Ford F150 truck, when starting, the starter will turn over strongly for half a second then just abruptly makes a loud noise and stops. It won't ever fully crank. Is this just a bad starter?
View 2 RepliesI thought that my front wheel bearing was bad but I removed it and it seems fine. The issue that I'm having is a continous vibration (noise) in the left front that gets worse with speed.The half shaft makes a noise at the point where the half shaft meets the steering knuckle and when I turn the shaft at the outer splines, the grinding noise is present. My question is, is the entire half shaft supposed to turn, even the outer diameter of it that would enter the steering knuckle, or is the shaft supposed to turn inside of that outer diameter? I hope I was able to explain my problem clearly/
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 supercab 4x4 with a 4.6 in it, it has 186k on it and the only issues I've had was a misfire not to long ago. I replaced the plugs and coil packs and fixed that issue. 2 days ago she ran fine with no issues and this morning I went out to go to the store and she wouldn't start. All the dash lights come on and all of that normal stuff when you turn the key. When I turn the key I hear what sounds kind of like a clunking noise towards the bottom of the windshield and the middle of the dash. The starter does not engage, no nothing, really confused here. I thought maybe the battery was bad so I put my jumper on it and tried but again nothing happened.
View 14 RepliesThe last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
Lariat stepside, 5.4L with 150k miles. Loud popping noise, almost a clunk, when making a slow sharp turn. Put it on jackstands and did the normal tire grab and shake and found no issues there. Tie rods, ball joints and sway bar links all seem tight. Looked for signs of unusual rubber to metal and metal to metal wear and found nothing. The only thing I did see was the rubber boots on the upper control arm ball joints were split. What I have checked or if I am missing something?
View 9 Replieswhen u turn the key it starts to turn over for half a sec then stops. when u stop it sounds like the starter is still spinning. battery is good. it use to do it some times but if she tried a couple times it would start. could it be where the wires go in or the whole thing? could it be somthing else besides the starter?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Jeep Liberty with 43,000 miles which many times in the morning, the car won't start. I hear for just a brief moment the starter motor turn on for less than half a second then turn off. I take the key out and try again. It takes a few times for it to run. I have tried different keys and once it has been started for the day, it usually is not an issue until the next morning.
View 2 RepliesI have 98 f150 with 4.6 starter went so I put a new one on wich was a hassle and it tries to turn but just wont as if the motor is seized. I had been hear a loud howling sound from what I think is the ac unit and the ac line burst after trying to start. Would a bearing or something with the AC be enough to stop the engine from turning over? Or could it maybe be a wire connection problem? To me it sounds like a starter trying to start a seized motor but I cant see that my motor would be out it only has 190 000km and the oil looks good. but we couldn't turn the motor over with a ratchet? The truck had been getting gutless. I am stuck...
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 f150 5.4 4x4, drowned it a while back, thought i had hydro lock, crank can be turned by hand though as far as i can with a wrench, so internals seem to be fine, no bent or broken rods that i could tell, ripped everything apart cleaned it up put it back together, new fuses, new ignition relay, new starter, alternator and battery as well, turned the key to on and got all my electronic stuff back up, turned to start and it all goes dark, which i assume is because at that point its sending power to the starter, but the starter didn't turn or crank the engine...
So question being when i put my new starter on is it possible that i might have crossed a wire or something that would cause it to not crank? and due to the fact that I had water in it, and had hydro locked it, all my plugs are out, now I know that spark is needed for the engine to run, but shouldn't be needed just for the crank to turn right? question being is that once i fix the wires on my starter, I am looking for initial crank before start up, so do i need to put a plug or two back in and hook them up to make it crank? or will it crank without them? and yes I did replace all my fluids as well.
After getting the oil changed in my 1997 Ford F-150 4.6L with 150K miles at a local quick lube, I made one stop and my truck wouldn't start. I could hear the starter engage the flywheel, but couldn't turn it over at all. Oil was clean and full. I bench tested the starter and it tests good. I put a breaker bar on the crankcase nut and I could barely move it. Oil level was about 2 quarts low before oil change.
View 10 RepliesI'm having some strange electrical issues b where to start fixing the problems. Here is whats happening:
- Put the key into the ignition and turn to the "on" position, full power to everything no issues at this point
- Turn the key to the start position, get 1 click out of the starter and then lose all power to everything
- Turn the key off and back to "on" position, sometimes I get power at this point and sometimes the power stays dead for a while
- Check the battery, which is good (12.3 volts)
- At one point someone noticed some sparks coming from a connector near the back of the firewall on the passenger side (sits on top of a metal cover with a large positive terminal right behind it). I've disconnected this terminal, cleaned it and put on some dielectric grease all of which hasn't done anything.
