2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
2001 F150 5.4L Triton Motor. Everything seemed o.k. then got the Engine Service Light. Checked with reader and above codes only appeared. Read numerous articles/videos and pulled the PCV hose/boot assembly and replaced the whole thing with oem part. Visually checked for disconnected tubing = none found. After this and with the new hose assembly in place I performed a reset. With the scanner still connected restarted engine and read values: ST FTRM1&2 = -.08~+2.3, both oxygen sensor voltages are varying and the LT FTRM1&2 hang around +26 and +28.
From what I understand the ST seems o.k. but the long term is WAY OUT OF WHACK. Started it up again and took carb cleaner spray and covered all the connections I could see = no change in engine rpm. No cracks in the air cleaner body. Big plug to the MAF was inserted and plugging the hole. I am thinking of making a smoke "machine" and trying that or removing the hoses from the throttle body and plugging the holes in the throttle body and see if that clears them up. IF it does then connect one by one and keep checking the values. Lot more work but I am at a loss.
2002 F150 - 5.4 ... So just bought this truck about a month an a half ago. No problems but the other day the SES came on. It is showing P0171 and P0174. And P0000 (almost forgot that one) was told that's generic though. Haven't really noticed a difference in the way it's running. Has been extremely cold here in WV but the only thing I can notice (or think I notice) is the gas mileage has gone down a little. After reading some on this forum I'm looking for a vacuum leak correct?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
I have a 99 f150 with the 4.2l v6 with a 5 speed 173000 miles. I picked it up not to long ago. When I first got it it had both the P0171 & P0174 lean on bank 1&2 it was also siting for a while. I replaced the fuel filter which was filled with black fuel, also changed the PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor, and changed the oil. I cleared the code, drove it for a little bit and the light came back on after 20 miles.
I then proceeded to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets. Upon doing that i noticed that i was missing one of the linkages for the IMRC. I went to the junkyard and pulled off another linkage rod off the same motor. ordered new plastic clips, put the IMRC on cleaned everything up and began putting it back together. I also cleaned the Injectors while i had them out as well and put in new spark plugs and wires.
Put everything back together. code was cleared since the battery was disconnected. drove it and then the engine light came back on again. this time it was only the p0174. so i then both the upstream and downstream O2 sensors on bank 2, reset the code and it came back on again. I'm lost.
2003 Sport Trac. My car was not starting, told my fuel pump, replaced twice and nothing. Found out about inertia switch and changed it, now car runs.
Before this switch blew out my car was running perfectly, no check engine, nothing. Now i have changed my fuel pump twice and put a brand new fuel filter in and soon after i get lean codes P0171 and P0174. My fuel pressure is 60psi at idle and drops to 0 after about 30 seconds when the car is shut off.
A lot of my intake is new since i did have a vacuum leak before, so i do not suspect that is it, especially since this happened after the new fuel pump. I am completely stuck as to what i should do. And i get hesitation when trying to accelerate sometimes
I've got an '03 Explorer with the 4.0L SOHC that I got for a deal on craigslist as it needed timing chain tensioners. I got that all done and it runs and drives relatively well, but it idles a little bit rough - especially when it's sitting in gear at a stop light. My go-to first attempt for idling issues is to squirt off the MAF sensor, throttle body, and squirt some starter fluid around the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks (though it's possible I may have missed a line or two). Neither seemed to work much. I cleared the codes, dumped some Sea Foam and fresh fuel in it and drove it around a little bit and it threw the CEL light, got about 10 mpg, and generally just didn't seem to have as much power as it should (though I have no experience with the 4.0 in a explorer, soI'm not counting that as a hard fact).
I pulled the codes and I've got a:
P2196 (O2 sensor stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1)
(and)
P0174 (system too lean - bank 2)
That seems kinda weird to me. Bank 1 is rich and bank 2 is lean? That would make it idle and run weird, for sure, but I'm having a bit of a hard time figuring out what would cause that. I think my next step would be to check/replace the plugs, but that's more of a shot in the dark than a proper diagnosis.
So my truck is reading a code at P0172 which means bank one is too rich. I replaced all of my o2 sensors, cleaned my MAF, and replaced PCV and hoses connected to it. What else could it be?
View 3 RepliesI thought my brakes were sticking........don't think thats the issue. My rear end bounces....you can see it, and its only certain times...mostly when its hot, or I've been driving for a while (an hour maybe)
I have been taking notes on the symptoms, and finally got some noise today. When the rear end starts to hop it sounds like you are riding on rims and it will actually slow the truck down if you let off the gas.
The brakes aren't hot beyond reason, and I've noticed that it occurs mostly after making a sharp turn???? Or a fast medium turn such as a quick merge.
I think something is either coming loose in the rear or ?????? Not sure Also, when I pull my camper I haven't had it happen yet.......may be a coincidence.....? Or the fact that I take turns slower when its attached.
1999 4.6 F150. So my truck is 2wd, and I have noticed that after about an hour of driving, and regular braking at turns and stop lights that between 25 and 55mph my rear end bounces like I am riding on speed humps. Not subtle at all. You can look in the rear view mirror and see the bed going up and down about 2". Feels like it has square tires if you know what I mean.
Anyway, I checked the rear brakes thinking maybe they are old and starting to stick. I have never smelled any brake burning, but I can only assume its the brakes because in that same hour the rear brakes develop an uneven feeling. I am sure you know what I'm talking about......when your brakes go bad you have that on/off brake feeling. Like surging I guess.
