Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Dies At Stop While In Gear - Code P0443
Jul 21, 2012
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 with the 4.6L auto trans 189,000 miles
Ok.. there was no problems until the other day when I unplugged the positive side of the battery to replace it's clamp. I Put the new one on and drove to the store but when I came to a stop, the rpm's dropped to 0 and the truck died. I restarted it and every time I would come to a stop it would die unless I give it a little gas also if I start the truck and leave it in park it idles fine until I give it some gas then let off.. the idle drops and dies! If I give it a little steady gas the idle will return to normal.
The check engine light works fine but never once lit up because of this problem! I used a code scanner and if the truck was off and the key forward, it would have no codes. With it running it had the code P0443. I found and replaced a blown fuse and still have the same problem but it reads no codes at anytime. I checked all the vacuum hoses and there seems to be no leaks and the mass airflow sensor looks clean. I have allot of miles but it has been taken care of well and has had a ton of parts replaced over the last few years.
I am wondering why this happened out of the blue and If there is something I am missing that I should be looking at. I don't want to replace the purge control valve if thats not the problem.
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
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Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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I bought a 97 F150 4x4 from a guy who had left it to die after the tranny went out. I worked a good portion of the day getting the tranny out, but the truck has another issue. It was manufactured with a 4.6. PO blew her up and put in what he said was a used 5.4 with 88K miles on it. It idles really good and sounds great until you touch the accelerator. It nearly dies then rev's high. I put fluid in the tranny and it wouldn't move in forward but would in reverse. Same thing in gear. Touch the pedal and it nearly dies then revs high!
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2003 F150 5.4l Super Crew. 40k miles. Current service.
About a year ago I ran out of gas on a hill, this is when my strange problem started. Since then I have ran out of gas at least two other times, but both times the tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 on the gauge and only took 8-10 gallons to fill up, so the tank was far from empty! Both times. after I put a gallon or two in, the truck started right up and ran fine. I have gone long trips and ran the tank down to near empty (light on not really empty) and the truck had no problems. But every now and then between 1/4 and 1/2 it just dies and will not start until I put a gallon or two in the tank.
So today, at about a half a tank, the truck dies. I call for the tow service and when the tow truck driver gets there I explain what has been going on. He jumps in the drivers seat and works his magic on the ignition. I don't know exactly what he did but he turned the key to on for like 10 seconds, removed the key, put it back in, turned it to AC.... and so on, obviously ran a clear code or something.... then he turns it over and it fires right up, this is without adding any fuel!
He said that there may have been an air bubble in the line when I ran out of gas before and the computer code needed to be cleared. Is the tow truck guy right? am i in the clear here or do i need to started checking fuel pressure, pumps, filters and so on?
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
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97 F150 4.6 Vin 6, 5-Speed Trans, 200,000mi, Rebuilt recently. I was on my way to get my truck smogged, but she threw a code, P0171. I read somewhere to clean the throttle body elbow, which I did (needed to do it anyway). After I had everything put back together, I start her, and it's rough and immediately dies. If I keep the RPM's at about 1.5k for a minute, then let off, the truck will run fine for about 30-45 seconds, then die again. I just replaced my IAC and the problem persists.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 210000 miles. The truck wants to stall when coming to a stop. I have noticed this from a higher speed and more when at operating temp. The truck runs great and idles at a stop great, but when coming to the stop the rpms drop to300 or so then it catches itself and revs up. I have cleaned the maf sensor the iac and checked throttle body all seem to be in working order and no obvious vacuum leaks.
My power steering pump is going and it's time to change plugs, but don't believe these would only effect the truck at braking. Have heard maybe torque converter is stuck this does make sense cause usually happens after getting out of first gear. Would changing the fluid solve this or should i look at sensors? Fluid starting to turn slight brown probably been in there 80000 miles.
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I own a 2000 f150, 7700 with 199,000 miles, 5.4 eng. In drive with foot on brake, it idles at 600 rps, fairly smooth. When I accelerate from a stop the engine shudders. Ten months ago I had the plugs replaced, last week I bought 8 new coils and I installed them, no change. I removed the down stream o2 sensor from the exhaust, it was as clean as blued gun metal. Can these 2 sensors be cleaned or tested? The service engine lite is not on. List of things to check?
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I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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I was involved in a light accident over the weekend. I was hit in the rear by a Prius which didn't do body damage except for the 7 blade harness for my trailer towing. But, now the truck has a random misfire code. You can feel the truck jerk when you go up any grade. We changed the fuel filter and dumped in some cleaner already. One guy says its fuel and one thinks its coils. It is a 2003 F150 extended cab 5.4 with a nearly new motor. The truck has about 175xxx on it and I have had it for about 40xxx. I have not changed coils. We did check the inertia switch on the passenger side and it was not tripped.
