Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Sat Higher In Front End And Caster / Camber Way Out
Aug 14, 2012
ok, I have an 02 f-150 4x4 that I did the brakes, shocks, and inner and outer tie rod ends. When I was done, the truck sat higher in the front end and the caster/camber was way out. bottom of tire sits way in. Is this just and adjustment to the tie rods, or what. The old rod ends were pretty bad. Could this be the result of an alignment tech setting caster way out to account for the bad ball joints?
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I have an 02 f150 2WD with a "leveling" kit. It was on the truck when I bought it. However, the front sets noticeably higher than the rear. The rear has lifting blocks, while the front has the lifted spindles as well as the coil spring spacers. At least I think they are spacers. I had to replace lower control arm bushings a while back, and there were black plastic rings on top of the springs. Can I remove the spacers? If I can, I plan on doing that and replacing the rear blocks with whatever I need to get the stance back. I like the height of the truck now, just hate the front being higher than the rear. I do pull my boat with it.
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If I even fart in my truck, there is a jingling underneath. I know my ball bearings need to be replaced. But, what the noise is. It sound like loose change in my pocket. I can't describe it any better.
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Have a 1998 F-150....heard a strange noise coming from the front passenger side of the truck. Parked and turned the wheel and heard something fall off. It appears to be a shield of some sort.
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I have an f350 and it came with the snow plow package, does this make the front end of the truck sit higher? I was thinking about getting a leveling kit for it but when i measured there is only about 1 inch difference between the front and back.
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My ac seems to get cooler at higher rpms. I looked online and it appears to be the orifice tube...
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Sunday afternoon I noticed my 97 F-150 4.2 5-Speed manual had a higher idle. When the AC compressor kicks in, the motor revs up higher than normal for about 4 secs then comes down a little. If you barely press the accelerator, I mean just gently touch it, the motor revs up for 4 secs. Dont have a tach, but just idling in neutral, is about 150 rpms more, and when AC compressor kicks in, rpms jump about 300 rpms i assume. Maybe vacuum, IAC??? Plugs, wires, and normal tune up done about 2400 miles ago.
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I am running fk coils, and for some reason the front driver side camber is -1.2 and it won't adjust at all. The passenger side is -2.2 and won't adjust. I was told that the the R's oem camber can be adjusted up to -1.7.
I have no camber kits on the car. I told my Mechanic why the camber doesn't adjust. He told me that he over looked everything and that he didnt see anything wrong.
I had my front shocks replaced because they were blown. It bothers me how one side has -1 more camber than the other side. I am thinking about buying camber kit because of this problem I'm having.
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My car is bagged with the airlift front struts. wondering if there is any way to get more camber in the front without the performance struts.
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I called 2 VW dealerships but they couldn't give me an answer on how much adjustment for camber is possible. I did the search but only found rear camber adjustment info.
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I have 2015 Rc350 F, with 13k miles on it and my right Front Camber Ball Joint is leaking greasy oil. Do I need to replace this or can this be covered under warranty? I have lowered springs on which I don't think has affected the camber ball.
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I am in the process of trying to chase down a vacuum leak on my 2003 F150 with the 5.4. I have checked all lines and cannot find it. I decided to check the long term fuel trim and noticed that my bank 1 is slightly higher than bank 2 (screenshot attached). Is this enough to assume the leak is on the bank 1 side?
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When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
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2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
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What are the parts of the truck that should be greased? I'm about to do a front, transfer and rear differential fluid change..
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I have a buddy that has a 1998 f150 4x4 with 4.6l and 332836 km on it. It will go in to reverse but will not go in to drive at all. Is his transmission shot? Or is there anyway to test it to find out what the problem is.
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
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1999 f150 4x4 the wife used my truck and had to use the 4wheel to back the truck up, now the truck is stuck in 4low.
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A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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