Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Slight Rumble When Driving - CEL Came On - Code P0306
Feb 22, 2013
I have a 99 f150 5.4 and i am pretty sure I have a cop issue. I have changed a few over the past few years and this one is acting about the same. The other day i felt a slight stumble but it went right away and drove fine. Well after heavy rain all night i went to take the kids to school and it was stumbling and acting like it was not firing on all cylinders. CEL came on and got the code read at the auto part store. Well driving it home it just cleared and drove fine. So i checked the #6 plug and changed the boot on the coil but all the same symptoms came back. It is the original coil so i am figuring that it is bad.
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So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
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I have a 2000 f150 lariat. Mo problem started about 2 weeks ago. Around town its fine but when I go over 50 mph it feels like I'm driving down the rumble strips on the highway and after a couple miles it just smooths out and its fine! Yesterday I went on the interstate and it did the same but this time I ran up to 85 and the vibration stopped.
I had another motor put in about 2 months ago, #4, and he changed my rear u joint as well. I replaced the rear passenger side wheel bearing a couple months ago but there seemed like a little play in the axle still but not bad. I've been to the dealer and a few other mechanics but it doesn't do it all the time and they couldn't find what is wrong.
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I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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My mom's 2003 Alero has had a bad catalytic converter for the last few years.. at least that's what she was told when she took it to the shop. The engine light (P0420 threshold below efficiency) has been on over the last few years and I occasionally check it with a code reader to make sure no other codes have been added. Up until today - as far as I know - none have been. Now today when she was driving it the engine light started flashing and running rough and making a knocking sound.She brought it straight home and I hooked my scan tool up and it gave the same cat code as I just mentioned, plus a P0306 misfire code. So I pulled the plug wire on number six cylinder and hooked up a spark tester to it - and it showed a decent spark. And to verify the spark being normal, I tested at another plug wire and the spark looked about the same..so I don't think anything is wrong with number 6 plug wire or coil or anything like that but am not sure. Also, the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago because the ones in the car were worn down about .010''. I can't imagine this having anything to do with the misfire because I did them myself and made sure they were gaped properly and that all the wires were put back on the correct plug/cylinder and plus it ran fine after the plugs were installed - but thought I would mention it anyways. And I was very careful not to damage the platinum on the plug when gaping them.
Did a little bit of research and found this: A code P0306 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer
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2000 F-150 Triton V-8, Super Cab, 2WD, ~170,000 miles, 4-wheel ABS (one speed sensor on each front wheel and one on the rear differential). The ABS light comes on a few minutes after driving. It seems to take a little bit longer for the light to come on when the weather is colder.
I used a Cen-Tech 60794 OBD II/CAN with ABS scan tool with key on, engine off, and the below sequence. No codes were detected. I then left the scanner connected but powered off and drove around until the ABS light came on. Pulled into a parking lot with engine running, powered up the scan tool and went through the following menu choices:
Diagnostics
ABS
Area - USA vehicles
Model - Ford
Although the tool's instruction manual has several more items that may or may not be required (VIN digits, model year, etc), the next thing I saw is a message indicating the scanner is linking with the vehicle computer. During that time the ABS light went out. Next on the scan tool display my choice was to read codes or erase codes. I selected "Read codes" and the display said there are no codes in the module.
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I came home from work truck was running decent got up in the morning to start it up. Tried to start up was real rumbly and died got the same twice then went to just cranking over not getting anything else tried spraying some starter fluid in air and it would try so assuming its firing abd possibly gas related ...
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I developed a significant miss on my '00 Excursion 6.8L yesterday and threw a P0306 code. Since the engine has 178K showing and I bought it used, I am planning to replace all the COPs and plugs.
Recommend one COP over another; motorcraft over Accel, etc.? Any preference for spark plugs?
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
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2005 f150 5.4.
I have a slightly rough idle and can feel a miss at 1600 to 2000 RPM. Sometimes running about 65 MPH up a slight grade I can slowly press the gas pedal and the engine will begin to miss much worse, causing the truck to shake pretty bad. When it gets this bad it will slowly flash the CEL and I get a P0306 code (Cyl 6 missfire).
