Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Stalls At Idle - No Codes
Jul 14, 2014
My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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I've got a 1997 F250 with a transmission problem that I've been trying to diagnose. The problem is I can't grab any codes from the truck. I took her to the transmission shop and they described to me the same problem I was having. Whenever I try reading codes with the engine off it fails, when I try reading codes with the engine on it stalls the engine. The transmission shop referred me to another shop that might be able to figure my problem out, but I'd like to leave that as a last resort. I've checked all fuses and relays and I have a new engine computer on order right now. However, I'd like to know if there are any other possibilities.
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F150 2001 265,000 Super crew 5.4 Fuel Injection ... Runs great. Good gas mileage. Outstanding workhorse.
The problem only occurs on cold mornings. The engine turns over easily and fires right off. Most of the time it will idle fine without any throttle. Hower, the slightest pressure on the gas pedal that the rpm drops and the engine stalls. It starts right back up same problem.
I come back later in the day and it starts and runs fine with and without load. No codes and the the fuel pump, fuel filter, and been replaced--no change.
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My dad has passed his 99 f 150 with 130,000 miles to me. It is a 2 wheel drive, extended cab automatic equipped with the 4.6. Recently, the blend door failed and as a temporary measure I installed a ball valve in the heater core supply hose. The ac now blows ice cold.
On two occasions since the installation of the ball valve, the truck has stalled at idle when in park and would not start, although it turned over fine, until 30 to 45 minutes elapsed. On both occasions it was a hot day. The check engine light is not on and no codes are stored.
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I have a 97 ford f150 with a 5.4 I bought the truck with 114000 miles on it and the exhaust manifold bolts were broke from the exhaust I have replace the whole manifold with new gaskets and bolts and I get the codes 1131 and 1151 which indicates o2 sensors indicate lean and I also get p0136 and p0153 which indicate lean or front o2 sensors it will stay running for a little bit every once in a while but it only idles at 200 to 400 rpms and I'm not sure what to do?
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2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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I have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
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The truck ran fine this morning and this afternoon I had trouble with the truck running at idle.
The idle is at about 450RPM in park. Runs smooth with no miss but if you bring the idle up and then let off quickly it stalls. Can stall while trying to idle at warm up also. Sometimes it will stall at a light but I think it is related to taking my foot off the pedal quickly.
There is no check engine light on and there are no codes. I have 138K on the engine now. Both air & fuel filter were replaced about a month ago as well as the PCV valve.
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I will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
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So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
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I have a 2000 F150 4.2L and I have 2 codes PO304 & PO174 so far I have changed my plugs & wires,fuel filter,mass air flow sensor, and coil pack...it is still running rough under a load and a little rough on idle..
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so i bought this truck about 3 months ago and it was running real bad when i got it, I went ahead and changed the lower and upper intake gaskets, cleaned throttle body, egr ports on lower and upper intake, did timing chain cover gaskets and 3 bad injectors i found while doing gaskets, truck ran better but still black smoking(running rich) and getting 8 mpg. So I changed fan clutch,fuel pump fuel filter,airfilter,MAF sensor(old one was pulling 14.4 volt), DPFE sensor and all 4 oxygen sensors(old ones carboned up and real sooty).
I've checked my egr valve while idling and when it opens the engine just about stalls, truck seems to be running better but CEL light came on again and is throwing these CODES:
P0453 (evap emission ctrl sys pressure sensor high input),
P0141,
P0153,
P0135(oxy sensors),
P0401exhaust gas recirculation flow insuff detected,
P0460fuel tank level indicator circuit error.
And I believe I've told everything i know ...
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2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
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PCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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I've been having this problem since I've gotten the truck about year ago. it has very high long-term fuel trims and it seems no matter what I do I cannot get them to go down my fuel trims at idle are 39 Bank1 and 33 bank2 they go down to around 12>7 while driving what could this mean. And even weirder occasionally I get Bank 1 or bank 2 too lean codes at idle when cold starting???? 1997 Ford F150 4.6 ......
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1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
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Truck has a rough idle and finally just stalls out. I replace the under valve cover wiring harness and put in new glow plugs. With valve covers still off I started the truck in the issue still persist. I went ahead and unplugged each injector and each time the motor had a hick up .
What am I pulling apart and replacing next?
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I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
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So I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
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