My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
View 1 RepliesI have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
View 6 RepliesI recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
View 1 RepliesI have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
I have a 2003 Camry LE with 1MZ engine and U151 5 speed auto trans. 138,000 miles The problem is that the trans makes a very noticeable downshift clunk when stopping.
With light driving you can feel what seems to be a 2-1 downshift just before stopping. With aggressive driving and rapid stop the clunk is felt either when stopping or actually after the wheels stop turning depending on speed and hard braking. If you stop aggressively it actually feels like someone hit you from behind. It literally shakes the car.
TRANS FLUID is full and clean. There is no smell or burnt appearance. The trans tests good in forward and reverse stall tests. Neutral to drive/reverse engagement is also quick and firm.
Here is the fun part. The condition does not exist when cold. After the engine and trans warms up it starts happening. Also, after presenting the condition with a hot trans, I can shift it out of drive and into 3rd and have no problem at all no matter how I drive. To make things more interesting, I can erase the trans learned values with a scan tool and the trans shifts normally for a couple of days before the condition returns.
We are concerned that there may be damage done if this condition continues.
-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
I have a 02' f150 v6 67,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the trans shudders abit like the converter is still locked up. It then goes to stall in a few seconds. this does not happen all the time, fluid is clean. I understand there is a simple fix for this, or is this normal?
View 1 RepliesWell I was trying out my four wheel drive today and it worked fine until I went to turn off switch, it would not cut off it is a 98 F150 switch is located on dash. It is stuck in four wheel high!
View 3 RepliesCan't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
Or just can I just replace and go. I'm having some issues with trans on my 06 gs430. It's having a downshift clunk/jerk when coming to a stop. I just purchased a used trans, but would like to see if it could be ecu related. I have seen other comments from other member that they replaced the trans, but still the issues were present. Some stated that there was some issues with the ecu holding the trans solenoid longer then the usual.
View 6 Replies2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
View 7 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
I have a 1998 f 150 v8 4.6 ltr xlt. A mechanic told me that if my tranny gets hot the OVERDRIVE LIGHT will start to blink. It sounds strange to me, should I have a guage installed? I will be towing a trailer this summer.
View 8 Replies2003 F150, 5.4 FX4, overdrive light flashes. Took to a shop they said overheating issue, but I don't understand if it is a overheating issue why does I flash at 4 in the morning when I leave for work fter sitting all night and why does it stop when I do over 70 on the highway.
View 4 RepliesWhenever I manually pull my gear selector into first gear it blows one of the 10a fuses (not sure which number). I lose all gauges and accelerator pedal. It's about the fourth fuse from the right on the bottom row.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 99 7.3 been in the trees for a few years pulled it home and now trying to get it running. Did a service new filters and oil fuel too. I can get it to start and will run but runs very rough and if you put it in drive cant pull its own self. I don't have a check eng light on. And found out my scanner is a pos lol. it will hooked up and then try to pull codes and loses it connection. But that's the scanner will not work on my other 7.3 as well.
I am making high pressure oil checked off the rail with gauge and it will build up to 2000 psi when I rev it. but missing like crazy. I swaped the pcm and idm out of my running 7.3 and it didn't change a thing. I have checked the pass though and they are fine. pulled drivers side valve cover off and no oil leaks when running and rockers are fine. new ipr valve as well too. I know I need to get a scanner to talk to this thing better.
I posted a few weeks ago about a problem I fixed with the MAF ( leak after the MAF ). 89 GT 111k miles, ( car restored to showroom condition ) Last week I pull to a stop light and idle is at 2000 RPM. Shut engine off and restarted and all was well, and idle back to about 800. I know something was wrong before hand as the car was pulling without my foot of the throttle. This happened again when I pulled into my driveway so let it run like this and when I pulled the plug on the IAC and idle dropped to about 600.
I took the IAC off the TB and cleaned it which did not look too bad. Installed IAC but left it disconnected and set up the idle on the TB according to the shop manual to 750 RPM. Shut engine off connected the IAC and followed the instructions in the manual to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, letting it idle for 2 minutes shut engine off then restart.
Well it was good for 2 days then started the same thing, 2000 rpm at idle..for the time being I have the IAC disconnected and set the idle up on the TB to about 850 RPM.
I have been driving the car like this for 4 days now and no running problems what so ever. Funny thing is no check engine light and no stored codes during this entire episode..Had my friend with an earlier OBD scan for codes and clean.
I hate shot gunning parts by replacing the IAC. Does it hurt running the car with the IAC disconnected or should I foot the bill and get a new one ? and hope that is the problem..or could something else be causing this ?
I checked for any vacuum leaks using my propane torch no change in idle. IAC problem on 89 Mustang GT 5.0 manual trans.?
I got myself a 1997 explorer Australian model when I got it (here's the problem) if you put it in drive it will not engage but if put in first will drive normal then shift into second all good now u have push O.D then shift into drive all good (unless u slow down to almost a stop) ? New problem is, it has gone and lost reverse, put it in reverse and it engages with a small clank (normal) but just slips with any revs. I have read posts here talking about upper and lower valve body gaskets and transgo shiftkit which I have ordered but do there maybe more parts needed? Cause it's going to cost me lot just to put transmission fluid back in.
View 4 RepliesMy 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
View 9 Replies