I bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
View 8 RepliesSo I put in new clutch yesterday. Reverse works, granny works, 3,4,5 work. ZF6 manual. But when I try to go 1st or 2nd. Its as if the truck is in neutral....what should I be looking for. I bought the truck having only knowing the clutch was completely shot, was not told about this 1&2 gear issue....
Do I need to pull the trans out again... or is there something I can see or adjust, because from what i can see where the shifter connects there is no adjustments. Is it probably a gear selector fork...or connection that took a crap. when moving in granny gear i did not hear any irregular noises....
1991, F-250, automatic, 150,000 miles, two tanks. Used mostly for towing an RV plus some pleasure. Not in daily use. A month ago I parked it and a few days later cranked it up and found it wouldn't run over thirty MPH. There was some high pitched backfire in the engine compartment and the trans. wouldn't shift. I parked it and the next day it wouldn't start. When I turned the key on the fuel pumps (either tank) ran continuously. Towed to a garage (I am not a Mechanic). They have replaced the fuel pressure control, checked all pressures and it still won't run right. The problem is intermittent. My tranny man said the trans was good. My mechanics don't know what to do. I bought it in 1998.
View 3 RepliesI have 1999, F150 5.4L with electric 4wd shift. I put it in 4high just fine and smooth. Now 4lo on other hand rough shift if it goes in 4lo, sometimes won't engage but 4 high works fine. What's the cause
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F-150 XLT, with the 5.4 and a 4spd auto. 172,XXX miles on the clock and i have owned it starting on April of 2014.
Tonight driving home from work, it took some time on the highway (4 miles) to shift into top gear. When you lift off the gas pedal after reaching the speed limit, normally the truck will shift from 3rd to 4th no problem. When I let off the pedal, there was no gear change.
It took sometime for it to shift up. When downshifting on the exit ramp, there was nothing abnormal. Where I live it is 19 Degrees Fahrenheit and this is the beginning of the cold snap that will last well into mid-January of next year.
I have a 1992 F-150 straight 6. Several days ago it started running rough and losing power and the trans shifted hard.
I put my code reader on it this morning and it read codes 332 and 334 - Insufficient EGR flow detected and EGR closed valve voltage high...
I have looked for vacuum leaks and found nothing. Is it possible the EGR valve is stuck?
I have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
I have a 2001 F150 4.6L auto. This truck suddenly started running rough. Cleared all codes and re-scanned after starting truck. The codes are as follows; P0135, P0155, P0443, P0740, P0743, P0758, P1451, P1460, P1747, and P1760.
My question is; is it normal to have this many DTCs come up at once? Could my PCM be faulty causing this problem? Can you swap a pcm from the same year truck with the same options without reprogramming?
2001 F150 4.6. Just replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs. Replaced rubber grommet on brake booster as it was leaking vacuum.
Truck is still running rough hesitating.
Pulled codes came up as PO141 oxygen sensor heater circuit. PO171 passenger side cylinders running lean. Fuel trim outside limits.
So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
View 9 RepliesI have been having some issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter, started out running rough, then hydrolocked with no serious damage, blown intake manifold gasket, fixed that, alternator over charging do to bad voltage regulator, fixed that. and airbag code 52, still working on that, as well as failure to connect when trying to do diagnostic scan. now I am wondering if the engine diagnostic is still even working. still running good just a very slight vibration when warms up. I am not getting any code. or my check engine light is not showing any codes. What I want to do is force a code. What would be the safest way to force a code or force engine light to give a code?
View 6 Replies1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
View 7 RepliesLast week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
View 5 RepliesMy truck started acting up the other day with a flashing Tow/Haul light and CEL. The codes for the transmission were P0752 and P2700. I swapped out the SSPC-A solenoid unhooked the batteries for an hour and there was no change.
I hooked up a 100lb oil pressure gauge to the 1/8"npt outlet on the side of the tranny. At startup it immediately pegged the gauge....forever, lol. The gauge is toast now. Upon starting is has oil pressure visible in the see through line of the oil pressure gauge. But....if you tap the throttle in park for a second, the line looses pressure (by seeing the oil go back toward the transmission). Without pressure, when you put it in drive, it takes about 5 seconds at idle to build pressure and engage. If you give it the slightest throttle before engagement, it won't engage.
Also, as probably expected, the transmission hunts a bit with rough shifting.
Ok 34,000 miles here and twice in the last week while driving the ESC off light comes on and the button does not turn it on. Today when it happened the trans shifted a little rough once, like it missed a shift. If I turn off car and restart I am good. Spoke to dealer earlier in week and they want to reset my shift points or something again (several times).
Other than that the car runs great and my Kuhmo's are worn out, ughhh. Does this event get recorded and if so how long? No check engine lights.
2009 SE V6
My 1992 F-250 7.3 4X4 has a very intermittent issue with the E40D. Rarely, usually after a lot of around town driving (I don't know if that has any direct correlation), I will get a rough shift from 1-2. It will kind of bang into gear and make the whole truck shudder.
On one of it's episodes, it also did it in 2-3, however that only happened once and I haven't been able to make it do that again. I'm worried that it's something that I should address, if I can do so without just rebuilding the whole transmission. It doesn't slip and shifts fine most of the time, other than the occasional 1-2 issue.
To cut this short, does this sound like a 1-2 accumulator issue? Maybe just old truck syndrome? I feel like this is a dumb as hell question, but isn't it a bad idea to install a shift kit in an E40D with 126K miles on it?
I have a 2001 f150 and when i go around 55 mph it starts to jerk/shake. and sometimes it randomly idles high like the rpm will go up a bit and go down. I also noticed the exhaust manifolds leak sometimes and I don't know if that's what is making it shake. from what i was told it could be the coil packs, spark plugs, or fuel filter but my check engine light is not on!
View 7 RepliesMy trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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