Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Super Sluggish Power And Vibration Out Of Nowhere
Oct 12, 2012
My truck was running awesome, until, Out of NOWHERE, she started feeling super sluggish with a lot of loss of power, sounds like she is misfiring,or out of timing, and all the sudden started vibrating, the harder I accelerate, the more the vibrates.
When I start her up, she idles fine.If I try to drive her,givin he gas is like pulling a trailer with the e brake on, and she starts to vibrate. I've looked at some websites that have diagnostics from Bad timing, to spark plug wires, to plugs, to a bad fuel pump.
So I did what any other self diagnosing guy would do, I hooked up an actron scanner to see what codes she pulled up. Below are the specks of my truck, and the codes the actron scanner gave me. It just shows me codes, and have no way to interpret them..
BTW, I parked the truck till I find out what the hell I an do to fix her, not many mechanics where I live, so It looks like I'll be going at it alone.
So for the vibration, I checked the obvious, tires and rods are good and tight,had someone check the rotation, and its not alignment or balance.
Truck: '97 F-150
4.6L FI V8, SOHC 16V
Short Bed 4x4
Codes:
P0155
P0401
P0153
P0155
P1151
P0308
P1000
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My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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2000 f150 4x4 5.4 7700 series. Problem I am having is taking off from a stop sign the engine feels like its not getting any fuel especially when out side temp gets above 90 or some higher, truck runs great other then that ,expected fuel mileage is good,no codes at all, doesn't miss or jump..
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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I have a 98 expedition with the 4.6l 4x4 and it has 158,000 on the dash had a new engine installed at 100,000 it started running rough and sluggish last week so I changed out the spark plugs and while changing the plug I notice oil on the threads of the two rear passenger side plugs. After the new plugs it was smoking pretty bad blueish white smoke. I figured it was the oil from around the threads that had leaked into the cyl.
The smoked cleared after 2 days and ran great for a week. Now its doing the same thing again real rough idle and and its extremely sluggish. I can put the pedal to the floor and she barely wants to move almost like the tranny is going out but the rough idle leads me to believe its and engine problem. I have the check engine light on but can't get any codes. I also tried checking for vacuum leaks by spraying either round the intake and vacuum lines and didn't notice any change in rpms so I'm guess the vacuum is fine.
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I have a 2001 F150 4x4 supercrew XLT 4.6 with 150,000 miles. I have a few things happening in the truck, and although it is still running for now, I would like to get ahead of this before something catastrophic happens, and I don't know if everything is related, or everything is falling apart separately.
1. I have been noticing a burning smell coming from under the hood after driving, every time I drive, but no noticeable leaks, and oil level is fine. I have seen light smoke coming from the exhaust but inconsistently. A mechanic said it was probably the valve cover seals leaking to the manifold, but I would think there would eventually be less oil on the dipstick?
2. When on the gas, over 2200 RPMish, the air and AC switches to defrost. It seems like a vacuum line leak somewhere, but can't find it.
3. Generally, the truck seems sluggish, sometimes unwilling to shift gears or accelerate at freeway speeds. Not sure if its the transmission going out again (had it replaced at 125000), or spark plugs?
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I have a 2009 6.4L F250 with 153k miles on it. Yesterday I drove from downtown Dallas north to McKinney (about 40 miles) and truck was running fine. Left approx. 3 hours later for dinner and the check engine light came on and truck ran very sluggish with hardly any power. Had it checked at auto zone today and got the P040D Exhaust Gas Recirculation temperature A circuit high DTC. I can get the part but not sure if I can replace it myself.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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2003 f250 6.0.... recently did oil cooler,hpop,ipr,icp,fuel pump,egr valve, rebuilt the turbo.... when around 35mph truck seems sluggish and doesnt seem to pick up quick untill i floor it an then hauls butt.. vgt reading at idle is 62% and when floored around 30 to 35%.. fuel pressure is 63psi.. ipr is around 60 to 70% when floored and around 25% at idle. Hpop reading when floored is 3000 to 4000psi and idle is 624psi....
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7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
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I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
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Lately I have been having problems loosing power. Truck wants to miss mostly going up hill and runs sluggish I'll pull off the road and let it idle for a minute and it will run fine. And it is only occasionally some days it don't happen at all and other days it happens quit often. New fuel filter, oil is good, had it on the scanner and isn't throwing any codes. Around 230k miles newer injectors.
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
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The truck is a 1997 F250 light duty extended cab with the 4.6 triton v8. The motor appears to run smooth and idles good, from my perspective. It accelerates smoothly, as well, and seems to cruise at an otherwise smooth rate. Until I hit around 50. Then it transitions right into a shake, or vibration. I know I need to be more specifc with the symptoms here, but it's pretty hard to feel where it's coming from. I feel it in the steering wheel, but also, it feels like the whole truck. My dog, oddly enough, will look at the center floor with his head tilted, when it starts to vibrate, I know he's got a better sense of hearing then me.
