Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Transmission Drop Out Of Gear With Selector In Drive
Feb 28, 2015
I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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My selector switch does not light up when engaging four wheel drive on my 98 f150,could this be my GEM module gone bad ?
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I have a 2008 Elantra GLS. I am getting a code of P0750. Seloniod A fault. I have checked wiring harness for critter bites all looks good. If I clear the code the transmission shifts normal until it is shut off like overnight. I also have been noticing that it idles around 1100RPM to 1300RPM and it does drop into gear harder (reverse or drive). This high idle started before the P0750 code.
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I have a 1997 forkd F150 with a 4.6L Romeo engine. I have recently rebuilt the engine and now since it is put back together I am having a issues that i cannot pin point. When the truck is running and in gear my RPM drop to around 500 or below and my oil pressure drops and comes back up when the rpm's come back up this an intermittent problem and I have replaced the IAC valve and every once in a while i get a P0401 code for the exhaust recirculation. I think I am loosing some kind of vacuum. It was not doing this when I tore into the truck. It seems to be running okay not hesitation.
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I have a 2008 F-150. When moving gear selector from park to either reverse or drive, trans has a delay engaging. After engagement, it runs fine, shifts ok, downshifts ok....
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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My buddy has a 97 Ranger 4X4 Automatic. The gear selector has become out of adjustment. To get the truck started you have to pull up on it (the gear selector) and it is getting worse by the drive. I think it is going to leave him stranded in the near future if it is not bought back in to adjustment.
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I have a 2002 f150 4.6L triton. I've been having problems with it making a clicking noise. It only does it when its in gear. I put it in park or natural I hear nothing. But as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and put a little pressure on throttle it starts to tick pretty loudly.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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Just finished putting a fresh 460 backed by a (1977) c6 in my '68 ranger and now I'm having (what I believe is) transmission problems. The truck will idle and rev properly in gear but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse the RPM's drop and it dies. I jacked the back end up and put it in both drive and reverse and the tire's spin, but if I try and apply the brake to stop them the truck will die. My suspicion is that the torque converter is locked up all the time. I have managed to get it in gear and give it gas and it'll drive and shift fine, until I come to a stop. My question, what would cause the converter to do this? It's the same transmission and converter that I pulled out a month ago and I never had any issues before...
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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The gate to the right of the PRNDL gate of the automatic transmission in my 2003 1.8T with the "+" and "-" stopped working. What may be wrong? The transmission works fine and shifts normally. I did replace the fluid recently but did nothing except remove the fluid and refill.
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Woke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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I am needing to replace the selector switch for my 4x4 on my 2003 F150 Lariat FX4... I already have the new switch. Whats the best way to get in there to remove and replace the switch?
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I have a '97 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L engine and automatic transmission. The tranny's been slipping on and off for a couple of years. It started when it was hot outside, I had been driving a long ways, and I was trompin' on the gas to pass someone. Still, the slips were rare. As it got worse during the hot summer months, I just minimized my long-distance travels.
I recently took it to a transmission mechanic. Like some of the feedback to posts in here, he felt it was a problem with the engine - because we had a bad EGR valve signal on the computer. (We still flushed the fluid. I later replaced the EGR and the DPFE. Another mechanic went through everything, replaced some valves that had something to do with the EGR, and feels the engine is 100% (and it runs very, very smooth). For those that will bring it up - I have replaced all of the coils (though it's been a few years). Having actually replaced some numerous times over the years, I can feel when one is bad (of course, the 'check engine' light as well). Lastly, we've replaced all bulbs in the dash so they are all working as well. Also, the transmission is not leaking. The computer system is giving us no errors/throwing codes.
After a couple of weeks, I happened to drive the truck a long distance one day and it started slipping. It got bad enough that it was slipping every time going from first to second gear. It would usually engage as I took my foot off the gas. Since then, because I haven't driven long distances, I have not had a problem.
The transmission mechanic thinks it's still an engine issue. He also mentioned a mechanical/electrical switch system on the side of the transmission (?). Give me a list of things to look at.
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I have just put in another transmission and the truck will not shift out of first gear, it will go in reverse and first and reverse. The guy who had it before me had the same problem when he put in a transmission with only about 40-60,000 miles he assumed it was a bad transmission. And that's how I ended up with the truck. We have so far installed yet another transmission and it is doing the same not shifting out of first that it did for him. There is no cel or blinking overdrive lights, checked fluid levels, checked selinoids, gonna purchase a used computer for diagnostics, I am stumped with limited knowledge. The dealership said the transmission should be the e40d I'm reading it should have the 4r100 is that correct? The truck is the 5.4L v8 with 74,000 original miles. Truck sounds amazing. I really want to fix it.
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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