Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Refuses To Move Off Of 12 Mpg / Terrible Gas Mileage
May 6, 2014
Why I am getting such terrible gas mileage? The truck refuses to move off of 12 mpg. I made a 500 mile trip half of it at 70 mph running 2100 rpm. And when I filled up I calculated out 11.3 mpg. After that fill up hopped on the interstate and was running around 85 @ 2600 rpm expecting my mileage to drop even lower. Then i was on two lane hwy again constantly passing people and it only dropped to 11.1 mpg. Now no matter how easy I drive or how hard I drive it will not move over 12 mpg. Whether the tank is 100% hwy or 50/50. Its a 5 spd manual 4x4 with no modifications running the 4.6 v8. I just swapped air filters to a K&N and still no change.
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We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
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I just bought a 2003 Tacoma 2.4l engine and it has terrible gas mileage.I haven't checked the numbers yet, drive for but it cost medrive for 2 hours. Where do I start looking? The air filter is clean, the tires have plenty of air.
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I have a 2000 F150 4WD 5.4 running Extremely rich to bank one. The O2 sensors for bank 1 are reading lean(0-50 mV) Bank two is completely unaffected. New plugs in Bank one, 3 new coils in bank one, all pvc lines checked with good vacuum. Previous codes : P0171, P0301-3. The Truck will barely move. Would a small leak up stream of the O2 sensors cause this?
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I have a 2002 F-150 and started making terrible noise when turned on heat/ac. The fan cage was full of acorns and pieces of insulation in it. How can the squirrels get in there? I have looked and see no entrance, maybe just don't know where to look.
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I have recently acquired a 1997 F250 LD (same body as the 150)the exhaust system is screwed(currently rebuilding it due to some IDIOT trying to cut out the cats with a grinder and cutoff wheel) and it won't idle (runs alright with a little finessing of the throttle) but after I get the exhaust rebuilt to where the O2 sensors get the proper flow I was going to clean the IAC valve but was wondering if the exhaust not feeding right would cause idle issues a well. Put things in a nutshell...the truck will run but will not idle. IAC Probs, Exhaust Probs, or combination of both??
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I have an 03 F-150 XLT with the 6 disc changer, and I can't get the dang thing to eject. It plays most of the cds fine (sometimes it won't play a certain couple of the six that are in the changer, and reads "CD ERROR" after trying to play the disc for a moment) but it refuses to eject any of the discs. It pushes them out just a little bit and then errors. I've attempted to pull the disc out once its pushed itself out a little, but it won't release them.
I then have to mess with it for several minutes to get it to retake the disc and quit pushing it out again, and then a few more to quit erroring when I change it to disc. I've tried to disconnect the battery (I read in a forum that that sometimes works) but to no avail. I know its a frequent issue with these. I figure I can pull the stereo out and take it apart to get the discs, but how can I fix the issue for good?
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The Problem(s):
[1]My car burns about 4 qt's of oil every 5,000 miles. I am constantly battling to keep the dipstick properly soaked.
[2]I bought the vehicle 8 months ago, at the time I was getting about 28 mpg cty 34-36hwy. Now I get about 21 or 22 mpg cty and lucky to get 25hwy . I know it's winter but should I be seeing this kind of a loss? I am not using the heat THAT often, or atleast not often enough to cause such a decline in mpg.
[3]The first thing I did when I bought the car was get an oil change. I took it to a non VW dealer and requested synthetic, the IDIOT monkey's did not grant my request they put their bulk trash in my car and 3 days later the oil was two qts low and darker than coal. I immediately took it to a smaller shop who changed the filter and put Syntec in. What I want too know is should I be using a different oil? Could the monkeys mistake be responsible for the current oil consumption?
How do I know if my turbo gasket(s) are bad? Anything else I could do to improve economy?I use 93octane(w/o ethanol) My oil is Syntec 5W-30.
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So, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
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Here's the story and unfortunately no happy ending so my VW started rubbing on the front right side a lot, causing my tires to rip on the front right end. After a while of sitting in the garage i finally decided to go and get a new tire for the car
on the way to the tire shop i noticed some very weird squeaking, i figured it was from the spare tire but it continued even on the new tire. That same night heading to the gym, the R started jerking while driving, almost as if i was pressing the brakes while driving
eventually the car just locks all the tires out of no where, i barely manage to pull into a side street and i could not even make it more than 4 feet from the curb forward. A friend of mine stopped by that saw me, he pulled a cable that seemed to have been wrapped around my axle, said it might of been causing the problem. As i drove away, maybe half a mile more, the car locks up entirely again, this time unable to even get to the side of the street it locked up completely in the middle of an intersection. now here is where it gets really strange. Even in neutral the car refuses to go forward, it was on a hill, in neutral and the car refused to move. So i attempted to push it a little, in drive, i pushed on the gas. it almost feels like the car is setting up for launch control, like the brakes are being held down and it moves about 6-10 feet and grinds to a halt, same in reverse. It took us almost 20 minutes to get it up on a trailer and another 20 to get it into the garage just going 2 steps forward and 1 back the whole time.
