Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Squeaky Serpentine Belt Once It Warms Up
Feb 25, 2013
I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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I have a problem with my 1997 aerostar. There is a squeaking noise that gets more significant when I turn. I am pretty sure this is the drive belt as the power steering fluid is fine. Should I attempt to replace the belt tensioner and if so is it just the pulley that needs replacing or the whole tensioner. I am by no means a mechanic but can figure most things out.
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Ok, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
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My fiance has a 97 Corolla had belt that was located near the engine block on the passenger side going long ways. This belt had a frayed edge since she and I started dating(over 2 years). Whenever asked about it, she said that any dealership or shop she took it to for something else said that it was fine or they didn't think it needed to be worked on/fixed. Alarms for me? Yes, but it's her car. For whatever reason, it hasn't been fixed.
Yesterday, the battery light kept flashing on and off and the steering became hard and sluggish, as if the power steering wasn't working. We got home and I opened it up and the belt was gone except for a few solid strands left.
So, is this the timing belt, or something else? And what is required to fix it?I'm also in the process of hunting down my Haynes book for this car still but wanted to ask the masses that exist here.After finding the book, it looks to be called the serpentine drive belt.
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2003 3.0 ranger... This will be my 3rd time replacing serpentine belt and if needed 2nd. time for idler, tension pulleys...NOT SURE WHAT TO DO, should i replace parts again?
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Leaving on a 200 mile trip in the morning and when checking the fluids, I found the serpentine belt trying to get off the AC pulley. I've put in on twice and it immediately jumps half way off when starting the engine. How long it's been doing this. Nothing is obviously loose or moved. What is likely causing this?
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About 2 weeks ago i noticed that the serpentine belt started shredding. I noticed it before it was all gone, so i parked it and started ordering parts before i did anything. Since i had to get the radiator hose off, i decided to flush the coolant, change the thermostat and the upper radiator hose to go around the belt. Once the parts arrived, I drained the coolant and did two flushes and tried to change the hoses and thermostat. the Gates hose ended up not being the right hose, in hindsight I should have used the old hose and put it back together.
But I returned the Gates hose and ordered a Motorcraft hose. not thinking, i left the system dry and possibly sitting with water from the previous flush. Three days ago, I got the correct Motorcraft part and did the work on Sunday. since it had been sitting, i decided to run another flush, i noticed a squeaking sound and that the water was coming out a little browner than when i left it. So I ran another two flushes and said to hell with it and put the whole thing back together and filled it with coolant and distilled water.
This morning, the squeaking sound was louder, but temps where fine and coolant level was fine. I drove to work ( about a 10 mile drive) and when i finally stopped, i got a whiff of coolant smell. I noticed coolant behind me and when i lifted the hood, i noticed the reservoir was half empty and coolant dripping down from the center of the block. I can still hear the squeaking, I figure the water pump is on its last leg and decide i need to go home. I walk in to work and let them know I'm gonna take the day off to situate this. Before i leave, i top off the reservoir with a gallon of distilled water and head out.
After a short distance I notice that the squeaking stops, now I'm terrified that the water pump just completely failed. (I've never had one fail on me so I'm not sure what happens when it does) As i drive home, I'm watching all my gauges. none of the temperature gauges spike, everything was normal for the drive home (another 10 miles) I park it and lift the hood and the reservoir is completely full. why is reservoir completely full? why would a leak like that stop? Should i just change the water pump? I don't want to just hope for the best, i do use my excursion to haul the kids from time to time.
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I was cruising along yesterday and felt the steering pump go out on the highway. Nowhere to pull over and pulling a big horse trailer. Three miles later I finally get to a wide spot to dive into. I look down and the temp gauge is maxed and the oil light is on. Most of the antifreeze boils out when I got the engine shut down. I had no choice but to have a friend bring a new belt and some antifreeze to the rescue. Got it changed and filled back up. Started and drove home fine.
I've got this twisted gut feeling about the whole deal. What kind of damage did I likely do? Things to look for? Did I just kill the longevity of the motor? I've been trying to do things right and treat it well to ensure a reliable truck.