The truck has 148000 Miles on it and the plugs were replaced at approx 120000 by the dealer.
In the last week I have replaced the plug in cylinder 6 (looked ok) and have replaced all the COP's along with the fuel filter and the injector on #6.
I haven't been able to get it flash the CEL light or throw a code since replacing the COPs though and I am at a loss at to what to try next.
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I picked up a 2014 F150 with the EcoBoost engine a couple weeks back and while so far I love it, I can't get over how quiet it is. So, to my question, has anyone done anything with the exhaust to get some of that truck sound back. A slight rumble on acceleration would be nice to have and maybe get some gains out of it, but thats minimal.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 3.5. Today I started it and the check engine light came on. It was not on before this. (We had a lot of wind and rain from the storm but nothing major.) And seems to be running fine. I went to the auto parts store and they ran a diagnostic and the Code P0306 came up #6 cylinder misfire. They said probably Spark plug, wire or coil for #6, then went to look up code in computer and did not have my truck so they went with Kia or Domestic, which gave different possibilities for a code P0306.
They had me buy some fuel injector cleaner as injector was on the list. The light is still on so I guess the cleaner was not the magic bullet. I spoke to a lady at another auto parts store who is a wiz when it comes to cars and has been around them and fixing them a really long time. She says the Code P0306 is Spark Plug, wire, coil #6. She has a 4cyl Hyundai car not truck and she had the code for her #4 misfire in the past and she started her repair cheapest first, Plugs, wires her code was still there she then changed the coil and that did the trick for her.
I on the other hand can't do this stuff myself. Can't afford the dealer anymore or to have a shop do a tune up AND coil if I don't need all new plugs and wires just a coil as they will charge a lot to do a lot all. And it may not need it or even be any of those things. I also suspect the dealer and shops will want to still hook up their computers to do an costly diagnostic because the light is on, even though I know the parts store already came up with a code P0306 twice. Spoke to the dealer on the phone and he already basically said they would want to do that first for $100 plus the cost of repair.
I brought the truck new. It now has 91,500 miles on it and the dealer has already done two tuneups on it in that time, Plugs and wires. I hear it probably shouldn't have even needed these tuneups in this amount of millage? So the last one was probably about 2 years ago and a few thousand miles maybe a guess 10,000-20,000 miles ago. Do you think a plug and wire would be bad already in that few miles?
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Went to do a few things this morning, started the car and it ran like crap. It was an obvious multi cylinder misfire. I checked to make sure all the coil connections and all other visible connectors were tight. Went back around and noticed the mil was flashing, so I shut it down and took the girl's car. I returned later in the afternoon and swapped out my intake in anticipation of it going to the dealer. Started up the car afterward and it ran fine without the mil lit. I had the codes pulled:
p0300 p0303 p0306 Its kind of weird that 2 coils would go at the same time. Do these cylinders share a coil or fuel injector driver off the ecm?
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I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
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I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
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So I had a serious runability problem back in 2012 with code P0302 (misfire in cylinder 2) and the car was barely running. I changed the spark plugs, which didn't fix the issues. Then changed the coil, which fixed it. URL...But I was a little lazy back in September 2012, the old spark plug wires looked like they were still in great shape, so I left the old wires on. I think they were the original factory wires, they had the numbers of each cylinder printed on the side. Very nice wires!
Fast-forward to the present. Car starts running poorly with a blinking check-engine light. Not good! I check the code and it is P0306, misfire in cylinder 6. So my first thought was: OK, probably time to change the spark plug wires!I changed the spark plug wires. I purchased AutoLite Professional Series wires at Advance Auto Parts, part 97047. URL...Sure enough, the number 6 wire looked like it had a little corrosion inside the end that connects to the spark plug wire. It looked like I was on the right track! Changed the spark plug wires, and ran it. It still sounded like it might be missing on one cylinder. Just a quiet ch-ch-ch-ch-ch-ch at idle. I took it for a test drive. It ran OK at low RPM's, but had no power. When I tested some hard acceleration, sure enough the check engine light came back on. Tested the code and it was P0306 again. Conclusion: not fixed yet.