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Truck had a rich on bank 2 code about a month ago, I cleared it and the service engine light stayed off for quite some time.
Last friday on the way home from work the truck started shaking badly right from idle, and at one point on the freeway the service engine started flashing. I couldn't pull over as I was on a bridge but once I dropped my speed the light stayed on but the flashing stopped.
I went to plug the truck in today and first shot it didn't communicate with the code reader at all, I talked to someone who told me that the cigerette lighter fuse is also the OBD port fuse, I pulled a fuse from somewhere else and plugged the reader in again. This time it started communicating with the truck but didn't display any codes while all the while the truck is miss firing and the service engine light is lit up on the dash.
One other weird thing: The fuse had an LED indicator to show that it is blown, when I push the cig lighter in the led gets a hell of a lot brighter, if there is always power drawn through the circuit shouldn't the LED be constantly bright all the time? I'm wondering if there is a short somewhere. Where to look next??
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I have a 1997 forkd F150 with a 4.6L Romeo engine. I have recently rebuilt the engine and now since it is put back together I am having a issues that i cannot pin point. When the truck is running and in gear my RPM drop to around 500 or below and my oil pressure drops and comes back up when the rpm's come back up this an intermittent problem and I have replaced the IAC valve and every once in a while i get a P0401 code for the exhaust recirculation. I think I am loosing some kind of vacuum. It was not doing this when I tore into the truck. It seems to be running okay not hesitation.
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Well here it is I just put a new slave cylinder in my 02' F-150 and once we figured out all the little issues we were having we finally got the truck to fire up!!! Now my problem is that when the truck is running I can't get the truck into gear with the clutch pushed and it doesn't even grind. But when the truck is off it goes through the gears no problem what so ever. When we did the slave cylinder while we were in there we just replaced everything clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, rear seal, and pilot bearing. We figured that since all the shops were quoting me 800 and up for just doing the slave that since were in there we might as well do everything since nothing has ever been replaced yet. My question is why will the truck not let me shift into gears when running but no problem when off. Oh and yes the system was bled after doing the slave actually twice so far.
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1999 f150 5.4 it's been over 3 months since It happened I hit a pretty big mud hole and right after it starts bogging and running rough and won't drive I made it home and second and I've been driving it around town in second gear since. I've been trying different things since it happened, It runs rough in drive, reverse, neutral, and first (towing gear) but revs up just fine in second (towing gear).
So far I've
- Checked all fuses
- Changed plugs checks coil packs
- Dropped pan changed tranny fluid and filter
I broke a heater core line so I replaced the intake manifold and got a good look at everything and cleaned it out
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked all connections
- Checked all vacuum hoses
- Replaced maf sensor
- Pulled the codes but I don't have them handy.
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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I have a 2001 F150 XLT Supercab,4.2lt, automatic, 2WD.
I was able to start it about a month or so ago but it was really hard to start. I had to use starting fluid to get it started, and it was still tough to get it to start, but once started and warmed up it ran fine.
Now I tried to start it again and it kicks over and wont start. I tried the same with the starting fluid and it almost starts and dies. I think I used a little too much starting fluid because after a while of trying and spraying starting fluid, I got a hard backfire that sounded like a shotgun that was strong enough to pop off the MAF Sensor and throw it about 10 feet. I nearly crapped my pants! It looks clean and undamaged but I hope I didn't damage the MAF Sensor when if hit the ground.
The truck sounds like its starving for fuel, so I'm not sure if the fuel pump relay is going or has gone bad, or if its the fuel pump. How to check these items without making it a huge project to diagnose?
Once I can get it to start easily, I have a couple of questions about the trouble code that keeps coming back P0174. That was the original problem with it before the starting problem.The diagnostic says that it is lean in bank 2 but a mechanic friend of mine said something about a vacuum leak.
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I have a 1999 F150 with a 5.4L. I recently replaced the PCM with a new unit from autocomputerexchange.net that was programed for my truck. I installed the PCM but the truck did not start. The theft light is also flashing rapidly during cranking. I ran a code scanner a recieved the code P1260 indicating an attempted theft which disabled the truck. I read that if you have two keys you can sync the keys with the new computer but unfortunately one of the keys stopped working a couple years ago (not sure why, stopped for gas and it never started back up). Since i do not have two working keys do i have to tow the truck to a dealer and let them reprogram the keys and reset the PATS or can i have a locksmith recode the keys and sync the keys myself.
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