Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Truck Won't Turn Over Intermittently?
Nov 25, 2011
Own a 1997 F-150, 4.6 L, 4 x 4. I know it's old but it's in very good body shape, has been undercoated for years. I've only had it for a year. This summer it began to not start (intermittently). The dash lights all come on but the starter will not engage. Brought to my local garage, he changed the starter and the ground cable from the battery.
Was ok for a few months and now it's beginning to do the same thing. Brought it back to him, can't find anything. He did say that the battery is a bit weak, the terminals are spotless (I keep them spotless, coat them with white grease). I measured the voltage with the engine stopped and with it running. Stopped, the voltage is 11.94, running it is 14.87. This clearly shows that the battery is weak.
My question is would this cause the starter to not engage after 4 or 5 turns of the key and then on the 6th try, the starter turns over? I don't want to spend more money ($ 450) the last time and have the same result. If it's possible it's the battery, I'll replace it no problem.
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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A couple of weeks ago my truck wouldn't start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and when that didn't work I took it to a mechanic. At first it wouldn't start for him either. After move the truck inside he tried to crank it again and it fired right up. He said he didn't want to replace something if he wasn't sure what it was. Today it wouldn't start again. I bought some noid lights as suggested on line and tested one of the injector connectors and it did not light up. I realize that the injectors are not getting the needed "pulse". Whole thinking about what to do next I noticed that there was a broken wire. The wire is going to a really small looking box of some sort that is attached to the engine close to the injector at the front of the engine. What the wire is for and I am really not sure what to do next. I will try to upload a picture...
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If I turn on my ignition switch and my gauges go to where they're supposed to be, the truck will crank. If I turn switch and , lets say gas needle for example, the needle goes to full then drops back to empty, the engine will turn over but will not crank.
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1999 f150 4.2l v6.. The anti theft system has kicked in and my truck won't turn over, the stereo won't turn on, the lights don't work. How can I fix this?
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I have a 1997 ford f150 V-6 4.2. My son was driving the truck on the expressway and it quit running. The toe truck has delivered the truck back to my house. The engine turns over but will not start. I shot gas into the engine with a spray bottle and the engine still would not start. Was going to check the coil for spark next. What to check first. Was thinking the problem could be the modulator or coil.
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I bought a 99 f350, that already had HID's in it, i found out i was running the wrong batters (weren't 800 cold crank) I just had to replace the alternator. Ever since the new alternator when i turn on my headlights my truck shuts off. IT fried my IDM and i just put a new IDM and 2 new batteries in it today. Thinking i had fixed the problem i drove around no issues, finally i was leaving someones house and turned on my lights, and truck shuts off!!! It restarts but now im trowing a code!!!! im guessing the HIDs are wired wrong and that's why its shutting down the truck but OEM IDM from ford is 1300$!!!!! brand new one installed today,
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I have a 1999 f150. Its having a fuel problem i was driving and my truck just cut out on me. I have diag it as the fuel pump cause when I turn the key, I have no response from my pump.
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Started the morning with oil pressure gauge dropping to 0, gave it a few minutes checked oil, it was fine. Restarted truck, pressure went back to normal. Drove about another 30 miles pressure gauge would drop but would rise when hit accelerator. I was driving about 60mph, gauge went back to 0, check engine light came on and within a matter of seconds, a whining noise started, pulled over before i could completely stop, it died, and now won't crank.
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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97 F150 4x4 around 200k miles on it, Drove the truck to town today and it started making a screeching noise when I turn the wheel and moving at slow speed's It is not the typical Ball joint squeak, and they were replaced about 6 months ago. I also get a clicking squeak going down the road, everyone in a while from take of ill get a slide grinding or crunching noise. Also noticed that when taking a curve to the right i feel and hear a slight Bump but I don't when turning to the left/
Also it doesn't have the typical grinding noise of a bad unit bearing, there is a slight roar but Pretty sure that it is just the aggressive tire's... I am about to go out and Jack it up and have a look at it to see what it was. Also if I loosen the Cv nut on at the Hub that would show me if there was any play in the bearing correct? since the cv should keep the bearing's fairly tight even if they are worn?