OK, maybe the spark plug wire was the problem, just the plug got fouled because the wire was bad. I purchased a replacement spark plug for that cylinder only. AutoLite Double Platinum as recommended elsewhere in this forum. Removed the old plug. I'm no expert, but the old plug looked fine to me. Installed the new plug. Tested it again. Still sounded like missing at idle ch-ch-ch-ch-ch. Test drive, OK with low RPM, no power. Tried hard acceleration, got the blinking CEL again. Conclusion: still not fixed - darn it!
Now remember, I just changed the coil back in September 2012. I had replaced it with a coil from AutoZone. The first coil had lasted ten years. So it couldn't be the coil again this soon, right? But... just to be sure, I went ahead and changed the coil again. I called AutoZone and happily it was still under warranty. The previous coil I had purchased came with a 24-month warranty, and I was on month 23 !!! Sweet!AutoZone also told me if I did a warranty replacement of the coil, the new one would come with a lifetime warranty instead.The part number of the coil at AutoZone was part C1312, Duralast Ignition Coil.
Before installing the new coil, I put a little Dielectric grease around the top inside of each connector on the new coil (7 total, six spark plug wires plus the electrical connector). I think this was recommended in my Haynes or Chilton manuals.I am a tall skinny guy with long skinny arms. So I was able to replace the coil without removing the cowl. Last time I had to remove the cowl (to do the intake manifold isolator bolt repair) the cowl had cracked, also some of the clips holding it down broke. So I didn't want to remove the cowl unless necessary. It turns out with my long skinny arms I can lay up over the motor and reach back around both sides of the intake manifold to reach the coil. It is a reach, but it was possible for me to do the job that way.
I removed the three bolts holding the old coil in place. Then I was able to slide the new coil back in there, around the driver's side of the intake manifold. I transferred over the spark plug wires one by one from old to new (as recommended by another poster) so I wouldn't get confused which was which. It worked well to transfer the rear three first. That hold the new coil near the correct location, and gave me more slack to move the old coil further out of the way.Next step was to remove the wire connector from the rear of the coil pack. It didn't want to release. I looked at the old part (from 2012!!!) and there was a little plastic nub back there to lock the connector in place. It looked like there was room to work in a small screwdriver back there to release the lock. So I wiggled a short flat-head screwdriver in back there (with a wide head) and it released. Then I was able to easily remove the connector.
Then I had more slack to move the old coil further out of the way, toward the drivers side and front of the vehicle. And then transferred the last three spark plug wires to the new coil.Then to secure the new coil in place, I carefully installed one bolt by hand, leaving it loose to allow for final adjustments of position. Installed the second and third bolts loosely. Tightened the three bolts finger tight using a short (3") extension and 7mm socket (1/4" drive). Then snugged them very gently using my small 1/4" rachet. The small 1/4" rachet was a perfect fit using the 3" inch extension and the small 7mm socket. Remember you just want the bolts snug, do not over-tighten them.
When I went back to AutoZone to process the warranty return, they had to do some fancy work with their computer to get me the lifetime warranty on the new coil. By default it would just assume the rest of the original coil warranty from 2012 - which was just about to expire. So they made it right for me - but only because I specifically asked about it. By default, the guy had already rung it up their "normal" way, which would not have extended the warranty for me.Another thing that was strange was back in September 2012 when I replaced the original coil, it had worked well for ten years or so! Also, the bottom of it was clearly cracked, so it was easy to see that it had deteriorated and needed to be replaced.
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I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
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Recently noticed when driving, I'll hear and feel a slight clicking noise coming from my steering column. I can be going straight or turning. it is intermittent. I've look underneath and nothing seems obvious. when the truck is in park, I've tried to manhandle the steering wheel, the steering wheel is solid. the truck is a 1998 f150xl v6.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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