Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Torque Converter Removal / Replacement
Nov 13, 2014
I have a 97 F-150 Supercab XLT, 4X4, 4.6L W, 4r70W with electronic Overdrive, manual shift transfer case. I need to remove and replace the Torque Converter. My question is: Would it be easier to drop the transmission and transfer case or pull the engine loose and move it forward to get at the torque converter?
It is shifting in and out of overdrive to third, and then back into OD, and back into third erratically and for no apparent reason. It is also slipping intermittently in first from a dead stop and locking all at once, shifts hard then. When I first drive it the OD light does not flash and the OD off switch works, once it warms up good it starts shifting erratically and the OD off switch starts flashing, then the off switch does not work.
I did not get any codes returned on autozones little scanner and am taking it to the ford dealer for a full scan today to see if there might be any other damage or cause for this problem. The problems started when I blew a hose to the trans cooler in the radiator and lost fluid. I didn't notice the blown hose until it started slipping and pulled over, replaced the hose and fluid. Had problems ever since. I have cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the ABS sensor in the differential so far.
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I have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
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I have a '99 F150 w/ the 5.4 and 4R70W, with 226K miles. I am experiencing what I believe is a TC shudder after the tranny shifts into OD between approximately 40-50mph. This sounds like a pretty common problem with this particular tranny, but some of what I've read describes the shudder as feeling akin to driving over rumblestrips, but what I'm experiencing is a very sharp, bucking. Is this how the TC shudder feels, or am I actually dealing with a misfire. Btw, I did completely change the tranny fluid with Mercon V, and added a friction modifier, but no change. I also read that the TC unlocks when the brake lights come on, so I tried lightly hitting the brakes when the bucking was occuring, but it continued.
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I have an 02 f150 xl, I'm taking the stock head unit out and replacing it with a Pioneer 1900. I didn't buy a connector I'm just splicing the wires together, I know I shouldn't do it that way but it's to late now, what my problem is, there are three ground wires coming from the truck and the new head unit only has one ground, I just looked wiring diagrams up for both head units and that got pretty much everything done, just there are two speaker ground wires that are black and green, and then a regular black ground wire, I'm not sure if I should connect them all together or cap them separately, because I connected everything up and the head unit wouldn't turn on...
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
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So here I am driving away for the fuel station and then the tranny tries to shift and I hear and feel a loud clunk followed by no power. I have had no previous issues with the tranny but I believe it has not had any previous work done. The truck is an 02 7.3L with 200500 miles. I am guessing the torque converter is the culprit it still had very little forward motion when I tried to move the truck didn't matter what gear I was in. I intend to have the tranny beefed up but don't intend to go crazy. I do tow an 11,000 lbs TT on a fairly regular basis and have a PHP 6 position switch which can be set for as much as 120 hp from stock but don't do any hot rodding. I am mostly just looking to beef it up and provide as much strength towing.
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I highjacked another thread yesterday but didn't get many responses so I thought I would start a new one... I've done some searching here but no one had any real answers or had a different reason for the vibration...
We have a stock '05 F150 with 24k mi that is having Vibrations not related to bad tires or a bad trailer. It rattles any cups or change that is in the center console area and the dashboard. It seems to come up through the floor.
Symptoms timeline:
The rear pops when you turn tight in a parking lot. I've been told this is normal because of the ratcheting LSD? Is this true?
The tranny fluid was low and we could not find where it was going. Put several qts in it and finally took it to the dealer where they replaced the bad seal between the transmission and transfer case. So we know they took the driveshaft out and the transfer case. Not sure if they dropped the transmission out.
We have a vibration from about 40mph-55mph under medium-full throttle. A lot worse when towing. Put it in neutral and it goes away. Rev the motor and you don't feel it. Only happens under load. Happens in 3 and 4th gear. Goes away once the torque converter locks up.
Am I going down the right path in saying it's a bad torque converter?
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I drive a 1997 Ford Explorer XLT 4X4 with 180,000 miles. A couple months ago my O/D light started flashing. When ever the code flashed i would pull over and I would take the negative cable off to get the codes to clear. While driving it, it would shift normally in till i go to about 40 mph. Then the light would come on and the torque converter would refuse to lock up. I would be in 4th gear at high rpms and when i came to a stop there would be a hard 2-1 shift. I tried solving this by changing the fluid and filter twice. I also replaced the valve body gasket and tcc solenoid. This solved nothing and it continued to do the same thing as before.
I then took it to 2 shops. One told me they go the code for the torque converter and that i would need to replace the whole tranny. The next place told me some internal pump was failing and that a rebuild was recommended. After this I continued to drive it knowing there was no point in trying to save the original tranny. My dads best friend owns a shop about an hour away and said he would replace it with a used one for free. All i had to do is pay for parts. Then one day while driving the transmission blew up and i lost all my gears. Then it was taken to my dads best friends shop. While it was there he replaced it with a used one along with a couple other parts like the starter.
After the used tranny was put in the same problems still kept happening. They tried clearing the code having no luck. I eventually picked it up my self and took it back home to deal with. I can now get the torque converter to lock up but it doesn't want to till I am going over 50mph and at high rpms. The light still comes on when i get to about 40 mphs. I tried clearing the PCM and that fixed nothing. Then i tried replacing the thermostat( It was bad anyways) thinking that the thermostat was not sending the right info to the pcm to make the torque converter lock. Now im completely stuck. What could be causing the problem. I know there are a ton of external sensors that control the torque converter lock up.
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My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
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Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
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My 94 e4od does a few things. It doesn't seem to engage positively all the time. It doesn't grab well in manual 1st, but does in D. I had the FIPL reset at the dealership and he said he never saw a FIPL needing to be set so far one way. Also it has overheated a few times. Either the TC doesn't lock up correctly or its just not all the way in gear (if thats possible) I changed the fluid but it did it again recently.
