Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Starter Won't Click - Power Door Locking / Unlocking When Trying To Start
Nov 1, 2012
My mom has a 2001 f150 with a 5.0. Had never had any problems with it till this week. She says it wont click or anything. When she tries to start it, the power door locks go to locking & unlocking. She said the battery is good. I figured probably the starter. She lives about 2 1/2 hours from me. I figured I would go down there and take the starter off and have it checked or rebuilt. Anybody ever had their power locks to go to moving when you try to start the truck. Also, when she turns the key on, her dash lights come on just like normal. Just won't turn over or click or anything.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
View 3 Replies
I'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
View 5 Replies
Well, it seems like it. Bought new, now has under 20k miles. Car starts and runs great to a destination. Stop, shop, start up and drive off. Then, while in traffic, the door locks (4) start locking and unlocking rapidly on their own, then the car will bog down and is unresponsive to the gas pedal. Seconds later, the engine will rev to high rmps momentarily and then lurch forward to a normal speed and it will seem fine for 10 or 20 seconds. Then it repeats the process. It has happened 3 times in the past year. Wife is terrified to drive the car. All three times we took it immediately to the dealer. The second time, it happened there, as they were taking out back. As of this date, the dealer is unable to identify the problem...no codes. It was in for recall in 2014 for the BCM connection repair. It has gotten a new battery 2 yrs ago, and a new key. It has always been dealer serviced. Since it happens in traffic, and my wife is driving we do not know what dash lights indicators pop up, she is trying to keep safe. It's now been in the dealer, this time, for 5 days, nothing!
View 4 Replies
Renee said her barn door lock stopped locking and unlocking with the key, so I checked the connecting rod from the cylinder to the actuator and found it had broke off the cylinder. I also found a small metal clip of some sort laying loose in the area beneath the actuator.
I checked the 'net and couldn't find any good, close up pics of each end of the rod to see how it's attached. I did find a YouTube vid of the actuator area, but when the goombah in the vid started talking, I thought to myself, that voice sounds familiar! So I scrolled down the page and what do I see? Apocs pic and name, showing it was uploaded by Jon, LOL.
Anyway, can someone remove that back plastic panel on the rear hatch and take a few pictures of the connecting rod and how it connects to the actuator? I know I have to replace the plastic/metal tab that connects the rod to the cylinder, but that opposite end, the actuator end, has me a bit perplexed.
View 14 Replies
My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
View 1 Replies
My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
View 9 Replies
I just bought an 03 f250 5.4l . I'm just using it to plow my driveway this winter. The starter just clicks , after multiple attempts it will start. The previous owner said it's been like that for a long time but always starts.
I'd like to fix this now while it's warm out , before I buy a starter I'm wondering if I should look into other causes and how to trouble shoot the issue.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2000 ford windstar LX. When i drive it, the door chime sensor comes on and off randomly and door starts locking unlocking. Happens more often when the road is bumpy or when i brake hard.
Per the local dealer I changed all four door actuators (the front one had stopped working) . All four door actuators are brand new and working but the issue still exists.
What should be my next steps in troubleshooting? Is there a way to simply disconnect these door chime sensor?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2005 GLI which seems to have an issue with intermittent door locks. Sometimes when I press the unlock/lock button they will unlock/lock, other times they won't. It also seems to be random as to which doors will unlock/lock. Opening them from inside works just fine.
The dealer said that the door lock control modules probably need to be replaced. I remember seeing a while back that there was a way to fix these as the problem really was some solder within the control module.
View 9 Replies
I'm slowly reading through the ES-350 manual, picking and choosing parts to read. There are several 'Personalized Preferences' that I've noted down and will have addressed at my 1st month service.
I noticed on pg. 21 of the manual that there are settings to set and cancel the door-locking/unlocking functions. These functions are also mentioned in the 'Personalized Preferences' section, so there is overlap here (on paper anyways).
Anyways I tried a couple of times to follow the instructions on pg. 21 to disable the door locking and unlocking when the car is placed in Park and Neutral.
It didn't work for me. The instructions aren't all that clear to me, nor of what they are supposed to accomplish. I'd like to not have the doors lock when I place the shift out of Park and not have the doors unlock when I place the shift into Park.
View 6 Replies
I just bought a 2001 f150 supercrew. I was told that the locking mechanism didn't work right so I took off the door panel. I can tell when using the power locks that the actuator is weak and probably needs replacing. I also noticed that there is not cable or rod going to the actual door lock, that is to say where you put the key in the door to unlock or lock the door. Need a picture of what this locking system should look like? I assume that for some reason I am missing the rod that goes from the actuator to the door lock. And I can't just look at the passenger side because it is the same way.
