Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Significant Pull To The Right Most Noticeable On The Highway
Aug 24, 2015
My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
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I've owned this Civic since new, now at 153K miles. This is a recurring problem that I've been having for over a year. First symptom was there would be no heat coming from the heater at idle with the motor well warmed up. Add some rpm's and the heat returned. The reason was not enough coolant in the system, filled up radiator and all OK. Then it happened again and there is coolant in the overflow tank, but pull the radiator cap and no fluid under cap. Fill radiator and all OK, but it kept happening. I replaced the OEM radiator cap with a new "Slant" brand for an '03 Civic. No better, no worse.
Last week I had a significant overheating event while on a highway. I pulled into a "Dollar Store" parking lot, went into the store and bought 50/50 coolant and shop rags and let the car cool off for 30 min. When I pulled the cap, it was a steamy mess and I let it cool some more. Eventually I put in the coolant and finished up the drive with no more overheating. The overflow coolant container was at the "full" mark all during the overheating event.
At this point I took it to my trusted mechanic. My mechanic determined that the overflow tank was clogged and he blew out the line. So, I hoped all was fixed. But I don't think so. With the car cool this morning I pulled the radiator cap and got a swish noise indicating some pressure release. The level of coolant in the overflow contain hasn't moved. It still seems coolant is not being pulled from the overflow container back in to the radiator when the car cools off. I blew into the radiator top (where the cap goes) and that did produce lots of bubbles in the overflow tank. It seems it is no longer plugged - but why isn't the coolant behaving properly?
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Just got new tires Friday. Now I have a very noticeable shaking right at 35-40mph. Doesn't do this at any other speeds and test d up to 80mph. Took back to where I got the tires and told them and they rebalanced them and yet it still does it. Could it be a bad tire? What am I missing?
02 F-150 xlt 5.4 4x4 170k miles. Stock rim and tire size.
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
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I have 97 f150 x-cab 4.6 auto 4x4. I'm gettin ready to pull motor & trans to rebuild both. I was wondering if I can pull both while still bolted together without having to remove the cab??? And what else will needed to be removed.
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I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
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I recently purchased a f150 with a reg cab short bed 4.6 4x4, and when you put it in drive the it shifts up to second fine, but when goes to third just revs up doesnt pull at all. Have to shut o.d. off and goes steady but run 2500 rpms to go 40 mph. I was told to check the solenoids but i dont know, if i do need a new trans how do i identify my trans. I know it has the code "U" on the door sticker, but its an 4r70 w code-w. But the junk yard has a YL3P-FA and a YL3P-JA?
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I just had my EGR valve and hose and DPFE sensor replaced and the truck is running better than it has in quite a while except that whenever I turn to the left and pull into a parking space it dies.
I've read that it could be a bad power steering pump. This would make sense because mine is pretty noisy when I make a left or right turn. However, it has never caused the engine to stall before. This didn't begin happening until immediately after the recent maintenance.
Is there something I should be looking for that my be related to the new EGR valve/hose or DPFE sensor?
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Engine will start and run but will miss in a pull and die sometimes but will start back, we hooked it to a scanner and it said (intake wiring) it wasn't a dealer hook up just a gas station garage, we have already done plugs and wires.
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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My truck is starting to shift strange. As it warms up and I'm in drive, it will shift between drive and 2nd by itself. When I pull up to a stop lite, it's like it's stuck in drive and doesn't downshift. Ultimately it dies. I've checked my fluid and its fine. Any ideas? Oh and my engine light is on. Can a parts store find the code for the issue I'm having?
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My 2001 4.6L F-150 has been sitting on the driveway, used once every 2 weeks or so for the last 3 yrs. I came to start it a few days ago and it kept turning over but not starting. The key security chip is working, battery is charged, all plugs are firing, fuel pump fuse and relay check good. When I turn the key to ON, sometimes I hear the fuel pump priming, other times it doesn't. The times it does prime, the truck fires right up.
The times it doesn't prime, engine won't start. When the pump does prime, and while the engine is running, the pump makes a noticeable buzzing sound, much louder than normal. When the pump primes. fuel pressure measures at 42psi in the ON position, 36psi with engine running, and 46psi with engine running and vacuum hose removed. I believe all these are within specs.
