1996 f150 sometimes it starts sometimes it don't. It is cranking over the starter is in gauging as well as the fuel pump I can hear it.... It's getting spark and I replaced the starter solenoid.
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 F150. I have an intermittent issue with truck not starting. It turns over fine but will not start. Also, when having this issue, there is also no activity with the cluster when turning the key on (other than lights lighting up); the gauges will not move as they would normally when turning key on. I have checked every fuse inside / out. I have checked the fusible link at the battery as well as any other connections I could locate around the solenoid as well as disconnecting the ECM / computer and re-plugging it back up. Typically, after letting the truck sit for a day or so, it will start back up until next time.
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
Just bought this 1999 7.3 drove it a couple days now and got to walmart today. shut it off to go inside and came back out. turned on key waited for wait to start to go off. cranked the motor over but it didnt fire. i tried it again and nothing. oil is full, oil pressure is good while cranking. no rpm reading on gauge while cranking. no check engine light. batteries are literally brand new two weeks ago. Cam sensor?
View 4 RepliesMy 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
View 7 RepliesBackground on the vehicle, Last week installed Swamps 200cc/30% injectors with a 38r. Had swamps reburn my chip for the new upgrades.
But heres the problem i noticed starting the truck was a little harder ( longer cranking ) till it would start never thought of anything since i read air gets in and can cause it but then yesterday and today its taken 30 minutes to start the truck since i have to do a trial and error.
The truck just seems like the batteries are being drained or something along those lines. i also noticed my gauges keep resetting back to blue( default color). Today I plugged a battery charger up all good voltage i charged them so both read 14v and still no start. So a couple of attempts at starting with chip in and ICP on nothing
I unhook the chip and ICP get a half start then eventually it starts. After then i can hook it all back up and it starts good for the rest of the day but for what ever reason after it sits all night it doesn't want to start up right away. I'd like to figure it out today since id rather not wake up at 4am and attempt to do this all before work each day.
I noticed that my gauges would reset to the default color after each turn off. So i unscrewed my ECU and then redid that to make sure its tight. along with making sure the chip is seated properly. after that it stopped resting my gauges. Whether that's the issue or not i cant say but ive been checking my HPOP oil level since i stopped driving it around 1400. and hasn't changed oil levels are good. I plan on starting it before I go to bed around 2200-2300 just to check and see what happens.
Several weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
Have a 7.3 powerstroke won't start.. I have went through tons of parts check everything I can think of. I have put icp, our, fuel pump, fuel pump, injector, glow plugs and relay, fuel and air filter. new starter, new valve cover harness. HPOP is good and compression is good?
View 14 RepliesI had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.
I have a 2000 F450 with a 7.3. I am having problems starting it. Batteries are good, engine turns over strong. It has started a few times after a extremely long crank (so long I am sure I am burning out the starter). I have replaced the CPS since it was cheap enough but that didn't make a difference. I have unplugged the ICP and it is very oily inside the connection. Does this mean the ICP should definitely be replaced? The truck will not start with the ICP unplugged. Should it be able to start with the ICP unplugged? Other items I plan on looking at at the IPR and possible the IDM box. Am I on the right track?
View 11 RepliesThe other day, I started having problems with the truck not starting when at operating temp. Went for a drive and stopped a a scenic overlook, and spent about 30 minutes taking pictures. Went back to the truck, and it wouldn't start. Outside temp was about 95 degrees.
I tried for about half an hour to start it, but all it would do is turn over. There was a work crew there with their heavy machinery, and I was able to borrow their starting fluid. One quick squirt into the intake, and it fired right up.
Although I do have an oil leak from the right valve cover, when I checked the oil, it was just off the full mark. The truck was parked on a slight angle with the driver side being about a foot higher than the passenger side.
2003 F350 w/6.0, 180,000 miles
Okay a little update on my truck not starting, and for those who have not read my earlier post. My water in fuel light has been on in my truck for probably a month of use. I drained the water sep under the truck nonstop and added several bottles of water remover and the light would not go out so I assumed the sensor was just bad. (im new to owning a powerstroke btw) I broke down coming home from work, got it towed home, and still cant get it started. It will crank fine just wont fire up. I tried unplugging the ICP, i replaced the CPS, and ordered a new water sep/ fuel filter for under the truck. And the fuel filter on top was just replaced a month before breaking down. Every single time i drain the separator tons of clear water diluted fuel comes out before it turns greenish.
Not sure if this could be a cause of getting water in my fuel but one time i filled the truck up completely and it was like the water overfilled and probably a quart or two of fuel spewed out onto the ground. Not sure where it came from. Also I have just over a quarter tank so i was thinking maybe the float broke and I just needed to add fuel but today before i went to add fuel i drained the sep and tons of water came out... Im so worried about hydrolocking my engine or ruining my injectors. But I dont know if my issue even is water related if the sensor just went bad...
2001 F250 7.3l 294k miles
Ok so truck has always had difficulty starting cold since I got it about 12k miles ago. Replaced glow plugs, that made things slightly better but still no start unless temp gauge was in that first line above the C. Changed to Rotella, immediately after oil change starts better and at slightly colder temps.
Since getting the truck when you turn the ignition on you can hear a 'whistling' type noise which I believe is the fuel system pressurising. That used to last as long as the chimes did when you first turn the ignition on. More recently it lasts a lot longer.
Towed recently and had intermittent check engine light - believe this could be HPOP related, haven't checked codes yet as we're on vacation. No oil in the valley. But I do have a little oil carry over in the turbo intercooler pipes.
Truck slightly sluggish at setting off initially and then picks up reasonably well when not towing but my Dyno says I'm putting a bit more pedal to get the same performance from say two months ago
Pretty sure injectors haven't been changed since truck was new but can't be absolutely certain as there is no history. I was surmising this is probably both a HPOP and injector age issue but only from what I've found searching...
2003 F150 4.2L V-6. Cranked ok but no start, no check engine light. Plenty spark and could hear fuel pump running. Thought it might be out of fuel but gauge showed over 1/4 tank . Added ~2 Gals fuel anyway, started immediately- no check engine light, no codes set. Thought- bad gauge sending unit. Dropped tank and found plenty of fuel and sending unit checks good. New pump on order but what else could cause the problem?
View 7 RepliesGot two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays.
What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.
I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.
So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.
Been awhile since I've been on here...guess that's a good thing! Current problem...about a week ago my car stalled after starting it. I had been running errands all day so the engine was warm. Started fine, and then slowly died. My husband replaced the IAC valve. (My truck had this same problem 3 1/2 years ago...it was the IAC).
After replacing this time, it seemed to be fine. However today, again after running errands, the engine stalled slowly after I had started the engine. It seemed like it was trying to stay running, but then just slowly died. I tried starting again and it stayed running, so I was able to get home. It seemed to run fine while driving home. Also, no engine light has come on. Wondering what could be causing this. Don't want to get stranded somewhere.
I have a squeal that I am pretty sure is coming from somewhere in the A/C compressor/pulley assembly. The trucks squeals on start up (more so when it is cold/damp outside) and then sometimes as I am driving. It doesn't matter if the a/c is on or off. I have also noticed that, while driving, the squeal occurs when I take my foot off the gas. At this point I have replaced the belt, the tensioner and the a/c pulley. I am about to change out the shims to see if that works, but also was wondering if it is possible for the clutch hub to wear down and go bad.
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 f150 with the 5.4. when it starts it takes a minute or two to do so.. After I shut it off and try to restart it won't unless I turn the key on and wait. I checked the pressure and when idling its running about 28 soon as the key is turned off it goes to 0. Is my pump bad??
View 8 Replies