So, up to about 60 and over that it seems to go away. Sink back down below 60, vibration is back. below 50, seems to go away. It does it in and out of overdrive, does it when I pop it into neutral, but when truck speed goes down below 50 or over 60 for the most part, under various said stimuli, the vibration fades away. I'll also add that the vibration increases substantially with greater acceleration...The more gas I give it, the worse it seems to get, but still, only within the 50 to 60 range. Not as bad when cruising and/or coasting, but still vibrates regardless. Otherwise, acceleration from dead stop and over 60 is good.
So far, I rotated the tires and only difference I noticed after this was a little bit of a shimmy at 40 to about 43 mph that wasn't there before I rotated the tires. They probably need to be balanced, but the vibration at 50 to 60 doesn't seem to be tire related. The 50 to 60 mph thing is more like an overall vibration. I'm thinking driveshaft maybe? I checked the u-joints and they seem pretty tight...no movement I could feel by hand. I also check the front end a little bit, and tried to see if anything looked or felt funny, like any excessive play in the ball joints or tie rods, etc. That all appeared okay.
So, for now, I just try to avoid 50 to 60 mph. Harder then one would think...you end up either getting tailed or tailing someone. I guess that's all for now. If you need more info, I'll try to get it to this post as soon as I get a chance. Also, not sure of the trans I have. You all probably know better then me, but once I get a chance to check, will let you know. I don't think it's trans related or torque converter. I am not slipping or knocking, but forgot to check the trans fluid, which I will also update the condition of that when I get a chance.
Also, engine seems to run smooth. I didn't change out the plugs or wires per what I would think normal maintenance, but have nightmares of doing the plugs and breaking one. especially on these tritons. I had a e350 with the 5.4? that blew a plug and stripped out the threads. This 4.6 doesn't look any friendlier to navigate, with the fuel rails in the way and all. But if that is the problem and needs to be done, well, I'll get it done if I have to. But, like I said, idles well and accelerates up to 50 fine...no ticking or unusual sounds, at least that I notice.
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1999 F150 has a tremble or vibration between 27 and 40 MPH it does it in any gear but only between these speeds. I thought to begin with it might be a slight misfire, but seems like if that was the cause it would happen at any speed...
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I have 2002 5.4L f150 120k miles. Bought it almost 2 years ago and did not notice this vibration at the time but it could have been there and I didn't realize it. The trans was replaced by ford with a reman at 90k. I'd assume they inspected the trans mounts but who knows.
At idle only, there is a vibration. Enough that I can see water in a bottle moving and a plastic bag shake., felt through the seat, hand on engine can feel it, can feel it through the door..etc. Very annoying. At 700-750 rpm it goes away. Happens in all gears. I don't want to shotgun approach this. What I've done: Replaced plugs and coils since it needed them anyway. They looked good! No difference. I've sprayed the maf down and cleaned the throttle plate (I know your not supposed to but some 16 year old will try to tell me it cured his idle and he gained 10 mpg, so I figured I would mention it). I've removed the IAC and cleaned it, plunger moves freely. My idle does not fluctuate. I have watched mode $6, it's not a misfire. I have removed the pcv hose and checked for cracks - it's in good shape. Replaced the pcv since it's cheap. Ran Chevron tehcron through it. Checked codes - nothing. I have an edge and it happens on all tunes as well as stock.
I have ability to read live data but do not know enough to interpret it, so that is about useless unless you can provide me acceptible ranges.
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I have a 1999 F-150, 4.2L V6 with 206,000 miles that recently developed a rear-end shudder/vibration. According to my door jam axle code (27) and the axle tag (3 37), I have what appears to be a conventional rear differential, even though most of my research would indicate this rear-end is for the F-250. In any case, and based on other online research, I changed the differential oil with a 75W-140 synthetic and added 4oz of a friction modifier. Now the vibration appears to be worse. It primarily vibrates when taking off from a stop, whether turning or not.
I have felt the vibration at speeds up to 60mph, but it is more noticeable at lower speeds. The vibration also seems to diminish after driving the truck for longer periods of time, particularly if at highway speeds. In other words, when I drive to and from work, which is about 30 minutes each way of mostly highway, the vibration is barely noticeable once I exit the highway and slow back down to 35-40mph. When feeling the vibration, if I decelerate, the vibration immediately ceases, but starts again when I accelerate. It's not as noticeable if I accelerate harder, but I generally don't do that. The gears inside the differential didn't have any noticeable wear, chips or slop/play. What may be plaguing my usual trouble-free F150?
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Last August I bought a 2002 Ford F 150 extended cab 4x4 only until the weather got really cold did I start noticing this kind of like almost vibration or like the rear end is slipping but it doesn't happen all the time it only happens when I take off but once I get driving then it goes away...
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