Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Starter Stays Engaged Until Put In Gear
Feb 24, 2013
I might have a chance to pick up an 1997 F150 with a 4.6 pretty cheap. He has replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder, Says it keeps turning over until you put in in gear. In my experience a solenoid that is sticking wont stop until you disconnect the battery, just wondering what people think it might be? I am thinking I will just put a push button stater to make it work if its a wiring issue.
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My second Super Duty, a 1999 7.3 at random leaves the starter engaged after starting! Turn key off, starter disengages. Solenoid or ignition switch or? Batteries are good, and crank times are quick, but a while ago before replacing starter there were some periods of long cranking.
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I'm working with some family members who have a 97 Bonneville with the 3800 supercharged and approaching 300,000 miles. It already has a rebuilt engine and transmission.
Just recently when putting the car in gear it sounds like it goes in gear (the engine rpms settle down) but the car doesn't move. Under the hood I can see the arm that shifts the transmission. It moves normally and appears to engage the transmission properly, but the car just doesn't move.
It doesn't do this all the time, but it does it about 90% of the time. The other 10% it goes it gear and drives just fine.
Today while testing a little more we put it in drive and it didn't want to go, but with the RPMs up around d 3,000 the car creeped forward a couple feet and stopped.
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The e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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I have a 2003 F150 4x4. There is a whining noise when going 45 to 55 mph (at least that's the only time I can hear it), but only when the gas pedal is engaged. I thought I'd work back to front and I took off the rear differential cover, cleaned it out and changed the rear differential fluid. That did not reduce the whining, but I think those spin when the wheels spin anyway. The whine only happens when the gas pedal is engaged.
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Can't drive the truck. Went through the how to fix 4x4 and no go. How to kick it out of four wheel dive?
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97 F150 4x4 5.4L ... Just put this truck back on the road after being parked since 2008. While driving at 45 mph, transfer case engaged and is locked in 4wd lo. I did notice a pop about a minute after I started the truck. Drove approx. 5 miles. Transfer case engaged and chirped the back tires, slowed speed to about 5mph. Having it towed home. I'm thinking shift motor???
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I have a 2001 f150 crew cab 4x2 82k miles 4.6 with a 4r70w. Was pulling it over a curb and it popped now it will shift into reverse and load the motor like its pulling against a wall. In drive it will move some but still will lock up and stop moving. I assumed something in the rear had broken from the way it would roll a few feet and lock. Replaced the rear and still have same problem. Is there something I can replace to fix a stuck park or does the transmission need replaced or rebuilt?
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I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6, standard transmission. the problem is every time I push the clutch the 4x4 light on the lower right of the dash pops on the power windows and windshield wipers will not work, releasing the clutch everything and goes back to normal, I checked the relay that was clicking every time I push the clutch in and switched it out same problem. As of yesterday the problem has now reversed, when the clutch is released everything doesn't work and a 4x4 light pops on.
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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I replaced my fan clutch... Not a bad job, did it a couple weeks ago. I don't drive the truck much, but took it out today for the second time in the two weeks since I replaced it. The fan stays engaged until the truck hit operating temperature it seems. Is that normal?
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My 1997 f150 when I put her in drive the speedometer goes up to aproxx 36 mph and stays there no matter what I do or how fast I drive and then slowly falls back to zero when I shut the truck down. Where can I start, I had someone look at it years ago and the said the cluster was bad. I use my GPS to tell me the speed I am going, everything else works in the cluster.
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I have an 03 F150 supercrew FX4 and I noticed today that my ABS light has came on and won't go off. I know I need to replace the front pads and rotors, but what will cause the light to come on?
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TRUCK- 1997 F-150 4x4 5.4L 180,000 miles ( great truck ) The ABS light came on yesterday and wont go off. I checked all the wires I could see from under thr truck (looked good). Then I replaced the rear diff abs sensor, no luck. The omhs on the old one was 1200 and i guess that is in range. The light comes on when I start along with the 4x4 and low range light the 4x4 and low light go off and ABS flickers and comes right back with the truck still in park. Where are the front wheel sensors and how hard are they to get at? Can they be tested , fixed, or replaced from a junkyard?
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So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
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My truck will fire while the starter is engaged ,but stalls when the key is in the run position. This is my plow truck and I don't want to go through the winter without it.
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I have a 97 F150 XL. The lighter plugs stay on even with the key removed. I just bought this truck and this seems to be odd behavior to me, yet I can find no modified wiring.
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Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
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The starter on my kid's truck doesn't disengage and continues to turn over after the ignition is off. I have seen a few posts on this but have yet to find a clear troubleshooting path and it seems a lot of money wasted on new starters, solenoids and new ignitions.
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So yesterday i got my windshield tinted at a shop and now im having issues. My ac stays on when the key is out of the ignition i can use all settings from low to high. My windshield wipers only work in neutral and park. Im calling them when they open but i think the water they spray on the tint got down in the dash and fried something.
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