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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Pulled inside fuses one at a time and it seems to be #15 I hear a clicking sound coming from drivers door and have the fuse pulled for the battery saver relay when hearing it . My test light is dim then pulses when I close the driver's door?
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Several months ago, my truck begins having starting issues. Intermittently, the truck will not start, even though it cranks fine. I have done the following:
- checked inertia fuel switch. Okay.
- checked connections under hood for corrosion. Okay.
- checked fuses & start relay. Also swapped relays with no luck fixing the problem.
- sprayed water at various locations under the hood and bed, since the problem occurs more often when raining. No luck stressing the problem.
- changed fuel filter a couple weeks ago. No luck fixing the problem.
- changed battery over the winter (due to my 8 year old battery was becoming weak). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- changed the starter a month ago (since the truck stopped cranking). No luck fixing the intermittent starting problem.
- Installed a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail.
- Tried banging on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet. No luck fixing the intermittent starting issue.
When the truck refuses to start, the fuel pressure reads 0. Sometimes I can wait 5-10 minutes, and it will start. The truck runs fine after starting.
Sometimes waiting 5-10 minutes will not solve the problem (fuel pressure remains 0). Then, I hook my battery charger to the battery, and the voltage climbs from ~12.5V to 14.7V. The fuel pressure climbs to 30, and the truck starts.
I'm apprehensive to change the fuel pump, since it seems like more an electrical problem than a pump problem. Any diagnostic test that will tell the true problem source?
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200 F150 5.4L Triton, 164K rounds. My odometer has been going on and off intermittently since I bought the truck 4 months ago, no big deal. This morning, though, I started the truck to go to work and my oil pressure gauge was at zero. There wasn't any noise coming from the motor aside from the very slight bottom end knock it had when I bought it, so I figured it's the sending unit. I shut the truck off and started it back up a few times to be sure, and the oil pressure sending unit started working. But THEN my 4X4 engaged. The dial on the dash was in the 2WD position, but the 4X4 was definitely engaged. It wouldn't engage when I first bought the truck without swapping the vacuum hoses under the hood, and now it's doing it on its' own.
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The brake pedal intermittently goes to the floor on my nephew's 2003 F150 without grabbing at all. Pumping the brakes restores them, then they act normally for a while. I've replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft unit, no change. No ABS codes. All rubber lines are in good shape. I'm stumped, although I suspect the ABS system somehow. I'm going to have him pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away.
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My dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
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My 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
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So on a cold start I keep hearing this ticking noise. Not every time, but more often than not.
I have two thoughts:
1) Low oil pressure causing timing chain tensioners to allow slack in the timing chain. Oil pressure builds up after about 1 minute of driving.
2) Oil Restricter in the valve cover starving one side of the valve cover?
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I have a 2001 F150 XL, 2WD, 4.2L, Auto at work. It will intermittently crank but not start, also, my scan tool will sometimes not connect to the truck. The only code I ever get is 1 about not being able to connect to self diagnostics. I have narrowed it down to the PCM relay in the underhood power distribution module not turning on because it SOMETIMES only sees a 2 volt turn on signal instead of 12 volts. I have replaced the ignition switch on the steering column- initially I thought that took care of it.
But as I was about to put the meter away it did it again. If I remove and reinstall the diode that is in the PDM, sometimes more than once, I can get it to turn on. Are these diodes available from any one besides Ford? The wiring diagram in my Haynes manual is very generic and does not show the circuit from the ignition switch to the fuse box. Where can I find a GOOD and complete wiring diagram for free on the net so I can print it out and take it with me to work?
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My '99 F150 has an issue. The green digital display had one portion of a station number and one indicator section on the volume display that will intermittently cut out and reappear for no apparent reason. What is happening?
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