Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Slight Grade In OD / Truck Will Downshift When Let Off Gas To Coast A Little
May 8, 2013
I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 with a 5.4 engine. On two different occasions, I have been driving down the highway about 70 miles an hour down a slight grade in OD. When I let off the gas to coast a little the truck will downshift. press on the gas again, the truck goes back into OD. I do this a couple of times and then it wont do it again. What might be happening. Truck has 82,000 miles on it. I am the only owner. Transmission fluid changed a year ago.
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My truck won't down shift most of the time if I'm in 4wd especially I have to manually shift or stop let the rpms go to idle then it shifts down and I can take my foot off the brake and drive again not good when ur in deep mud and u start slowing down and can't bring rpms up...
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I recently just purchased a 2011 Lexus RX350 AWD... I would like to ask on the downshift while slowdown the car.... Every once in a while I feel the tranny down shift while slowing down... It's not harsh or anything, but just enough to have a slight feel. Like a backlash? Is this normal? I also have 09 GS350 AWD.. It's so smooth that I can't feel the downshift at all...
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I am having a minor problem with my 05 F150 Lariat. Under light acceleration going up a slight grade the truck sometimes shudders (vibrates?). If I let off the gas or accelerate slightly it stops. At first I thought it was a feedback loop with the electronic throttle so I had the dealer reflash the computer but that didn't fix it. I've noticed that it happens right about the time the torque converter locks (looking at the tach) and I'm sure it has something to do with torque converter locking up and then disengaging continuously. Funny thing, it seems to happen frequently on the same hill at the same speed. What was done to fix it?
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We have a '96 Subaru Legacy Wagon with about 175K on it. Bought used. Ran OK for 2 years and suddenly we get this: going up a hill, even a slight, steady grade for more than a block or two, the car starts shuddering...power ebbs...car slows...check engine light flashes madly...it turns into a cartoon car with tongue dragging out, then dies if you don't pull over and let it pant like a dog. If it dies,one can restart it in half a minute or so.
Our excellent mechanic cleaned engine, valves, checked fuel-related stuff, replaced things, even worked on it for free because he was so stumped. Consulted w/worldwide Subaru experts. Conclusion: some cylinder/valve or something has sort of carved itself a new notch and so doesn't seat properly, evinces itself under pressure of grade or hill, would cost 2-3K to fix...an amount we simply don't have.
I'm doomed to drive this thing for the next 2-3 years, finding grade-less routes in my hilly Northwest city--not an easy task, but got to keep it chugging. Works beautifully on the flat (should I move to Kansas?). Will happily charge up a one-block hill as long as you then go sideways on the flat for a block or two. Big Sigh Here. Whether it could be some other problem? One website yaks about catalytic converters breaking up and blocking lines.
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2000 5.4 4x4. 104k miles. Extended cab. Heres the issue, when you're at that spot on a slight upgrade and the tranny should down shift out of overdrive it will downshift kinda hard. Sometimes it does this and sometimes it wont. Its driving me nuts. I thought maybe change the fluid and filter and see what happens, but a tranny guy that I don't know from the other guy said dont waste your money its more than likely a broken spring behind a piston. I put a new motor in this truck about 10k ago so I can wrench. It did this before the motor swap too.
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I have a code P1740 that sets after a couple of drive cycles. This is preceeded by a flashing "Overdrive Off" light, until the MIL eventually comes on.
The only driveability symptom seems to be a premature downshift into first when slowing down. When cruising at highway speeds, I can turn OD on or off using the switch on the end of the shift lever and all appears OK.
Could it be the OD solenoid, and if so is this something I could change myself?
2001 F-150 4.6L 51K miles
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Just did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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I haven't really gotten under it to check this out, but my truck (see signature) has a slight vibration on take off. It only does it when the wheels are turned to the right or left. They don't have to be turned very far either. It doesn't do it on straight line take offs, or on a take off from a rolling stop. ONLY when pulling off from a dead stop and the front wheels are turned any degree to the right or left. I'm running mostly bald all terrain tires, the wheels are not bent. My current wheels are new to the truck, and the problem was there with the previous rim/tire combination. The rear end doesn't seem to have any slack in it. The transmission shifts like a top. There are no other clanks or vibrations anywhere in the drivetrain and it drives good.
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Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
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I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
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Recently noticed when driving, I'll hear and feel a slight clicking noise coming from my steering column. I can be going straight or turning. it is intermittent. I've look underneath and nothing seems obvious. when the truck is in park, I've tried to manhandle the steering wheel, the steering wheel is solid. the truck is a 1998 f150xl v6.
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I have 2002 f150, fx4, ext cab, 110000miles 5.4 automatic truck, i just replaced my spark plugs, it still have a little miss, thought spark plugs will resolve but its the same, im wondering if i should change O2 sensors? clean EGR Valve? IAC valve? i am not getting good gas mileage and maybe its this missfire or something, its runs good without any problems, just this slight miss makes me think if its the cause to bad MPG.
I tried to find threads with pictures of how to change O2, how to clean EGR, and IAC, i remember seeing these threads but cant find em. And you think these three things will resolve my MPG and the slight miss?
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I have a 2001 f150 5.4 with 200,900 miles. Just bought the truck about six months ago off my dad when he got a new one. I am now experiencing what seems to be a slight misfire. With the hood up pulling the throttle around 2200 rpm starts making a loud knock. Above that rpm nothing and below that nothing. Standing by the tailpipe it sounds like a small backfire. It Idles really rough and when you get that sound out of the tailpipe it jumps like its hiccuping. And tailpipe is vibrating quite a bit.