I have heard anywhere from transmission to drive train, to transfer boxes and axles to even a warped rotor causing this. Where to start?
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
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I have a 91 Ranger 4cyl. Tune up about 2 months ago. Mileage about 178,000. When the temperature gets below about 45 degrees, the truck will not start. It cranks like the battery has plenty of juice but refuses to start. Once the temp warms up, the truck will start first crank.
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I just bought a 2002 f150 7700 series and how to improve the gas mileage. i was thinking about putting in a performance chip.
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My speedometer has not been working for months now and it really hasn't bothered me as I go by RPMs, but I am going to make a long trip in a few weeks and I wanted to try to get this fixed.
The speedometer flips over to 100 mph and rest on the opposite side as it should. When I accelerate it does not move until I get over about 35 mph where it will then flip to 86 mph. It will slowly move to 82 mph as I accelerate up until 75, where it will then no longer change. Every once in a while it will start working when I start the truck up, or when I am driving down the road. It has before, within a 30 minute time frame, started working and stopped working 6 times. Currently my ABS light is on, but it has been on long before this started occurring. Every other gauge on my dash works.
I drive a 5 speed manual V6 2003 Ford F150.
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1997 ford f150 automatic 4x4 was perfectly fine till today ,no slipping no warning nothing.pulled in the driveway and about 30 minutes later had to run out.the truck tried and pulled like it wanted to go while in drive but wouldn't.then i tried it in reverse and went fine like nothing is wrong.i put it back into drive accelerated for a minute then it went for about 15 miles.while at a red light tried to go and it wouldnt move but was able to put it in reverse to back out of the lane.so i had it tow roped back home and halfway there while accelerated about 10 miles into it it caught and ran fine till i slowed down.at home i changed the tranny filter and fluid.no foul smell,the fluid looked perfect,no metal nothing in the tranny pan,i tried to put it in 2wd and 4wd to see if it would go and still did nothing.after accelerating the gas a minute it pulled and tried to move forward but nothing.
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2002 F-150 4x4 super crew w/5.4..So I've got the P0136 code, horrible fuel mileage (around 7 mpg just driving to work without hitting very many lights) and the check engine light comes on intermittently, and I get that code. I have borrowed my friends scanner ("Determionator Scan System") and I can see the live data from the 02 sensors. Today I drove around for a while and watched the scanner and the H02 data, and the downstream sensor on bank 1 shows at most, .09 volts, and it also says its detecting a lean mixture. The code P0136 is for this sensor in particular, and I have heard that an 02 sensor should be around 1 volt. The downstream sensor on the drivers side showed around .75 volts at max.
I believe that it is working correctly, or close to it, and I do not get a code for that sensor. So my question is, is the downstream sensor on the passenger side (bank 1) causing the P0136 code and the poor fuel mileage? also, could an exhaust leak cause the sensor to throw a code and not be bad at all? I do have some very minor exhaust leaks, on both sides of the truck..I'm leaning towards replacing that one 02 sensor. The wires and plug connection to that sensor look fine, plus I would think that if there was a bad wire/connection it would not register any voltage at all.. I have to add, the truck runs fine overall after I replaced the intake manifolds last week. It does still idle high, around 1,000 rpm, after coasting to a stop, then after a few seconds goes back down to a normal idle of around 650 rpm. but idles normal upon starting or in park.
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I have an 04 F150 Heritage. For the last couple of months the odometer has been acting funny. Sometimes the LEDs will light up and display the mileage but most of the time it will not. When it does I can tell that it is still adding up the miles so that part is working . The problem seems to be in the LED readout.
One mechanic told me that I would have to take out my entire display and send it off for repair. The repairs could cause my odometer to go back to 0. This doesn't seem right to me.
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My Taurus has developed a problem where it refuses to start. When I try to start it, it just cranks over and over and over. I keep trying till the battery starts getting weak. I charge up the battery and then try it again with no luck. A neighbor suggested I get a piece of lumber and gently pound on the gas tank suggesting it might be a stuck fuel pump problem [whatever that means!]. Actually it worked once but after I drove the car all day doing errands the next morning was the same problem. That was three weeks ago.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
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I have been looking around on here for an answer and I can't find exactly what I am looking for. My key is worn down and will not easily move. My spare key is like new and works great. I have a spare that doesn't have a chip in it and it will turn over the engine but not fire it up. Even with the old key and the non chip key touching together at the switch, the truck will not fire up. How does this set up work and can I remove the chip from the old key and attach it to the no chip key.
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