Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Throttle Body Control Lever Broken
Oct 22, 2015
I accidentally broke the control lever where the cruize control attaches. I've looked all over but I can't find the lever. Where I could buy just the lever? New throttle body is more than I want to spend.
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So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
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I need to clean my throttle body on my '97 F-150 and it has a label saying not to clean directly. Is it still safe to use TB cleaner and to go ahead and clean it? It needs done but how would I go about it.
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The Throttle Body on my 2001, 4.6 L is making a strange whirring noise, when you puy your hand on the intake pipe, you can feel a slight vibration. The Truck idles and runs okay, with no codes. Giving it a little gas and the noise goes away. The last thing I did was clean the IAC with Gum Out Carb cleaner, the second or third time I've done this over many years, with no problems. I'm a little perplexed at the cause.
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I'm usually over in the EX forum but today was working on my brothers 1998 F150 - V8 4.6L. Had the EGR code P0401 and due to FTE I found the problem took the throttle body off and found it was definitely plugged. One of the bolts was really loose and came off way to easily. Didn't realize until cleaning why... Now I drilled 8 studs out of my aluminum EX heads but this one has me pondering how I'm going to clamp this thing down and center a bit..
1st pic - ports WOW - guessing this was the problem ...
2nd pic - bigger issue ...
3rd pic - the ports cleaned up ...
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I have a throttle body noise that sounds like a warble,It is sporadic and I think it should not be their. But I have heard some other f-150s make the same noise. Is it normal or is something not right.
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I busted the cable end by not removing it properly. My question is what is the proper method of remove the cable from the throttle body? Are the cable ends replaceable? If so who has them as a google search didn't find any? I've tried to find written information but haven't any luck. bl2009
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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Obviously its not a good thing, but this seems a little severe for a truck that hasnt had any issues prior. The truck is a 1998 F150 4.6 and was running just fine until POP!! A puff of grey smoke coming from the throttle body and followed by (obviously) a rough idle. So basically, I know that any metal fragments were directly sucked into the intake and based on the size of the chipped area (roughly 1.5cm). I am wondering what type of internal damage this would (or already has) caused.
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My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
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My 97 Suburban died and will not start. Things I have done:
1 Changed fuel filter
2 Changed fuel pump twice
3 Checked fuel pressure 60psi
4 Changed plugs and wires
5 Changed rotor and cap
6 jumped switch to make sure pump runs
The Suburban will start only if I pour gas in the throttle body and will idle as long as I continue to pour gas in but will die when I quit.
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97 Sierra K1500, 5.7 liter. High pitched whistling sound underhood in the vicinity of the throttle body. Starts after truck warms up and quiets down when accelerating. I've wiggled hoses, disconnected what I could without stalling engine, checked air lines into throttle body, checked air filter, etc. Sound does not change when I apply brakes so I don't think it's related to master cylinder. The only time it changes is when I accelerate, then only gets quiet until I come back to steady speed.
Truck has 85,000, runs great. No codes.
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So i recently bought a used 2003 camry le 4cyl with 72k miles on it. So it's still in good condition. Previously I had a 92 camry 4cyl which is run with throttle cable. The new generation camry's now are drive by wire or driven electronically. So I decided to check out the whole car and looked into the throttle body, the out side of the butterfly plate, and notice some thick black substance. It seems like grease or oil. I don't know if its there to lubricate the motor to run the plate or just oil.
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When I had my heads replaced, the mechanic informed me that my cruise control cable was broken. News to me. It worked fine before. He said he couldn't find a replacement. I went to my local Ford parts dept. and they told me it was a discontinued item.
So I went online and ordered one from Direct Ford Parts and it did not match. The part number was FMC-F49Z9A825JA. In the parts catalog it says it fits 92-97. Not even close. The one I have has a screw off top and the one sent has a bolt on housing.
1997 Ford Aerostar 4.0 ... I really need my cruise control ...
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My 97 4.6 ran fine but the 4x4 light came on even when the transfer case lever was in 2wd. Then one day it would not start. It cranked over fine but would not fire. I added fuel but it didn't work. I pulled a spark plug lead and attached a spark plug while I jumped the solenoid and cranked over the engine to visually check for a spark as I have done on older trucks. Well it cranked a couple of times and then it died and won't even crank now, I must've fried something, the batterys fine. If there is a fuse or something? What could have happened when I jumped the solenoid?
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Just need to know how common this brake adjusting lever is? Awhile back I rebuilt my whole brake system and for some unknown reason the DS rear drum brake wants to keep over adjusting. Checked and double checked everything but can't see what would be causing it.
The fix has been to pull the wheel and drum and back off the adjuster but that's getting old. If I had more time and enthusiasm, I'd switch the shoes and hardware side to side to see if the problem follows the hardware. My solution for now is go with manual adjustment and to disable the DS adjuster by cutting off the end of the lever.
Before I hack up a lever I'd like to have a back up in case there is any problem. Not sure if the junkyard will have what I'm looking for and don't see the correct style lever on Rockauto or at my local parts places. My luck is to cut up a part that's hard to find.
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Ok, my shift lever is broken where the OD button is located. Not the cap and button, the whole end of the lever has snapped off.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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So I drive a 19 97 F150 v8 5.4 4x4 and while on the freeway I noticed that my overdrive button was blinking on the shift lever. The truck wasn't driving any different than usual, so Im just trying to figure out what this means.
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I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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