Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Shake / Vibration At High Speeds
Sep 29, 2007
I purchased a 2003 F-150 Screw a few months back. Within a week I noticed a noise that sounded like a bad ujoint. To it to a shop and they confirmed it. They told me they replaced both. I only drive about 4 miles to work around 40 mph. Friday I had to go out of town and this was the trucks 1st road trip. I noticed that around 55 the truck feels fine. At 65 there is a shake / vibration. At 75 it is very noticeable. At 1st I though front end, but after a few hour I noticed the feeling can be felt in the seat of my pants type of thing. Or my foot on the kicker panel. Truck has 27K on it.
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I have a 4-cyl 2003 Camry LE with a bit of a vibration issue, but first, some backstory.
I put in new tires about 20,000 miles back and I started to notice a pull to the left side and no amount f alignment would fix it and there was no other discernible issue with the front end.
I read about how some tires have some internal issues with the radial belts and I decided to rotate the tires. No more pull. It didn't change the fact that the tire may be defective and still causing issues.
Could a tire that caused a strong pull on the front end cause a vibration at high speeds in the rear?
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Why my truck shake/ vibrates only at high speeds above 65mph. Once I drop below 65 is smooth as can be.
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I have just over 11K miles on my 2011 and now notice steering wheel vibration & slight shake at 70 mph. The passenger can also feel it.
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I have a 2001 f150 and when i go around 55 mph it starts to jerk/shake. and sometimes it randomly idles high like the rpm will go up a bit and go down. I also noticed the exhaust manifolds leak sometimes and I don't know if that's what is making it shake. from what i was told it could be the coil packs, spark plugs, or fuel filter but my check engine light is not on!
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My trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
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I just recently lowered my mk6 with h&r springs(1.2 front and rear) and installed wheels and tires from tire rack. I am noticing a lot of vibration at the wheel, pedals and seats while accelerating or moving at higher speeds. I had an alignment done after the springs were installed and all 4 tires/wheels have been road force balanced. One of the tires rated at 20lbs which apparently is acceptable but Tire rack sent me a new tire anyway, which I just had put on today.
Still the same vibration is there. Next step tire rack wants to do is switch out all 4 of my Michelin for a different tire. The guys at tires plus feel that there is no issue with the tires and I think I agree. Could the lowering springs be the problem?
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My wife has an Acura, and when braking at higher speeds, she is getting a really bad "vibration". I am assuming the rotors are warped. We had both axles (rotors/pads) done last year (about 40k ago) at Midas. After they did them, we had to take the car back about 3 times for squeaky pads, and I swear a slight vibration, but they didn't fix them. Anyway, even though they offer "lifetime pads," I refuse to go back there.
So, her pads now started squeaking again. We were dealing with the warped rotors until we had some extra money and time to take it in. At this point, I am wondering where I should take it. I have no clue if the pads are good, and I'm guessing the rotors just need to be turned since they were just put on last brake job.
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My 02 F150 4x4 at times gets a shake through the steering when hitting road cracks, pothole fills, etc. Would installing a steering damper system work or am I missing something to check in the front end. Ball joints are good, all steering linkage good, new shocks all around, control arm bushings look good and don't seem to shift when prying with a bar. Also changed all sway bar bushings and links. Maybe the control arms just have to be changed with 103,000 miles on it even if they appear OK? What about using an aftermarket steering damper on a stock F150? My long gone 82 GMC 4x4 had one from factory but it was also a solid axle setup.
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I bought a 1997 f150 with 160l miles on it. It is a 4x4 with the 5.4 v automatic. While I'm drive and in 4th and 5th gear, the tranny shakes the whole truck and then shifts hard! I check the fluid and it's still good and red but looks like there is to much. I'm planning on removing some and adding some lucus additive in it. What could cause this???
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I was wondering if 1979 Dodge Vans had regular 727 transmissions, or 727 with lock ups? I was told that Chrysler switched to the lock-ups in mid year. How to confirm this? I was also told that if you use a trans on a 318 that had a lock up it would cause a vibration in the drive train at high speeds, and might damage seals in the engine and trans.
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I have a 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer. I have had 4 of these vehicles and have been very pleased. This latest one has 61000 miles and occasionally has a very strange vibration at speeds above 60 mph. It only happens occasionally and most often occurs at these higher speeds and worsens with increased speed (of 70-73 mph). The vibration is so alarming, that I will press my brakes to slow down, because it feels like the vehicle is starting to lose control. The problem is that when I press the brakes, the vibration intensifies about 3-4 fold! It feel as if the wheels are going to come off. It's a very frightening feeling. I have taken it to the shop and no one seems to know what it is. The tires are fine. Brakes are fine. Interestingly enough, if I lower the speed to 50-55 mph, the vibration lessens and eventually completely goes away.
