Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Shake Through Steering When Hitting Road Cracks
Jul 8, 2017
My 02 F150 4x4 at times gets a shake through the steering when hitting road cracks, pothole fills, etc. Would installing a steering damper system work or am I missing something to check in the front end. Ball joints are good, all steering linkage good, new shocks all around, control arm bushings look good and don't seem to shift when prying with a bar. Also changed all sway bar bushings and links. Maybe the control arms just have to be changed with 103,000 miles on it even if they appear OK? What about using an aftermarket steering damper on a stock F150? My long gone 82 GMC 4x4 had one from factory but it was also a solid axle setup.
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I just had vehicle inspected and replaced the wheel hub assemblies on the front Left and Right wheels in order to pass. Now while driving strong shaking occurs occasionally when over 60+ mph or at any time after a hit a bump in the road. have to slow down below 30 for it to stop.
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The roads here in Maine this winter were especially awful with potholes and bumps. My '03 Ford Focus Wagon has recently developed a noise that I can't diagnose. The noise can be best described as a "rattle" from the front end when going over very small bumps/cracks in the road. It almost sounds like loose shocks. They are the original shocks and have 130k miles on them.
Big bumps are not a problem. Car does not bottom out, sway upon braking, or bounce when I put my weight on it and release. Several years ago I had a "creaking" from the front end and my mechanic replaced some bushings which fixed the problem. I originally thought this was the same, but it doesn't sound like that - worried it could be the struts but I want to diagnose it a little better before I bring it to a mechanic and just say that I have a front end noise...
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I have a 2011 Prius 2, with 35K miles, and have noticed a clicking sound in the steering when hitting a small bump or hole in the road. If the car is parked, I can rock the steering wheel back and forth, and hear a clicking sound. I do not remember the noise being there until recently.
Also the radio reception seems to have gotten weaker. If I am on a trip out of town, it now seems that I am looking for stronger stations frequently, as static interferes. I had the car to the dealer for this a few months ago, and they said they could not duplicate the problem
This car is about ready to drop off the warranty, and would like to have Toyota pay for the repair if it is needed.
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So with just me in the car i get a clunk in the rear going over medium size cracks in the road. but with the wife and kids in the car the clunk is not as prevalent. VMR springs...
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I have this front end rattle or clanking. It happens over bumps and cracks in the road. The rattle seems to be more on the passengers side to under the middle of the car. The stats of my Wagon - lowered on Bilstien Sports/H&R springs. All The control arms have been replaced back in 04 and maybe 40k miles ago. Drive axles were replaced once a long time ago, before it was lowered.
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I have a 2001 f150 and when i go around 55 mph it starts to jerk/shake. and sometimes it randomly idles high like the rpm will go up a bit and go down. I also noticed the exhaust manifolds leak sometimes and I don't know if that's what is making it shake. from what i was told it could be the coil packs, spark plugs, or fuel filter but my check engine light is not on!
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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I purchased a 2003 F-150 Screw a few months back. Within a week I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad ujoint. To it to a shop and they confirmed it. They told me they replaced both. I only drive about 4 miles to work around 40 mph. Friday I had to go out of town and this was the trucks 1st road trip. I noticed that around 55 the truck feels fine. At 65 there is a shake / vibration. At 75 it is very noticeable. At 1st I though front end, but after a few hour I noticed the feeling can be felt in the seat of my pants type of thing. Or my foot on the kicker panel. Truck has 27K on it.
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I bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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1999 f150 5.4 it's been over 3 months since It happened I hit a pretty big mud hole and right after it starts bogging and running rough and won't drive I made it home and second and I've been driving it around town in second gear since. I've been trying different things since it happened, It runs rough in drive, reverse, neutral, and first (towing gear) but revs up just fine in second (towing gear).
So far I've
- Checked all fuses
- Changed plugs checks coil packs
- Dropped pan changed tranny fluid and filter
I broke a heater core line so I replaced the intake manifold and got a good look at everything and cleaned it out
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked all connections
- Checked all vacuum hoses
- Replaced maf sensor
- Pulled the codes but I don't have them handy.
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I have the stock 16-inch Bioline wheels on my '10 JSW TDI. After hitting a big pothole on the Pennsylvania turnpike (stupid of me, I know), the car started to shake noticeably above 55 m.p.h. Tire pressure was normal. When I replaced the wheel (right front) with the spare, the shaking went away.
Did I damage the wheel? Normally, I would attribute shaking to the alignment being off, but---again---the car doesn't shake when the spare is on. I would have thought it would take more to damage a 16-inch alloy wheel, but what do I know?
I'm trying to decide whether I should pay to have the alignment checked or start scouring the classifieds for a replacement wheel already.
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I have a '98 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4Door, 4WD, 5-Speed Manual Trans, 4.0L Inline 6 cyl. mileage: 220,000+At highway speed if I hit a bump the car will start to shake like to fall apart. The only thing that stops the shaking is to ease of on the gas and it slowly subsides. What is causing this? Suspension? Transmission? Steering? Incidentally, the steering is not specifically affected, other than the fact that the whole car is shaking like a jack-hammer.
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I have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
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I have noticed a serious bump steer or a violent jerking action when hitting a bump in the road. Just over a year ago I replaced ball joints,tie rods, sway bar links (2nd set since cutting off original). I used MOOG components. I was shocked to see the sway bar links loose once again. Is there a certain way to tighten them or is there a better product available. Mostly stock 1999 'ploder with fire wires and scremin demon coil pack.
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I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
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My 1999 f150 is having issues of bucking while going down the road and it only happen on a hot day. It's like someone is turning the key off then back on.It's only for a split second. I'm having trouble determining if this truck has the fpdm or not. and if this may be the issue. Fuel Pump Driver Module ?
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
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My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
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I recently purchased a 1997 F150 4.2 Liter. On the way home it started missing. Within the next few days it died on the side of the road. After towing home I found no spark. A few days later I t started but only for a few minuites and died. No spark, coil pack is new so I replaced the CKP and it started up. Drove it about 1/2 Mile and died again, No spark again. Not getting power to coil pack when I am turning it over. So in short, new coil pack and CKP sensor and no spark. If it sits for a few days it may start or it may not. But if it does it only runs for a short period and then no spark again.
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