Things I have done in the past month include replacing the pcv valve, changing spark plugs, cleaning throttle body, cleaning MAF, took down exhaust to check cats because i was experiencing a power loss and bogging. When the exhaust was off i punched the two rear cats. I ran a bottle of iso heat in the gas. Everything seems to have supported the power problem but now less than a week later i am starting to experience the knock and backfire type sounds.
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I have a 97 F150 4.6. The truck has developed a slight stumble/misfire when under acceleration. Once at speed it runs fine. It has not given any codes. I've checked for them several times. The plugs and wires have been changed. Is it possible that a coil pack could be bad without throwing a code?
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I have 05 V8 and noticed that when I come to a complete stop the transmission is still in 2nd...then after a second or so it shifts to 1st with a slight bump.... I had an 04 V6 Touareg and never had this problem...
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I have a 2003 screw 4x2 with the 4.6, 148,000 miles, and I'm not sure what kind of transmission. Recently when the truck would shift into second it would hesitate and I would feel a slight grind, but it only did it when it would shift at 2000 rpm, if it shifted at 2500 rpm it would shift fine. I checked the fluid level, it was full, it smelled okay, looked *fine.
After pulling a boat (19 foot bass boat...nothing too heavy) it started to shake violently when I'd take off from a red light. So I dropped the pan and changed the filter, The fluid was dark red and smelled a little burnt. I put 4qts of fluid in it along with some Lucas transmission fix. The shake during take off is gone, and the grinding while shifting into second got a lot better but didn't go away completely.
However, now the grinding into second has has gotten worse again, and if I make a right turn from a red light it grinds and feels like its slipping until it shifts. I am not sure why making a right turn would affect it but its definitely worse when i turn right, left turns are fine. I'm guessing my transmission is going out and I just need to get it rebuilt...
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97 f150 4.2 ... Got a pickup awhile back and was smoking excessive mostly blue. Pulled the motor and had exhaust valve with hole in it and intake valve not seating on separate cylinders. All new gaskets and put back in truck. Deleted catalytic since they were both destroyed and cleaned muffler as best I could. Now it smokes but mostly white when revved up and maybe slight blue at idle. It's not using coolant or oil but went through five gallons of gas in short time.
Tests I have done : Checked fuel pressure and holds 38 psi all day. Tested maf o2 sensors, one is bad and tested vacuum and compression all good. It seems to be over fueling to the extreme. idles a little rough and will backfire on occasion. No check engine light but had all the o2 sensor issue codes. I'm leaning toward bad PCM... Would that cause the smoke rough idle and super rich condition??
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Driving the last week, gone about 10 - 15miles when all the sudden I noticed a stumbling in motor while going up hills. Got where I was going, shut her off and came back a few minutes later, loaded the kids and popped the hood. Nothing obvious but a vac hose from the vac reservoir(?) to TB was a little rough looking. Jumped in, hard to start - low on fuel or ignition and idled at 300 - 400 till throttle got it going. Has started and idled fine ever since. Raced home with the whole 15 miles stumbling up hills - repeated that every drive since after a few miles of driving. Warming the motor up prior to driving doesn't seem to speed up the problem - it takes a few miles to start. Assumed fuel pump at this point.
Got to work on it. Replaced the suspect vacuum hose. Nope. Checked fuel psi - 31 and 40 w/o vacuum. Doesn't hold pressure - reading conflicting things on whether the system should hold psi with key cycle. It doesn't - bleeds to 0 in minute. Replaced fuel filter, regulator and pump. Checked the relay and pump after install - good click and good hum. Felt like problem was gone but I didn't drive more than a few miles each time I checked due to pulling the bed for the tank work. Plus we dropped 30 - 40 degrees while working it.
Never a CEL but decided to checked codes.
Continuous pulled up Neutral Safety Switch that I replaced last year
KOEO - P0232 which I assumed was from pulling the inertia switch multiple times to do the fuel system work
One time I did get P1207(?) Cylinder Head Temp Sensor out of range. Got it once and never again. Curious..
KOER - has never found a problem
The cold seems to have lessened the problem making me think electronics. My BIL is saying #4 or #5 coil or plug. I am starting to feel like I am chasing a gremlin.
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OK, I have a 1997 F150 2wd 3 door with a 4.2, approximately 130000 miles on it. I am the 2nd owner and have only had it for a couple months.
I noticed it ran a little rough on start up but smoothed out after it warmed up so I wasn't too concerned. CEL was on but it ran fine. I got the truck from my FIL and he said that it just had new hoses put on and the CEL came on after that. I noticed a slight coolant smell and after a big leak by the water pump I discovered that the guy who fixed it didn't have any of the hose clamps as tight as they should have been.
The heat went from really good to non-existent the last few weeks, never had any over heating issues though. Last week I was driving it to work and the temp gage spiked the light came on. I stopped and checked the coolant and it seemed fine. After I sat for a minute or two I checked the temp and it came back to normal. I figured it was because I let some pressure out of the system. It got hot again when I got to work but didn't spike at all driving home. I figured the water pump or t-stat was bad.
I replaced those on Saturday. When I filled the coolant up it ran rough and smoked but stopped and ran fine. Temp was fine but heat was nada. Today same thing, smokes like a steam engine for a few minutes then runs fine. Coolant smell is noticeable. I had the codes scanned and got P0303, P0174, and P0171.
I am thinking intake gaskets, since it seems to be an issue with these engines. I am going to fix it before I get a hydro lock situation, so what would be the next thing to look at before deciding that they need changed? Do I need any Ford specific tools to do this job?
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