Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Only Starts After Being Jumped - No Gauges
Apr 25, 2017
Ran for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
View 8 RepliesRan for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
View 8 RepliesI am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
View 1 RepliesDad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
The 1997 Saturn SC2 is new to me. It was delivered to my home after purchase and died. The car had been sitting for a while and was suggested by previous owner that it was the battery. After having charged the battery, she ran for about 5 mins and stopped. I was also informed that the fuel line sometimes would disconnect, but that is not the case now.
View 1 RepliesI started having trouble with the truck only starting in neutral and it was a trick to get it to start even then. I bought a new range sensor, bolted her up (with alignment marks in neutral) and she's still doing the same thing.
View 8 RepliesTransmission problems 2002 f150 lariat... Once I get up to about 50 mph the truck starts jerking around..
View 2 RepliesI went to walmart and let the engine run for a while and shut it off. It would not start until it cools off. Now that its cool it starts fine. It just started doing it. Come to think of it i did get some gas in it.
View 2 RepliesIf I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
View 14 RepliesWe just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
View 7 RepliesMechanics cannot find out why it occasionally does not start and has to be jumped off. If left not driven for a day walk out next morning try to start and it has to be jumped off. It only has 8,000 miles on it. 2013 Ford F150
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 F150 with a 5.4 auto 4X4. All four of the guages are on the left side of the instrument cluster. Neither one of the 4 work. The gas gauge, the amp meter, the oil pressure, and temp gauge work. the all four just stay all the way down. I've checked all the fuses and the sending units. ONly fuse position number 6 and 30 pertain to the cluster. I took the cluster out too make sure it was plugged in and it was. I know there is gas in it and I know the oil pump is working.
View 4 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 F150 Regular Cab Work Series with the 4.2 V6 4x4 and an automatic transmission. It has what seems to be an electrical issue where the speedometer and gauges come in and out seemingly at random. All of my fuses are good with the exception of Fuse 1 in the fuse box under the steering wheel, which will blow every time I put a new one in. It seems like there is a short in the wiring for the radio? However Fuse 1 is supposed to control only the audio, and I'm not sure why that would be an issue with the gauges.
When they come on, everything seems to work just fine. Also, even when they go out and I have the headlights on, both the gauges and the car stereo will be backlit with the green glow.
When I turn put the key in the run position, the gauges will come on and remain on for a random amount of time after I start the engine, then will go out and come on at random. When the gauges go out so will my check engine light (code P0460).
I have an F 150 2002 Trition V-8. I always thought I knew how to read an instrument panel on a vehicle but after being put down by my Ford, I have to rethink this knowledge.
I have noticed over the past 4 years that my volt meter guage on the instrument panel always stayed in the same place whether the motor was running or just the key in the on position. I noticed that a little battery icon kept coming on and going out yesterday. I read the owner's manual and it said something like this indicates your battery is not taking a charge correctly. Well why has the guage not told me anything. Well the alternator has quit but yet and still the guage is still showing me all is well.
I ask a Ford dealer service dept. about this and they do not have a clue. All they tell me is people do not pay attention to the guage but when the light comes on they need. They also said the gauge would work when everything shuts down, but man! I don't need it to work then. I know it's broken when that happens. It quits running.
What is the purpose of the gauge sitting there all shiny and pretty if it is not going to say anything other than "HEY MAN! I am just here looking pretty and taking up space".
I have looked at other trucks and they do the same thing. Nothing .. What is going on with this gauge which undoubtedly does nothing?
I was driving my sons 99 f250, 7.3, today, pulled into a friends driveway, put the truck into park, turned it off and got out. 5 minutes later out of nowhere the truck jumped out of park into reverse like someone was in it stomping on the gas then the breaks then the gas, then the breaks. This truck took off in reverse with such force if there was someone behind it they would have been seriously hurt. I was parked on completely flat ground. While this was happening it sounded like it was trying to start and clicking very loud. It is an automatic.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
View 14 RepliesI am working on my son's 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4/6L truck. He was driving it when the gauges and the tach stopped working. I replaced the cluster and it still blows the fuses. The five amp fuse that is specifically for the cluster doesn't blow. It is a twenty five amp fuse that also power the overdrive circuit, etc.
After replacing the gauge cluster I installed a new fuse and the overdrive button on the shifter started smoking. Where I could get a wiring diagram of this circuit so I can see how it is wired.
1997 Chevy C2500 silverado... Ok, so when i go to turn my truck on she'll sit there and chug as it starts. usually a few seconds and then roars up just fine. However I've noticed a couple of distinct things. 1. when it does start i see a second or three of black exhaust come from the tail pipe. 2. if its been started recently. IE within 24 hrs it has problems. but if i leave it over a weekend then the first start has no problems. 3. Last weekend we replaced the Fuel filter and the first few starts there was significantly less problems starting but after 5 starts its back to doing it again.
I checked and the fuel pump does work, I've tried changing the fuel filter ( #2 above), and put sea foam into the gas tank hoping to clean out any gunk in the lines somewhere. It does turn on and when it does it runs great so i know its not having electrical problems as well as the alternator is charging like normal.
Im about to take it in for an oil change and see if that does anything, and I'm praying its not a clog in the Catylitic converter.
Trucks been running perfect for 11,000 miles atleast. its last issue was a bad turbo but that was my fault. No issues whatsoever since. 10 miles down the road from work last night truck had a slight miss in between 55-60 for four or five seconds, I put the pedal down and brought it up to 75 or so just to see if it was my imagination and it felt fine so i wrote it off. It ran fine to the house we're working on i wanted to check on before I got home.
Parked it, it idled down to 650 before it came back up to 750 and it never does that and sounded different then it usually does. so i felt something was definitely up. i shut it off, was at the house about a half hour before i decided to head home, started and ran fine, three miles down the road the slight miss came back, it seemed to go away if i got on it pretty good and when i let off but just cruising with slight throttle it had the slight miss.
Got to my road where i had to slow down and turn and it idled down and died. I coasted over, unplugged the icp sensor and it cranked for 10 seconds or so and lazily came back to life. I got it home running decent and parked it. Scanned it with my old super chips tuner and it came up with a p0340 camshaft position code.
Matched my symptoms i felt so this morning i decided id go back to work and grab my spare out of my wrecked truck. truck started and idled perfect. made it to the end of my driveway before the miss came back and then it just died. took the car to work, grabbed my spare camshaft sensor and my maximus scanner, came home scanned it, no returning p0340 cam code but i swapped the camshaft sensor anyway and watched icp and ipr data, the ipr voltage is where it should be and rises while cranking while cranking.
ICP is climbing to almost 3,200 psi and it will begin to run when it peaks out. she'll fire for 45 seconds after 25 seconds of cranking or so and then it'll just die. if it sits for a few minutes it takes a few seconds of cranking before ICP will come off of 0. I've come to the conclusion that it is making high pressure oil it is just dumping it as fast as it can make it. I changed the ipr out because that can do it, it didn't change anything so I'm on to believing an injector is dumping it as fast as possible.
Is it possible for something to come undone inside the injector to make it dump high pressure oil or will a bad o ring cause this? i'm leaning towards a failing injector as when it does fire and run its definitely misfiring and i just put new o rings on them when i swapped them over from my wrecked truck but that was like 45,000 miles ago as well..
I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
View 3 RepliesSo I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
So, I don't use my F150 too much and an animal made a nest int the intake tract and the nest material (chewed up air filter) got sucked in the throttle body all the way to IAC valve. So I thought I cleaned everything out, even got a new IAC. It starts now but just dies. I didn't remove the throttle body, should I? Where else do you think I could I find this stuff?
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