- Basically I mess around with few things, check some connectors, let it sit for a few minutes and then it will start.
Recently I lowered my .:R pretty low on fk highsports.. well today i was backing off into my driveway.. When i turned my wheels to the right or to the the left the front driver wheel makes loud noise like tick tick tick.. when i put my wheels straight no noise at all.. It happens when i go forward or backwards turning my wheels to the right or left..
View 13 RepliesI have a 2003 f150 4X4. Whenever I go around a round about slowly, the truck sort of grind under the frame and shakes a little bit like I am in 4 wheel drive.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
I have a 1999 F150 Lariat 5.4 that's been sitting for a few weeks waiting for a new MAF. Finally got a MAF from a junkyard (out of an 01 Expedition) and installed it.
Turned the key, cranks once, then I hear a loud click and then just continuous clicking. I did some research and people are saying this is just the starter solenoid and that the battery may be dead. I charged the battery a couple hours and waited until it showed 11.some volts, tried to start it again, didn't even turn over, just clicking. I also noticed the theft light blinking rapidly, but if it were the PATS acting up, wouldn't the motor at least turnover?
So I went back to charging the battery. Went out a couple hours later (at night), and when I opened the door, none of the lights came on. Then I hear a click, the lights come on, followed by another click, and the lights went off. This happens each time I open and close the door. So did I potentially pop a fuse? Or is my battery just fried? Would replacing the MAF with the newer one out of the expedition cause any weird issue? I doubt it, but anything is possible at this point I guess.
2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
View 3 RepliesToday I think something went wrong with my starter. When I go to start the sante fe the starter makes a winding noise. Battery tested good and I ensured that the ground was clean and making a good connection.
I read about a TSB relating to a starter arm kit. I can't seem to find a part code or any info on the 2010 specifically having this issue.
I recently replaced my starter pin my Hyundai Sonata 06 v6 3.3 gls. Installing it was no real issue, but one (there is only one a single wire not the one that you fix on with a bolt and nut) of the electrical connectors from the car to the starter solenoid. The plastic around the conductor pretty much crumbled around my finger, what this connector is called specifically. Now the contacts will not contact properly so i suspect this the source of the rapid clicking issue, since my battery was fully charged. I plan to go to the junkyard too if i can find a replacement. Looking for specifics on the electrical connector?
View 1 RepliesI am having trouble with my Chevrolet Aveo 2009 A/C. After driving for a while on the highway, the A/C stops blowing much air at low fan and when I increase the fan speed, it blows more air while making a whistling noise but not as much air as it usually does on that same fan speed. The noise starts going away after a while and it blows as much air as it should.I noticed that it happens more when I keep accelerating every now and then on the highway.
It does not happen as much when I am driving on a constant speed. I took it to the dealership and they said the filter was dirty and they found a leak on the vaporizer cap, fixed those but nothing changed! What might be the cause? I was researching the issue and came across this ""TPS (throttle position sensor) gives the WOT (wide open throttle) signal to the PCM to momentarily cut off power to the A/C clutch which disengages the A/C"...Could that be the issue?
I've had this truck almost 2 yrs now. It is not a 4 x 4. The trouble I am having is on the driver side. What happened first was while I was driving it i heard a loud squealing noise then a loud pop. After that the truck seemed fine I checked under it and everything looked ok. After that I drove it to a couple stores did fine but i heard the loud pop again. Once I left the store I was driving on the highway and it jerked to the left and i heard a grinding/rattling noise. I put my flashers on slowed down and every once in a while it would still pull to the right but the grinding noise remained constant. I parked it waited for a tow and i turned the truck around and drove it up the ramp there was another pop sound but I didn't hear the grinding. It seems to happen on and off. And it doesn't matter if I am turning or going straight.
View 2 RepliesFirst off I have a 1997 F-150 4.6 with 205,000 miles on it.. stock engine and tranny. It's been a great truck and never given me any major problems. But recently something under the hood (wish i could be more specific) makes a really loud HUMMING noise (almost sound like a trumpet). For example- say im driving on the highway and i let off the gas, this humming noise will appear and it is very loud, but right when i give the engine some gas the humming goes away.
Or also when I am driving through town, when i come to a stop light, let off the gas to apply the breaks, this humming noise will come about. what i have to do is stick the truck in neutral and give it a big rev (which i do like hearing my exhaust so it isn't always annoying) and then it stops. note though, it doesnt happen every single time i let off the gas, however it is pretty frequent.
do yall think this is in the air intake system? thatd be my only guess because when i rev the engine it quits, but one thing is it sounds like it comes more from the passenger side of the truck, and it seems to occur more often when the temperature outside is cold. im completely stumped by this one, ive never heard anything like it.