Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Trans Shudder When Come To A Stop Like The Converter Is Still Locked Up
Jun 25, 2012
I have a 02' f150 v6 67,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the trans shudders abit like the converter is still locked up. It then goes to stall in a few seconds. this does not happen all the time, fluid is clean. I understand there is a simple fix for this, or is this normal?
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2003 F150 XLT 7700 4x4 5.4 Triton. While accelerating normally from a stop the transmission? shifts into 2nd with a heavy jerk. All other gears normal. It doesn't do this under hard acceleration or under very gentle and slow throttle application. Is this a COP issue, a transmission issue or just a driving style thing?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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I own a 2003 Explorer, 4.0 v6, w/93k. When turning either direction from a stop I get a shudder from the rear end. Ford has issue tsb # 17717 but I cannot fix the fix, only a description of the problem. Where can I find a fix I wondered?
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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I have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work.
I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far.
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I have an 01 4x4 Ext cab with the 5.4 auto. It just started to shudder in drive doing about 20-35 mph, it quit when I turned the OD off and has not come back yet. It also jumps in and out of OD while running highway speeds, kind of like hitting a bump or something like it. The shudder was in about 10 degree temps and not fully warmed up and the jump happens whenever I am at speeds around 60-75.
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I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
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Anything besides a worn out Torque Converter clutch that might cause the incredible amount of shaking when the transmission tries to lock the TC?
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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I've done the testing of hitting the brakes when the TC is locked and when it's off the shudder disappears. My question is I recently had a trans flush and both internal and external filters replaced. There was a hint of noise before then but it seems it's getting progressively worse. Could it be that they used the incorrect trans fluid? Reading through it seems as if I should follow the steps of dropping the pan and looking for signs and symptoms and then replace with the correct mercon fluid (if that's not already what's there). Then maybe some additives like shudder fix? I just want to make sure I take the correct steps to solve the problem as to not break the bank getting a new TC put in and missed something cheap and easy. Also reading it could be motor related maybe a misfire so just looking for pinpoint the problem.
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I have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
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I have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
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My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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I know it will wear out the tires but will it hurt the front end? Also the drive shafts to the front end is not turning.
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My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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