Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Terrible Noise When Turned On Heat / AC - Acorns In Fan Cage
Feb 14, 2016
I have a 2002 F-150 and started making terrible noise when turned on heat/ac. The fan cage was full of acorns and pieces of insulation in it. How can the squirrels get in there? I have looked and see no entrance, maybe just don't know where to look.
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Why I am getting such terrible gas mileage? The truck refuses to move off of 12 mpg. I made a 500 mile trip half of it at 70 mph running 2100 rpm. And when I filled up I calculated out 11.3 mpg. After that fill up hopped on the interstate and was running around 85 @ 2600 rpm expecting my mileage to drop even lower. Then i was on two lane hwy again constantly passing people and it only dropped to 11.1 mpg. Now no matter how easy I drive or how hard I drive it will not move over 12 mpg. Whether the tank is 100% hwy or 50/50. Its a 5 spd manual 4x4 with no modifications running the 4.6 v8. I just swapped air filters to a K&N and still no change.
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We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
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So now that it is winter, I have started to use the heater in the car. It works fine for about 10 minutes until a loud high pitched noise starts. Sounds like something is grinding. Any clue what it is? Is so, how to fix it?
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2 days ago, I was running my truck, and started the A/C. abut 3 mins into letting it run, it starting making this terrible squealing noise, with smoke and then it quit when I shut the A/C back off. The one side of the A/C line was SUPER HOT to the touch(on the driver side near the top of the radiator).
After doing some much needed research here on FTE, I did what was suggested and check the Air gap. it's about .026 give or take some. I pulled the faceplate of the clutch and there is no shim's behind the faceplate. The clutch moves when the A/C is off and also when the truck isn't running. Not completely freely, but not seized either.
Is this going to involve a new compressor and complete discharge? The only thing I could find that even closely resembled a washer was a snap ring inside the compressor housing. The faceplate with the spring load shows some metal to metal wear. I'm no einstein when it comes to A/C on auto's, but my bet is is on a new compressor..
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Yea, so early in the morning I turn on the radio am, and touch the heater/cool and the static is really bad. It's bad before I touch the heater on but is worse during.
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I just got the F150 ext cab 5.4 auto 235000 miles, and there is no heat and the fan only work on high. I am also changing all the coils plug and injectors. The guy I got the truck from said he never chanted them. I know it is going to be fun , soak the plugs and be careful. Any thing else I should know or do???
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1997 Ford f-150. No heat.
I have replaced Radiator (Leaking)
New heater core (Signs of leaking when I replaced it)
New blend door (Why not...I am already in there)
Actuator motor works fine
New thermostat.
Both heater core hoses are hot. (same temp, feels like)
My next step is going to be water pump. I read where some have replaced pump and found that although no leaks were found the fins were deteriorated to the point it would not work. Truck does not overheat. Coolant level is fine. Cab gets heat for a few seconds then quits.
Money is not an issue so I don't mind throwing a few parts at it. What other parts are left?
Temp. control switch
Water pump?
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I have a 97 f150 that only blows heat and I am wondering if the blendor is bad or is it something else that is causing the issiue
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my heat has suddenly quit woking getting hot. It has plenty of water, my heater hoses are not gettting hot.
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Every thing was working great then the AC quit. I ran through the air selector and all I can get is panel and defrost with no heat. I checked the vacuum line on the passenger side engine compartment and it looks good. Oh I also took the control apart and 3 of the five holes had vacuum to them.
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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Where the cabin air intake location is? I'm not talking about the air filter.
My 97 F150 has some sort of exhaust leak and it's coming into the cabin when the heat is on. I want to tape up the cabin air intake port but I don't know where it is. On later models, it's on the right passenger side near the cowl of the hood. Where is it on the 97?
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2001 F150 5.4 4wd - AC not working but when I turn the temperature dial to the blue side and turn on the fan, super hot air comes out of the vents or wherever I direct the fan to blow (Floor, defrost, etc) I know it shouldn't blow ice cold especially since my AC doesn't work but.....shouldn't I feel a temp change coming from the vents when I move temp dial from the red area to the blue? It's max heat wherever I have it set.
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About mid-October I noticed when it as real cold out and I had the heat running whenever I would come to a stop I noticed there is very little to no heat coming from the vents, despite the engine being warm and running at operating temps. At the time I was working for a shop and I asked one of the mechanics what the problem was. He said that it was the radiator not having enough coolant.
Turns out when we pulled the cap the coolant res, was just about bone dry. So we added in about a gallon or so of coolant with the truck running and sure enough at idle the heat was back.
Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and when I am sitting at idle again same thing happens. So somehow the engine is losing coolant. Its not ending up in the oil (no white on the dipstick) and there is not a coolant leak. As it sits there is 255,300 miles on the truck now. 1999 5.4L F150....
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2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
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I found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
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My 2001 f150 super crew, the heat only works on speeds 1-3. All 4 speeds blow air fine, I'm talking about the temperature. not the blower. Could it be the heat resistor?
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew 5.4 liter. About mid winter my heat suddenly went from hot to lukewarm. A check of the fluids shows all is good. I use my truck solely for work so I didn't bother with it at the time. Summer is here and my AC blows kinda cold, at best. I can hear the blend door moving. The temp control does make a huge difference. It just doesn't get real cold or real hot. Not like it should.
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I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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