I've got 2003f150 4x4 and had a fender bender front end out of line so had it lined up but steering wheel 180 degrees out..well watched a video about just adjusting drag link..so i crawled under ready to adjust but cant find an adjustment collar. Mine the only one without it?
View 10 RepliesIs there a way to move the wheel higher than the highest setting? I like to keep the seat at its highest and its difficult getting in and out of the truck.
View 9 RepliesMy son sent me a text stating "mom is driving with the steering wheel at 90 degrees to the left!". I had to get this repaired ASAP. I thought maybe a tie rod went bad and maybe went further. Steering had been off slightly to left prior.
Firestone said that when they went to check alignment, they found that the strut tower was gone. I knew it had to be on the right side. The passenger strut tower rusted through at the mid rear, and broke the spot welds, and was not attached at most of its circumference. Fortunately, the body shop that repaired our van from a prior damage.(hit at stoplight). I replaced the struts about a year or two ago with quick struts. Did not even think of checking for this rusting issue.
Just got my golf R 4 door/Nav. When driving straight on the highway (regardless of road crown)... my wheel was about 4 degrees off to the left. No problem alignment wise, but the nice flat bottom wheel is cockeyed.
Car has only 330 miles on it. Took it back to the dealership, they put it on the alignment rack - actually had me sit in the car ensuring the wheel was straight as the tech adjusted the Tie Rods below.
This made it better - I instantly noticed it was better when I took a short test ride with the tech, just as they were closing. However, on the highway home I noticed its still about 2 degrees to the left. Really frustrating as now I have to take it back to the dealer a second time.
The tech actually showed me the alignment printout which was close to-but not totally perfect. Said the only way to make it perfect is to adjust the sub-frame? Really? on a new vehicle.
I do have plans to mod the car's suspension with H&R Coilovers - but will not touch anything until I get this wheel thing square and I am 100% satisfied.
Had mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
I noticed after the crash the steering wheel is moved forward and gear shift is up against dash. asked around and one person said they made collapsable steering wheels to impact. i have never heard of such a thing.
View 5 RepliesI want to replace my steering wheel. Will this puller work for that job?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
View 3 RepliesAt center, my truck is able to turn 2 1/2 revolutions to the right and only 1 1/4 turns to the left. Making sharp left turns is not possible currently. What needs to be adjusted in order to get the steering centered and even?
View 4 RepliesI have a 97 F150 that I just got a few weeks ago. I was driving home Wed. night when the 4x4 low range light would come on and off intermittently I had it in 2h the whole time. I went online and couldn't really find anything on it. So I get up to go to work on Thursday and the truck wouldn't even turn over. The battery was dead. I have put in a new one but now after turning the truck off I hear a clicking sound coming from the steering wheel. What this may be?
View 3 RepliesGetting some rain here in az causing me to use my windshield wipers....which is rare. I can once and for all say I'm sick of the wipers working only with the steering wheel in the "up" position. Is it a big deal to tear into the column and replace that stinking multi-switch/harness? 378000 miles ....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford F150 XLT 4X2 that has a "clunking/squeaking" noise in the steering wheel, intermittent happens driving straight down the road, hitting bumps, breaking. It is very annoying! changed out lower ball joints tightened wheel bearings, greased idler/pitman arm thinking that was the problem and it became worse. Had someone look at it and stated that the steering shaft was welded?!?! Why would the steering shaft be welded what am I looking at in replacing it (cost for parts and labor time) and are there any other additional parts that will have to be replaced as well?
View 1 RepliesI've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
I've searched and can only find instructions/details on 6.4L and older Super Duty trucks. The process is the same to adjust the gear box for a 6.7L?
View 5 Repliesmy turn signals only work with the steering wheel tilted all the way up. It works for me, but my wife drives the truck mostly because we live a mile from her work. The dealer said it was a "peanut connector." And can someone walk me through the steps to fixing it?
View 8 RepliesLooking for diagrams for where the fuel filter is, the coils are in the engine compartment, and a steering wheel diagram because mine wobbles. I did attempt to look for one in a hayes when I was at Pep Boys a bit ago and didn't see one. 1998 F150 4.6L v8 w/auto trans 4wd 3dr...
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a 1998 f-250, regular cab, long bed, 4x4, 5.4l triton, automatic. The truck was involved in a wreck by the previous owner and I am trying to repair the damage. He hit some ice, slid off the road, and collided with a log cabin.
The visible damage was done to the driver side front. The bumper, grill/surround, header panel, headlight, turn signal, fender, and hood all need to be replaced. When you drive the truck there is a shimmy coming from the front that can be felt in the steering wheel. When going straight and releasing the steering wheel it pulls to the passenger side. The driver side front rim might be bent? Which might prove interesting if I have to replace it (7x150mm).
This is my first Ford truck. I was willing to take the gamble on fixing it up. I hope that it works out and I am able to do so. What years/models can I source these parts from?
I have a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4 L Trition it shuts off while driving the steering wheel locks up when the truck shuts off I tried everything and it doesn't seem to help the problem. I changed the Iacv idle air control valve,I had a bad o2 sensor changed that, changed the crank sensor, cleaned the throttle body and changed the Tps sensor, got a new battery, changed the vacuum lines.i really don't know what else to do this truck is becoming a nightmare and is dangerous to drive I never know when it's going to shut off and when it does shut off sometimes it starts right up and other times it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesWorking on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
Purchased 2000 F150 (224000 miles) about a year go cheap for knock around truck. Only gets driven about twice week (20 miles most). Has been running great until recently. Got in the other day went about a mile and notice really strong vibration in steering wheel and dash. First thought about something to do with alignment etc. After a little experimentation realized it was the motor. When you get to around 40 mph and try to hold the speed constant it starts shaking (I believe the motor is missing). If you mash the gas and accelerate it stops. As soon as you try to hold constant speed again it starts again. I can run it up to say 45 and let off the gas and the shaking stops. Once it was driven like this for about 5 miles or so, when I come to stop sign it idles rough. If it is put in neutral runs smoother. Could the fuel filter be clogging up? I did try some additive to see if it would clean it out, no luck. Now the check engine soon lite came on. Fuel Filter, Plugs?
View 5 Replies'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.