Also the speedometer is jumping around like a nut case, the abs light is on...sometimes, when I have the headlights on and put my right turn signal on it feels like the TC locks up. Oh, yeah the lights are all jacked up in the back. The left turn signal light also has a small amount of voltage when I put the headlamps on (my test light lights up dimly) I thought it might be the multi function switch so I removed that and cleaned the connections. Nothing changed but I dont think that was it. I have troubleshoot this all day and I don't have too much of a clue to whats going on.
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I have a f150 2002 with a 5.4 and 4r100 (yes im sure), and a week ago my torque converter started getting stock (locked) when i came to a stop making the engine stall (it took a couple of minutes before my engine got warmed up). I checked the codes and got 0740 and 0743 which relate to the tcc solenoid malfunctioning. To make sure the tc wasn't physically stuck y cut the purple wire that signals the solenoid to lock the converter, the truck ran fine and as expected the tcc never locked.
So I thought I narrowed it down to the solenoid pack, which I bought (300 bucks ouch) and changed it yesterday. Today again the same thing started happening and the truck is throwing me the same codes, so I am a bit frustrated. I don't wanna go ahead and buy a torque converter without knowing the real cause, what could it be? I didn't see any melted wires down there but could my long tubes be shorting that wire out randomly in an unseen place? or could my tc be bad?
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Need to diagnose:
- Truck idles a little rough sounds a little like " puff , puff ", when put in reverse - still sounds the same ( looping hesitation )
- When accelerating feels pretty good until about 40-45 then it starts to shake , shudder and loose power. Shakes and shudder pretty violently.
Did a full ATF fluid service - no improvement
Aside from that it does not seem to have any other shifting issues at all. Problem is intermittent. Throughout the day it may run fine, and then at another point in the day it runs like poop when hitting 45+.
Could it be a bad Ignition Coil Pack ? Car has ZERO codes appearing - would either TC or COP set one off ?
Here is a pic of the one COP that I found does have a crack on the top ( passenger side ) - not sure if that could cause the truck to act the way it does.
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Been doing a lot of reading about shudder/vibration on the 2011+ F150's and it seems to all center around the two piece driveshaft found on the longer wheelbases and more during take-off than other times. I have an '11 5.0L 4x4/auto with the 145 wheelbase and the 1-piece aluminum driveshaft and am experiencing a shudder in 3rd gear primarily, most noticeable during light acceleration with medium load (like gently accelerating up a slight incline).
When this is occurring I can see the tach needle fluctuating just slightly (maybe 50-150rpms, just barely bouncing) but I have no check engine light and the only time I have take-off shudder is under hard acceleration which feels like axle hop (which isn't too rare on soft leaf springs with 360hp engines!).
Anyways, this 3rd gear shudder is very soft and nobody has noticed it that has rode in the truck with me, but it sure feels like the old AODE/4R70W trans would when the fluid was getting old and the TC started to shudder during "soft" lock. 5.0L? Certainly could be a miss, though power is good, mileage is great and no CEL is lit...
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With my first tow under my belt from this weekend in my new-to-me truck, I quickly learned that my TC shutters in 5th if I hold fuel down enough to bog the truck before it wants to down shift. The shutters are pretty violent as compared to others I've experienced in Explorers and F150s. When do you know it is time to change it out? Or, is there something else I can or should do before changing it?
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I bought an 07 F150 5.4 4x4 with 135k on it about 6 months ago. Shortly after buying the truck I began experiencing a shudder when lightly accelerating up a hill. Also when accelerating hard it would misfire. Thinking that it was plugs or COPs I changed the plugs and coils. That fixed the missfire issue but it still shuddered when accelerating up a hill.
I decided to take it back to the used car dealer where I bought it so they could fix it. On the way there the fly wheel broke. The dealer replaced it and thought that it was the cause of the problem but on the way home I still experienced the shudder. I took it back and they "scoped" it and found that the torque converter was bad. They replaced the TC and now there is no more shudder BUT now I have a new problem.
Now if I am driving at highway speed and let off the gas it feels like it immediately down shifts for a few seconds then shifts back up and coasts along until I give it gas again. There is enough resistance that it feels like a jake brake or that the breaks are being applied. Also if driving along at 30 - 40 mph and just holding the gas in the same spot maintaining 30-40 it feels like it down shifts and up shifts over and over until I either give it more gas or let off all together. Also a few times pulling away from a stop I will get a thump.
I have an appointment with a transmission shop in a few days but today on the way home I put it in second gear while going up a hill so it would not shift and it seemed like it was coughing and sputtering. So now I am wondering if that is what is happening and either feeling like or causing the down shift up shift issue.
If it is a missfire issue why would the new torque converter cause this? It has all new motor craft plugs and all new after market coils.
There are no check engine or other warning lights lit on the dash. I have a cheap ODB scanner and it shows two codes. B1676 which apparently is a Battery Pack Voltage Out Of Range or ABS voltage issue. The voltage is showing at 14.2 volts and there is no noticeable battery issues. The second code is a P1000 Drive cycle test not complete. (this code has been showing for some time the 1676 code is new since the torque converter swap)
One side note: after the TC change every time I start the truck the radio/cd changer cycles though all the CDs. like it it is checking for a disk so it clicks and pops around from a moment. The only time I heard this happen before was after having the battery disconnected. The clock is not reset though like I would expect if it was losing all power.
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How to drain the tranny fluid from the torque converter , I am dropping the pan and installing new filter and fluid, I want to get as much of old fluid out as i can It has a 3.0 engine with overdrive...
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