My question is this: Is it safe to assume that the pump is going bad and will eventually fail completely? My second question is (and I know this can be debated til the end of time) should I get the Motorcraft or aftermarket? I have Airtex, Spectra, Carter, and Delphi available locally.
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02 f250 SD 5.4 zf6 manual xcase ext cab long bed...
When I'm cruising down the highway it's most noticeable. 5th gear anywhere from 65mph+ I'll let off the gas and it'll make a "errrRRRt" until I press the gas again. I've recently installed new :
- Front u joints, ball joints, hub assemblies, rotors, calipers, pads
- Rear drive shaft u joints
- Front diff fluid
- Trans fluid
- Tcase fluid
- 4" zone lift kit
All of these things did nothing to effect the noise. it seems to be coming from between the clutch and rear shaft (either clutch, trans, tcase). I don't think it is a motor noise or suspension noise.
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I recently had compressor for air suspension replaced on my '04 Touareg due to faulty equipment. VW replaced with new compressor. However, when the vehicle was returned to me it drove much rougher. There was significant sway at higher highway speed and you can feel every dip and pebble in the highway after the compressor was replaced Even in the "comfort" mode the ride was ridiculously stiff. I returned the vehicle to VW 3days later with the complaint about the ride roughness and asked if they could adjust the specs to improve the ride and handling. They stated that the vehicle is within "spec" for the ride control. Therefore, they can do nothing about the problem. How to remedy this problem??
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Owned my 2009 for 6 months now. Ever since purchasing it, car will vibrate significantly at highway speeds when first driving it, then decrease by 90% after a few miles. At first, since I purchased in winter, thought it was cold flat spots on tires. Dealer changed tires 3 times, finally with a new set of Turanza OEM tires. Still does it.
Service manager said he drove new 460's and they all do the same thing for a few miles. I have seen other comments on internet from other owners who report the same phenomenon. Don't think it is the tires since we went through 3 sets and it still does it in the summer. What else could cause a vibration until the car is warmed up?
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Is it normal that while driving I can see my headlights wiggling? I have only noticed it on the highway and it is on all types of highway surfaces. I wouldn't doubt it if it was also happening on regular streets as well.
What I mean is that while driving at night on the highway if I look at highway signs or big rigs in front of my car I can see the lights shining from my headlights and they are shaking like crazy.
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I got my Passat about 1 month ago, and I have this pull to the right. Which is annoying, as I drive quite a bit on the highway.
At the dealer, they "fixed" it by moving the tires around and matching tires with the same side wall rigidity. I got my car back, and it's still pulling to the right.
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I bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
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As we know, flashing dash lights are a part of owning a Volkswagen. Even moreso a modded Volkswagen. Last night I was treated to my first CEL during 3rd gear pull merging onto the highway. At 4200 RPM, the car cut timing and throttle ferociously and the CEL came on and flashed for about 10 seconds. The road was rough so I anticipated that it was the car registering a knock and Bronson said it could've been that. I pulled over, checked everything I could visually at 1:00 AM and it all seemed fine. Car accelerated and boosted well from then on, on the way home.
This morning I got in for the drive to work and noticed within 2-3 miles that the car was idling strangely. Not long after, the CEL came on. It would surge from 1,000 to 1,300 RPM randomly. I took it back home to pick up my VCDS and my laptop and scanned the following codes:
Code:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 001 - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
Since then I have checked:
- Intake hoses/clamps
- Intercooler hoses/clamps
- Diverter valve hoses/clamps
- Throttle body pipe/clamps
- PCV hoses (The PCV on the valve cover was replaced by the BFI catch can. It has been on the car for over 6,000 miles with no issues, and all of the fittings are tight.)
- Boost tap hoses/clamps
I reset the codes and drove it to work and all was well, but I'm staying out of boost until I find out what the problem is. The car has stock plugs, stock coils and stock DV and only 7,800 miles.
Thread here with the full VCDS scan: [URL] ....
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