Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Starts But Not Idle?
Jul 7, 2012
So, I don't use my F150 too much and an animal made a nest int the intake tract and the nest material (chewed up air filter) got sucked in the throttle body all the way to IAC valve. So I thought I cleaned everything out, even got a new IAC. It starts now but just dies. I didn't remove the throttle body, should I? Where else do you think I could I find this stuff?
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I have recently acquired a 1997 F250 LD (same body as the 150)the exhaust system is screwed(currently rebuilding it due to some IDIOT trying to cut out the cats with a grinder and cutoff wheel) and it won't idle (runs alright with a little finessing of the throttle) but after I get the exhaust rebuilt to where the O2 sensors get the proper flow I was going to clean the IAC valve but was wondering if the exhaust not feeding right would cause idle issues a well. Put things in a nutshell...the truck will run but will not idle. IAC Probs, Exhaust Probs, or combination of both??
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i have a 97 ranger xl with 2.3. it was recently crashed in the front, air bags deployed. i fixed the bodywork but couldn't get it to run properly. it starts but will not idle. i have replaced the iac , evr , maf. fuel pressure holds 35-40 psi running does not leak down after engine stops
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Truck starts right up. Will die if I dont give it some gas for about 5 seconds of so. No check engine lights. I did leave the hood open yesterday adn the auto sprinklers came on. I completely forgot about it. I check the air filter before I started it and its dry so I dont feel its water intrusion. I shot a quick burst of carb cleaner in the IAC and then reinstalled it. No joy. When running it will idle and runs fine. If I unplug the IAC it stumbles and almost dies. Any way to test the IAc, TPS or MAF sensor ? I hate just throwing parts at them without diagnosing them properly.
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I started having trouble with the truck only starting in neutral and it was a trick to get it to start even then. I bought a new range sensor, bolted her up (with alignment marks in neutral) and she's still doing the same thing.
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We have a 2003 Ford F250 Super Duty, gas engine. This will start fine, then a day later, it won't. Wait 30 minutes, then it starts.
Starter and battery are fine. It acts like it isn't getting fuel. Fuel pump? Filter? What else might cause this?
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Transmission problems 2002 f150 lariat... Once I get up to about 50 mph the truck starts jerking around..
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I come over from the old school forum (48-60) with a question about a new to me 1999 F150 XLT 5.4L, 4x4, Auto. Truck has ran awesome for a couple of days. Truck has in excess of 410,000 miles but don't let that mislead. I believe the engine has been replaced sometime along the way. Yesterday I was driving and it just stumbled and stopped. After sitting for 5 minutes it started again, stumbled and stopped.
Today I checked the following:
- Fuel pump/relay - both work
- Dropped gas tank and replaced fuel pump strainer and fuel filter
- Fuel pressure at rail remains steady
- No codes present and no SES/CEL on.
Could this be a plugged EGR valve or IAC valve? I have had similar issues on Tauruses but it always threw a code when it did. Could this indicate a cat issue?
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Ran for a month just fine. Now it will only start after being jumped. Everything worked just fine.... What should I test first?
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I went to walmart and let the engine run for a while and shut it off. It would not start until it cools off. Now that its cool it starts fine. It just started doing it. Come to think of it i did get some gas in it.
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Doing some research for my dad, we got a 2001 F150 with the 4.2L v6. Recently, we've been having an intermittent starting problem. It'll start, run & drive perfectly with no problem some days. Then some days the truck wont start. It will crank perfectly fine, sometimes start & then run rough for about 5 seconds then die again. Usually happens when the truck is warmed up & has been started, driven & shut off multiple times. We've replaced the fuel filter & the pcv valve i believe & still no luck. We take it to our mechanic & it starts right up every time for him. This problem has me, my dad & our mechanic stumped.
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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Why my truck shake/ vibrates only at high speeds above 65mph. Once I drop below 65 is smooth as can be.
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I recently sold me 91 F-250 and got into a 98 F-150. It's a SuperCab 6.5' bed, 4x4 off-road, 3.55 gears, 5.4 v8 auto. I love the truck, but I am having an issue with a noise at startup.
Every time I start the truck it fires right up but it makes a grinding noise AFTER it starts for about 3-5 seconds. I thought the starter wasn't disengaging in time so I replaced it. The starter I took off was fairly new. It's teeth had just a little wear and the flywheel had no visible wear. I put in the new starter and there was no change at all.
I also changed the oil and filter using Motorcraft 5w-30 oil and a Motorcraft filter. I also started it without the serpentine belt to rule out a pulley bearing. What the noise could be? The truck runs absolutely excellent, by the way.
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I am having some weird issues with my 2000 F150. When I turn the key all the dash lights go out and no start. Ran 2 wires from the solenoid to a switch and it will eventually start. The starter will start real slow almost like the battery is almost dead and then speeds up more and more till it eventually starts. After it starts the theft light stays on the whole time. At this point I have no clue what is going on.
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If I don't keep in the throttle immediately after start up it will stall a lot of the time. It doesn't do this every time or if it sits for a while but if I drive it and then stop off at a store or something and then go to start it back up it gives me this problem. I notice it idles about 3-4k RPM's when I stop at a light or something too.
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I have a 2001 f350 7.3 diesel, I am looking at switching out the air intake? Also, I have an issue with the code for a dual upper and lower generator fault.. I checked and only have one generator not a dual system.. The alternator is running strong at 14.1.. But I have noticed when I start it up it is down to 12..
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We just purchased a 2003 Ford Lightning with 114,000 miles on it. Had oil changed. Had to get floor master mufflers attached back on. Ever since then now when it gets up to 65-70 mph it starts a terrible rattling noise , almost sounds like a spark knock. Truck starts riding very rough. We have have only run premium fuel and even put in some gas treatment to see if this works, it hasn't, only getting worse. We are currently out of town and trying to make it home but don't want to cause any major damage to it. All the gauges are fine. Just the rattling and shaking...
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I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
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I have an issue with my 7.3.... the truck will not start if it sits overnight without being plugged in, even in 65 degree weather. It starts and runs with a rough idle for about 10 seconds after its been plugged in for an hour, after the rough idle is gone it runs great .. it will Stat back up as long as the truck is warm (70+).... I've replaced the batteries, glow plugs, starter (it was going bad) and fuel filter. .. also replaced the gpr today. ....
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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