I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 RepliesI have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
View 6 RepliesAs part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
Ive got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
View 3 RepliesI've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
View 12 RepliesI'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
I was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
View 9 RepliesWith the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
Couldn't get the bolts out of the bushings so just bought new mounts. Was wondering to have the torque value for the u-bolts...
View 2 RepliesWhat is the size of the bolts on the rear axle that hold the shock absorber? I believe its an M12 x70 mm long??
View 7 RepliesI managed to get the drivers side exhaust manifold and all of its bolts off no problem. On the passenger side I had 1 bolt head that was already broken and I have only 1 other that is still holding on for dear life. I've been soaking it in aerokroil for awhile now and no luck. I tried some PB blaster today because I am willing to try anything. I also tried heating up the bolt with a torch and some map gas but not sure if I am heating it up enough or not. Anyways, everything else has been going great, got the uppipes off and the valley, turbo and pedestal all cleaned up good. Just need to get the last whole bolt and broken bolt out so I can install the new manifolds. What I should try to remove the last 2 bolts. How hot should I get the bolt when trying to remove it? Or should I be heating the engine block?
View 12 RepliesThe bolt that holds the dipstick on the valve cover. i have tried for ever to get this thing off. soaked it , got a skinny wrench on the nut underneath but think it might be stripped (1/2 inch grinded out a little). going to try and get a set of skinny wrenches tomorrow , mine bent. tried vise grips on top of the bolt and put a box wrench on the nut , and gave it my all. The damn thing won't budge.
Also, any tips on the rest of the valve cover bolts. I had to remove some from inside the fender well but barely got to them. My question is not getting these out but getting them back in. And how the heck to you torque these things??? The bolt i mentioned above is creating problem, and I only have so much time
I recently broke my rear shock mount plate, it is rusted to crap. So I need to fix it, I was gonna weld it but there isn't enough metal to weld. It looks like it can bolt in bolt out. I am having trouble find a replacement.
View 3 RepliesMy wifes 01 Supercrew had the tailgate cable pop off the other day- it came unscrewed from the tailgate. I went to screw it back in, but there is nothing to screw it into. Whatever was there to accept the bolt is gone. There seems to be an access panel on the tailgate (appx. 48 x 8) that I cant seem to get off- it like its being held in place from inside but I cant see how. I slightly bent up the panel trying to remove it, then lightly tapped it back in place- now I have a ding on the outside finish. So, what was in there to hold the bolt, can I just use a regular nut with a washer if I can get my fingers in there, and whats with the access door ?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
View 2 RepliesWhat the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
View 1 RepliesMy 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
View 13 RepliesWas replacing the struts and front ball joints on my wife's '04 Explorer last week. I get to the last one (driver's side front) and the lower strut bolt seems to be frozen to the bushing. I heated it up and beat on it a little bit. Nothing. Just wondering for some other way or am I going to have to cut it out?
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