They are drums by the way. The shoes themselves don't look bad.....there is still meat on them. Maybe about an 1/8". No rivets showing or anything. The passenger rear shoe has one hairline crack at the top, but no other signs of damage.
Lastly, I checked the rear end and I wasn't sure what the margin of acceptable play is for in and out movement of the rear wheels. If I grab my tire I can push in and pull out with about an 1/8" of play......normal????
Ford F150 1999 5.4 XLT... I've had this truck since may 2013 from the 2nd owner who only drove it
occasionally to make sure it ran. For the last 5 weeks there have been two occasions where my service engine light appeared...once on 12/28/15 and again today. Both read cylinder 4 misfire. Upon searching this piece which I'm assuming is the boot that covers or houses the spark plug is very unsecure and causes a shaking feeling as I accelerate or idle. Being so far back I can't reach it with extensions on a ratchet and barely fit my hand back there. Having to consider taking it into a shop for further analysis and repair but I'm trying to save as much money as possible as I am in between jobs since mid January. I have a picture attached...
2003 Ford Explorer, with P0171 and P0174 codes, common problem, as I have read. I pulled the cover over the engine off, and I immediately found the likely problem. There is a hose/connection that runs from the valve cover on the right side, about 6 inches behind the oil fill tube across and looks like it comes into the Carb. Where it turns to come into the carb is a rubber elbow. This elbow has a hole in it. Temporarily I have used electrical tape, but when I run the vehicle, I see the elbow begin to collapse. I believe the elbow is getting weak with age, plus the hole/tear doesn't work. Anyway, what i the part number, or what this is called. Hoping Advance Auto, or Napa will have it, just don't know what it is called, and can't figure out the part number. Otherwise I will pull it off tomorrow and take to advance and see if they can match it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1977 f250 460 with c6. As far as I now everything is stock on the motor. The carb is a motorcraft but I cant see what model it is, there is a ID tag that I need to get the numbers off of so I can see what I have.
I don't know much about carbs so I'm trying to learn as I go, but what has me wondering about the secondaries is going up inclines. We have a canyon that is a decent grade and long, I was towing a empty flatbed trailer and with my foot all the way down could never get it above 40 mph it just felt like that was it. I have been out playing with no trailer and it feels like I can get them to open up when it down shifts, but cruising along at 55 and stomp it nothing.
I am worried about pulling our camp trailer with it and that is the main reason I got the truck with a 460. What to check?
My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
The truck ran fine this morning and this afternoon I had trouble with the truck running at idle.
The idle is at about 450RPM in park. Runs smooth with no miss but if you bring the idle up and then let off quickly it stalls. Can stall while trying to idle at warm up also. Sometimes it will stall at a light but I think it is related to taking my foot off the pedal quickly.
There is no check engine light on and there are no codes. I have 138K on the engine now. Both air & fuel filter were replaced about a month ago as well as the PCV valve.
1997 F-150 XLT Extended cab. 4.6L VIN 6, 5 speed manual, 4x4. Replaced speed sensor on transfer case, speedometer is not completely dead but bounces around. Seems to be about 10 mph below actual speed. When I come to a stop say at a red light speedometer drops to zero at about 20 mph or so. Cruise also inop. It seems like whenever I let off the gas to stop or shift gears the speedometer drops down but then goes back up but not to the right speed. It has the mechanical odometer by the way. Everything else seems to be working fine. New speed sensor did not come with the plastic gear so I had to reuse the old one. Not sure if that gear was bad or not, but it was the pink one if that matters.
View 6 RepliesI will try to keep this short. Picked up a 2000 f-150 4.2 for my nephews first truck last night. Bought it blind against my better judgement, but the price was right. Got it home, odometer didn't work, fixed the solder joint and was happy it only had 132k on it. Heater core was plugged solid. Got it flushed and at least now its has luke warm heat until I have time for a full coolant flush and new core.
Next on my list is the high idle and engine lights. Its idles around 1300-1700, cold or hot sometimes it drops down. I only have a cheap scanner, but I have 2 codes. PO171 and PO174. Where should I start with diagnosing this? I would assume vacuum leak. Any common spots to check on these?
So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2000 F150 4.2L and I have 2 codes PO304 & PO174 so far I have changed my plugs & wires,fuel filter,mass air flow sensor, and coil pack...it is still running rough under a load and a little rough on idle..
View 9 Repliesso i bought this truck about 3 months ago and it was running real bad when i got it, I went ahead and changed the lower and upper intake gaskets, cleaned throttle body, egr ports on lower and upper intake, did timing chain cover gaskets and 3 bad injectors i found while doing gaskets, truck ran better but still black smoking(running rich) and getting 8 mpg. So I changed fan clutch,fuel pump fuel filter,airfilter,MAF sensor(old one was pulling 14.4 volt), DPFE sensor and all 4 oxygen sensors(old ones carboned up and real sooty).
I've checked my egr valve while idling and when it opens the engine just about stalls, truck seems to be running better but CEL light came on again and is throwing these CODES:
P0453 (evap emission ctrl sys pressure sensor high input),
P0141,
P0153,
P0135(oxy sensors),
P0401exhaust gas recirculation flow insuff detected,
P0460fuel tank level indicator circuit error.
And I believe I've told everything i know ...