i finished topping it off, the truck moves forward in every gear... including park! It also seems that I'm missing a shift detent. I have P, R, N, D, 2 but no 1. I disconnected the shift linkage and tried manually shifting from the trans and have the same issue.
I did not open up the valve body, just unbolted and replaced. When you start it up, it doesn't jump forward (while in park) but when you rev it up it sounds like the motor is under load. I've consulted my Haynes C4 book and an extensive google search and no way...
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota V8 (automatic) with about 140k and live in Vermont. Recently, my truck will konk out while I am sitting at a red light. As I'm sitting there, the RPM's keep going down below 700, until finally stalling out completely. When I shift into Park/Neutral then turn ignition, it will start right back up again. To get around this, I have been shifting into Neutral while I wait at the light, then back into Drive when it turns green. I have recently installed a new battery and exhaust system. I am wondering if this is occurring because of worn plugs, a dirty air filter, cracked vacuum hose, or bad alternator?
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Lately when I am coming to a stop and roll up to a stoplight/sign in gear the rpms drop too much and it stalls. I let the clutch back out and it starts back, but will stall again if I coast in gear again.
If I just push in the clutch without the rpm's coming up like to change gears it doesn't stall, only when I downshift when stopping and then once I push in the clutch the rpms drop and don't recover.
Truck runs great otherwise, new motorcraft icp and cps doesn't work. Thinking maybe ipr, but idk. I can rev it in neutral and it doesn't stall only when it's under load coasting, it's like the injectors don't recover from being off while coasting in gear.
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2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
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