Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
View 1 RepliesTransmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
View 12 RepliesI pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
View 3 RepliesAcross Internet is lot of examples of using pump, usually drill pump or vacuum. It seam to me that drill pump would work good for that job. Pump that attach to battery have limited amount of power and vacuum pump is manual. Look like a excellent device for transmission fluid change. Clearly no drain screw at pan. I do not think I'm fan of disconnecting return line and live empty tranny.
For example here : [URL] .....
Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
My 97 AWD Aerostar bumps in and out of gear on very hot days. I've had the transmission fluid and filter changed. That repair worked, but it still shifts hard when very hot. I tow a boat. I always push the shifter button in to deactivate the OD when towing. I talked to friends who recommended an auxiliary transmission cooler. I looked on the van where one might be installed. I have a factory transmission cooler (oem factory installed).
The cooler is in front of the radiator. I don't see any room to add an additional cooler. The van has 145,000 miles. The van runs and shifts fine most of the time. The problem has happened only on very hot days. What I can do to prevent transmission problems. I've read that the AWD 1997s use a five speed transmission. 1997 was the first and last year the five speed automatic was installed in the AWD Aerostar.
I have a mercury sable 1997. It stocks a first gear and doesn't change more. Before, it was change the rotation ( sometimes the stayed higher and sometimes low) without I pull or push the accelerator. The transmission oil is ok, and the car didn't have noisy or other symptoms of transmission problem. What Are doing it? What I need to do?
View 9 RepliesMy ac seems to get cooler at higher rpms. I looked online and it appears to be the orifice tube...
View 3 RepliesI have an 03 f150 supercrew that had a 4.6L. I am installing a 3.9 Cummins diesel. I will have a separately mounted transmission cooler. I'm using the stock radiator as these engines run cool. It has a transmission cooler built into it. If i just leave the fitting loose, will it cause me any problems. It is a plastic can on each end and i suppose it to have contact with the radiator passages.
View 7 RepliesAs explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
View 7 RepliesWell it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
View 5 RepliesI bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
I have an 02 f150 xl, I'm taking the stock head unit out and replacing it with a Pioneer 1900. I didn't buy a connector I'm just splicing the wires together, I know I shouldn't do it that way but it's to late now, what my problem is, there are three ground wires coming from the truck and the new head unit only has one ground, I just looked wiring diagrams up for both head units and that got pretty much everything done, just there are two speaker ground wires that are black and green, and then a regular black ground wire, I'm not sure if I should connect them all together or cap them separately, because I connected everything up and the head unit wouldn't turn on...
View 2 RepliesI have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
View 3 RepliesI have a leak in my inter-cooler system. I have replaced all the hoses. Is there a reason I should not pressure test the system with 20psi? 2001 F350 7.3 turbo....
View 1 RepliesI am doing the usual upgrades on a 2005 F250. What started as a small leak at the rubber coupling between egr tube and oil cooler turned into doing everything else while motor is down this far.
I am curious what the difference in the upgraded oil cooler is? Well besides not prone to failing as early.
I had a small pin fall out from under the dash today in my 2000 F150 today, I was shifting the truck into park when it came out and hit me in the foot. It is turned down on one end and knurled on the other end. Now the shifter feels sloppy front to back and when at rest in park the shifter is almost against the dash, where I should start to look for this? Or do I just start taking it apart until I find a hole with no pin in it? So far it is still shifting and tight as far as what gear its in but goes way too close to the dash.
View 2 RepliesSo about 2 yes ago I had a cracked intake manifold and had it replaced..shortly after had low egr flow codes that had me replace every sensor involved on top and three that ford found for me. And fixed...my 01 f150 5.4 super crew has been my best friend last 165k of its 246. So it has a small leak in radiator. Didn't think that would do anything for a bit. Well after almost overheating a few times I pulled up to a job and water was pouring out the top back passenger side....blah blah blah saving 1400 this time I pulled everything to the head. Took off intake put back together torqued to 20lbs.
Still mix fires at low idle and low rpms.gets worse longer I sit at light have redone plugs switched coil pack at the misfire location..still missing. the round black sensor before the egr out of the intake has good vac in but limited to egr. Don't think this is right...has lean codes both banks....but I also had a PVC not in and the exhaust outflow sensor had a hose knocked off again...misfiring...checking hoses nothing obvious... Perhaps the spare coil is no good now....keep one two handy for wet locations... Did I not do intake right...and I did use rtv
I've just (a couple of weeks ago) purchased an 03 Santa Fe. I noticed some trans fluid on my driveway a week later, and not a small amount. I took the lower cover off of the engine, and the leak is coming from the transmission oil cooler area. I had hopes that it would be something fairly straightforward to repair, so I got a replacement oil cooler and some spare hose, just in case it was just a hose. After getting the front bumper off, I found that the bottom of the oil cooler is clean and dry-- not the issue. It looks as though the leak is coming from what they're calling the Trans oil cooler "tube assembly", as illustrated on the Hyundai Parts Department trans cooler page as item number 5, part number 2547126011. Am I correct in assuming that I'm going to have to remove the entire radiator to get to this thing to replace it? It appears to be fixed in place, but I can't see any hardware to remove it.
View 10 Replies2001 7.3 auto with 188k miles. Supposed to have had a new tranny at 99k miles. Fluid nice and red with no smell.
Here's problem: during the 3rd shift (gear before overdrive), and between 40 and 50 mph, I get a small vibration in tranny. Seems to be just that shift. It's not noticeable if I run it a little harder on the shift (speed up). If I let it lag on the shift, the vibration is worst. All other gears seem ok.
Questions:
1. I believe I have a 4R100. It has a drain plug, but how do I confirm?
2. I have a couple different scan tools. Should I be getting codes if I have tranny problems? Or is there a scan PID I can check?
3. I was thinking of starting with fluid change. Since it probably hasn't been changed since 99k miles.
Last question: any detailed write on fluid change handy? That would include type of fluid, filter part number, etc?