On a side note the belt came apart in ribbons and it was absolutely shredded. The belt appeared to be less than 3 months old. No cracks or tears and a bright white numbers sticker on the back
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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I have 1997 F250 LD since i bough it has been doing this chirping sound coming from the serpentine belt and the pulley area but when the truck has been working for 15 - 20 min it goes away
This is apart from the from the problem before I think the fan clutch is broken because when I start the truck I can hear the fan going at the same speed of the engine is that normal ? even when the truck is cold
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My serp belt started squealing so I pulled the thermostat housing to inspect the rubber gasket. It looked OK, but I cleaned up both surfaces and replaced with a new gasket, and put it back together. The housing was replaced just a couple months ago along with new hoses. It was not corroded and OK to reuse.
Started the truck up and saw a slowish/steady drip of red Cat ELC dripping on the driveway. Opened the hood up again and carefully inspected around the thermostat housing - no coolant is leaking there.
I did notice the same slow/steady drip coming from just behind and beneath the thermostat housing. See in pic, this is where it is dripping. One other question, what is this plug for on the side of the water pump?
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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I have a 2005 V8 with 15k miles. I have 18" wheels. I'm thinking of replacing the factory brake pads soon. The factory pads are a bit squeaky, especially on warm days after the car warms up. I find this annoying. I do not want to replace pads with the same product. So I have two question: What brand came on the car? and what pads can you all recommend?
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I have a 1997 F150 4x4 4.6 liter 140,000 miles. I want to replace just the lower ball joints but my service manual says you can't, that you have to replace the lower control arms. Is there any way around this?
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Just got an alignment done on my truck because it was squeekin and wandering on the interstate. I read the thread on the control arm / ball joint fix and was going to do the job since I thought they were probably shot with 187k mi. on them. I'm second owner so I dont know if orig owner ever had them replaced. I squirted some grease in the pitman arm boot and one of the ball joints that had a tear in it. I was wondering if any one tried drilling and tapping in a zerk fitting where they are accessible on the center link. There is a raised top on the joints that looks like it might be made for doing that but I dont know how thick the metal is and dont want to ruin it.
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Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
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I have a concern with my serpentine belt chirping when it's wet or cold. I have tried soap, and other attempts to quiet it down. Belt tension is good, new water pump and fan. Otherwise no other issues so far.
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I was driving the other day (cold weather- approx 15 F), and my serpentine belt shredded. Managed to drive a mile or so to my driveway. The belt was shredded on the fan side (and had come completely off), but it wasn't torn in two. Got a new belt and installed it, but upon test-cranking, found that it was riding up one ridge on the crank. All the other ribbed pulleys were fine (PS, AC). The smooth pulleys had the belt move a little, however.
Thinking I didn't set it right, I reinstalled the belt on the crank and tried again. Same result (belt rides up one groove, towards the fan). I perused the archives, and one comment was that someone simply trimmed one groove off the belt and everything was happy. The belt found it's "groove", and didn't act up anymore. Doesn't fix the underlying problem, but
1) is this a good fix
2) any clue what is going on?
3) Do I need to get the crank fixed?
BTW, I am sure that I threaded the belt on correctly!
1992 Aerostar, 4.0L, AWD. AC+P/S....
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So i have a 1998 4.0 ohv ranger and have been fighting belt squeak shortly after i got it. I've replaced the belt twice and the tensioner twice when i put a GATES belt on it stopped for like month. But its still squeaking. If i put a wrench on the tensioner and turn it the squeak stops. So i need to find a way to tighten the tensioner could i somehow jam it, our hook up a turn buckle bolt to manually tighten it, or use a different ford tensioner. I really need to do something cause this squeak is just down right annoying.
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My 2007 Ford Focus broke down today. From what I can see and find online with my limited knowledge, it looks like the serpentine belt broke. Would this cause loss of power steering, rise in oil temperature and my check battery light to come on?
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