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Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
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I have a 2007 dodge Dakota with 112K miles. At 105K I had the front brake rotors and pads replaced. The rear brakes were fine. There was a problem with one of the rotors and I returned a week or two later and one, which was warped, was replaced. Ever since that second visit I have had an intermittent vibration from the vehicle. When I brake the whole truck vibrates. And by vibrating, I mean some pretty heavy shaking. It is not the steering wheel vibrating. I took this back to the mechanic where they were unable to find any issues with the brakes. Also, we could not (of course) re-create the issue while it was in the shop. I have not been able to find the pattern. It happens when I am braking at high speeds, but not every time. It also happens at lower speed, but again, not every time.
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So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Malibu that gives through rotors every 6 months. I have replaced them 3 times now in 102,000 miles and had them turned multiple times. What happens is about 6,000 miles after I put new rotors on they warp and I get a violent vibration when braking at high speeds. I have been to 3 different dealerships and none of them can figure out why they continue to warp.
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I have a 2004 Honda Accord EX (4 cyl) with 102k miles. I bought it brand new and kept it completely in shape with regular service. For the past few months I start getting front end vibration at braking, mostly when slowing from high speeds and without any repair this vibration has now became common at all speed.... my diagnosis - I need to replace to turn disk/rotors....
While I have not remedy the rotor issue yet, I started getting this new vibration at 60 to 80 mph.... Below and above this range of speed i have no vibrations - the car will drive fine. This type of vibration in my experience for front wheel drives is mostly due to balancing or bad tires. so i took the easy way ..... and as i already needed tires well i dished out the dough and replaced all four with Michelin Primacy hoping that it will resolve the speed related vibration.... Well it did not?
I continue to drive as-is without addressing the real problem - coz I'm not sure what is causing the vibration.... now new additional vibration started on acceleration; any time I hit the gas pedal (normal acceleration or kick-down) I get vibration very similar to when a stick shift's gearbox required replacement/repair of the worn out pressure plate's (fingers/springs gets bent or weak) or the thrust bearing needs replacements/repair/grease packing. I'm from the old school stickshift transmission, my knowledge in automatic is very little - I have repaired Acura's automatic transmission before but I don't think repairing once will make me an expert in automatic.
So to summarize my issues or current state:
Issue# 1 front end vibration on braking
Issue# 2 front end vibration 60 to 80 mph speed only
Issue# 3 front end vibration on acceleration at all speed
The list above is in sequential order as I have experienced.
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I just bought a 2002 corolla with a salvage title. I am having trouble with the front passenger side vibration at high speeds 50mph on up. It had the vibration when I bought it and I put 4 brand new tires on it, and had the front end aligned and had a fellow mechanic look at it and and said everything up front was tight. The guy I bought it from said he had the front brakes just done but I feel a pulsating as when I apply the brakes. My fellow mechanic said he would turn the rotors next week, my question is what would be my next step if that not it, axle? I really wouldn't car but I drive this car 150 miles a day to work and its all highway.
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This has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.
However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.
I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.
When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.
Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?
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I have an 03 Aviator with the full-time AWD with about 138,000 miles on the odometer. The truck is reliable and I love it, but I keep noticing a shake and vibration going on, I notice it at almost any speed, I'm pretty sure it gets worse at high speeds and when braking ( especially at high speeds). would this be a transmission problem, a bad cv or u joint? or would it be bad tires or wheel bearings? shocks/struts, rotors?
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2003 7.3 Excursion, 130k, stock suspension with newer bushings, etc.
Vibration when braking at higher speeds - not felt as pulses through brake pedal or shimmy through steering wheel - rather, a "body" vibration. Stops as soon as the TC unlocks. Being a diesel I can't tap the brake to allow it to unlock like on the gasser 4R100's - its locked until it shifts down into 3rd. Turning off OD puts it into 3rd but locks TC (no way to "single out" TC). Only felt when braking in OD (though I haven't tried running up to highway speeds with OD off/trans in 3rd) - braking is completely smooth at all other times/gears/speeds and at all braking force (light, mod, heavy).
Front and rear pads are good with even wear and sufficient material, lugs evenly torqued, tires good/balanced, no sign of a stuck caliper or rotor warping, MM manual hubs unlocked. No driveshaft carrier on the Ex's, just a regular two joint shaft with recent Neapco Gold u-joints, no slip yoke play. Trans filter replaced 4k miles ago, 6 +/- qts DexIII/Merc exchanged when I did the filter, fluid smelt and looked fine. Transfer case fluid changed about 5k miles ago. Factory LSD rear diff not serviced recently but fluid suctioned from fill hole looks acceptable.
I'm afraid that something is going on with torque converter/shudder but I don't get any shudder or slip under acceleration or at any other time and gear shifts are smooth. I know that the 4R100's can be sketchy, especially with 130k, but want to get suggestions before digging into it. I've also got a very slow hydroboost leak/weep but the power steering fluid is properly filled. Steering is smooth and proper, brake pedal movement is normal so I assume there is no air in the lines.
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