View 3 Replies
My drivers door won't unlock and lock sometimes. It goes off and on. And it's starting to do it more often. Sometimes the beep won't make a sound too when I lock it. Only locks with manually putting the key in. I've tried to use my other key but it didn't work.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2003 ford f150 supercrew. The problems that I am having is first, my door locks will unlock just fine on the key fob and on the door switch inside the cab but they will not lock at all. I've checked the fuses and everything and cant find the problem. it did this one other time then one day there was a pop from in the dash and they started working.
The second issue that I am having is my 4x4 doesn't work all the time. i turn the switch on the dash and the 4x4 light comes on and i can hear a click but then i have nothing so I took it to my mechanic and he said it was probably the shift fork but he wouldn't know til he took it apart. so i decided to hold off then the 4x4 worked fine for a couple weeks if it was my shift fork would my 4x4 still work sometimes? could these problems be related?
View 7 Replies
2003 supercrew. Could this be because of a switch, fuse, etc?
View 3 Replies
I got the car running again, so no need to go into details on that (I used the physical key on the keyfob, you really do have to turn it further than you'd think, but that got me into the car, after several tries was able to get it to stop cycling through the locking/unlocking and was able to jump it).
Got the 12v battery in my Prius replaced by the dealership in the last 2 years. Last winter, one day my Prius refused to start even though it had been running fine earlier that day and was parked in a semi-heated garage. Jumped it and got it working.
Last Friday I went to get out of my car and my Prius kept beeping at my any time I had the door open, and the clock on the dash seemed to be a little dim. I doubled checked that the keyfob was in my pocket (and not in the holder thingy), eventually the car seemed to lock fine and I went up to my apartment. Didn't drive the car until this morning.
This morning I come down to find that keyless entry does not work, nor does pressing the unlock button on the keyfob. (The car is parked in heated underground parking fyi.) About every 1 second on repeat, the car is making this sound like it makes when you hit the lock/unlock button from the inside of the car, so it seemed like it was stuck in an endless loop of locking or unlocking. I go back upstairs, leave my key fob in my apartment (which is around 300 meters away or so), come back down - it's still on the loop making that sound.
I get into the car with the physical door key, try starting it - the lights will come on but the car doesn't seem to actually start. And the endless lock/unlock loop starts up against once I turn the car "off". I got upstairs and switch to my other backup keyfob. Come back down. Car is still in the endless loop. Try to start it again, car still doesn't seem to start, but this time when I turn it "off" the endless lock/unlock cycle finally stops. Do finally get it running by jumping the battery, then it seems to run fine.
So I bring it to the dealer, and the guy their rather vehemently insist there must be something wrong with my keyfob. First he immediately confidently assures me that I just need to replace the battery in the keyfob, which makes no sense. Then he changes to saying he thinks the lock button on the keyfob was stuck down, which doesn't make sense either as like I said it continued doing it even when I removed any keyfob from being anywhere near the car.
View 19 Replies
I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
View 1 Replies
Have a 97 Ford explorer. Over 270,000 miles on it. Recently had Crank sensor, Crank case vent tube, plugs wires replaced along with intake manifold gaskets. Also had fuel injectors cleaned out. Now i cant get it to turn over. Went to store, truck started fine, came out and click. Thought it might be the battery even though its also brand new but no, had the starter checked, it is also good. Put test light on all electrical having to do with starter and found all hot wires and good grounds. Finally bypassed the solenoid for starter and still nothing but a click. I also checked NSS to see if that might be it but after putting it in reverse, the reverse lights came on, and even jiggled shifter in park and neutral to see if that might work but still just a click. Not sure where to go from here short of buying all new parts but doesn't make much sense to do that if they all appear to be working properly. Don't have a volt meter to check voltage.
View 5 Replies
Ok so I was looking at my blend door actuator motor to see if it was working. Just took off the bottom vent cover, turned key on and moved the air mixture to see if the motor worked. (it didn't) Then I went to start the truck and all I get is the solenoid on the firewall click each time I turn the key. I put a meter on the opposite side of solenoid and I see 12v across the solenoid. I can't image i did anything while playing around by the blend door actuator motor. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that the next logical step is starter and starter solenoid. Is there anything else I could be missing? is there anything else in that circuit between the solenoid on the firewall and the starter? I also cleaned the battery terminals and the terminals down on the starter solenoid. I also tapped the starter a bunch and put a charger on battery and tried jumping the truck too. Everything else works.
View 10 Replies
I have a '99 F-150 SC, 4x4, 4.6L, with 48,000 miles. I drove approximately 15 miles, then parked for 20 minutes. When I returned, the truck wouldn't do anything when the key was switched to start. It's as though there was no power going to the starter. Could it be a problem with the immobizer system, or just a freak incident with how I handled the key? The truck ended up starting after another 15 minutes and has consistantly started for the remainder of the day.
View 4 Replies
I have an 04 f150 and just changed the alternator yesterday, and 4 hours later it wouldn't start starter clicks but no crank.
View 3 Replies
