Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Tail Lights Slow To Come On
Dec 3, 2012
I have a 98 f150 that I don't drive often. I had it out tonight and realized the my brake lights wouldn't come on unless I pressed the peddle down hard. Does the switch work off of pressure? They used to come on as soon as I would touch the peddle.
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My '99 F150 is having wiring issues. It started with a left flasher being fast and the rear bulb not working. I put in new bulb and that didn't fix it. Then I realized that I also had no tail lights. The reverse lights are good and the brake lights work too.
So far I have searched for and repaired suspicious splices done by PO, added a ground wire that was cut off from the trailer wiring harness, checked every fuse that I could with an ohmmeter and I pulled the multi function switch and tested it with an ohmmeter also. It tested fine but I did find one of the female pin connectors had pulled out of the harness. I managed to get it back in and seemed to click into place alright. Somewhere over the course of all that I now have both sides of my flashers fast and still no tail lights. Good news is that I haven't broken my brake lights or reverse lights yet.
Could I have a bad flasher relay? Earlier in the process I did have my 4 way flashers working correctly and a couple times I even had the turn signals going. Now, none of the rear blinking lights work but the front ones go 90 to nothing and I still have no tail lights. My truck does have the auto lamp thing.
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I just bought a 97 Dodge Ram 1500. The Tail lights work when I just have running lights on, but don't work when I pull the light switch out far enough for the headlights to come on. Also, and probably related, the dashboard and radio lights don't work at all. I replaced the switch assembly already and that didn't fix the problem (i didn't use the supplied wiring though, only the switch). The previous owner used it to pull his boat so the rear end may have been backed into the water. The brake and reverse lights.
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4 5.4 ex cab. The last few months, the back of my truck has been bouncing bad. Speed doesn't matter, every bump will make the back end bounce like crazy, heck even dropping or closing the tail gate will make it bounce. I've replaced the shocks at all 4 corners, rear shocks have been replaced with 3 different sets trying to rule out bad shocks out of the box, new leaf springs and shackles and hangers look good. I've checked the cab mounts, checked for cracks in the frame or anything loose. It has me stumped.
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He has a 98 F150 4x4 and the tail lights are staying on all the time. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called) but that didn't solve the problem. So now he has been taking the fuse out every time he stops, just so the lights will go off. When he puts the fuse back in, the tail lights stay on all the time, but his widows will not roll down. The windows roll down when the brake fuse is out.
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I have a 97 F250 HD. Wiring the rear tail lights. When we bought it the had cut off the wires going to both sides of the rear lighting assemblys and I was wondering what wire went to what i have the left turn signal working just can't seem to get the brake/back up light to work on that side and i can't figure out how to get the right side going either.
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My DD just developed a head gasket leak. I've been noticing a coolant smell for a few days and today saw lots of white smoke from the tail pipe. I figured this is where my coolant was going and sure enough there is coolant coming from the driver's side head. I've ordered the gaskets and new bolts, but need the install.
I think mostly what I will need is the intake and head bolt torque and sequence. I will need to take a few days off work to get it done. Truck is a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L engine.
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I have a 2003 Ford f150 5.4. Heater blows hot, then cold, then hot then cold. When it start blowing cold it pukes out the degas bottle. I have burped it, did the combustion test to make sure not a blown head gasket, the oil clean, there is moisture coming out tail pipe but it has no coolant in it. flushed heater core, pulled water pump off and checked it, its good. Changed thermostat 2 times, put front on ramps to get any air out. I am at a total loss now.
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My windshield wipers on my 97 f150 go very slow. Not sure if it's bad motors or what but I find it weird for them both to go at the same time. Is there a relay that could be causing this?
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I have a 97 F150 with a 4.2. It has started to surge or stall out when I slow down sometimes. It doesn't do this all the time. I replaced the fuel filter about 2 mths ago and replaced the fuel pressure regulator then also. Would the tps have anything to do with it? I haven't had a scan done yet. Thought I would try here first because at one time someone has removed the two cats and the check engine is on all the time.
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I have a 03 Passat with the 1.8T motor. I'm having a problem where the tail lights / brake lights will not turn off. Which fuse to remove so that I can save my battery.
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My 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
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Today I noticed when I was parking at work that my back tail lights don't seem that bright. When I apply the brakes and such or the backup lights are very bright, but just the normal tail lights didn't seem to come off as that bright. At night they may appear brighter but this morning in cloudy overcast sky's with some light snow falling I am not sure if the person behind could have seen my taillights at all. I have a 2003 Impala LS, it's just over 102,000 miles. Is there a way to test to see if your back taillights are bright enough or is there a way to increase how bright they are when on?
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OK, after some bearing issues I replaced the crankshaft with a reman. The engine is now in, but it is not turning over like I think it should. It just feels too tight, and cranks slow. It cranks smooth, nothing hitting. It is hard to turn with a wrench on the front bolt. I am wondering if I messed up on the torque on the rod bearings.
I torqued them according to the book. First to 29 to 33 ft lbs, then rotated an additional 90 to 120 degrees. I went with the lower of the numbers, 29 foot pounds then an additional 90 degrees. The mains I tightened to 30 ft. lbs. then an additional 90 degrees.
Are these the correct specs? I did smear a little grease on the main journals before installing, but did not do this for the rods as the book says. Is this maybe something to do with my issue?
I did not measure with plastiguage to see, I didn't realize I was out of the stuff and didn't want to drive 50 miles away to get some! I am also wondering if heating up the bearings on one rod journal might have warped the rod and is binding not allowing it to turn. I did notice when I put it back together it turned a little hard, but figured it would be ok once it started.
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I have a 03 f150 2wd with the 4.6l. Recently it has been slow shifting into reverse(about 2 full seconds) and when it finally gets in reverse it shudders when it comes under load. The fluid is full and not burnt...
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I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
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I have a 1998 f150 xlt, supercab, 4x4, 4.6 Romeo (truck production date is 12/97). And I have a oil leak.
Its on the drivers side of the engine. There is a nipple on the head, next to the firewall, directly above where the exhaust pipe and exhaust manifold meet. It looks to have some sort of bolt/flush stud inside the nipple. I have oil seeping by the bolt/stud and leaking onto my exhaust pipe. its a constant but slow drip.
What this is or how to fix it? Is this a common problem? I can take a pic but cant find my camera at the moment.
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I have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
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I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
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All, i have an issue ( or at least i think its an issue) with my 99 f150 5.4. When i use my cruise control, i notice when i put on the brakes slightly to slow down, it feels like its not coasting because you can feel the engine still engaged and wont coast. I think this happens even without the cruise on. What this could be? I have the latest update on the cruise control harness. I believe that was for power always to it even in off, causing fires.
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