Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rumbling Noise - Rear End Clutch Plates Going?
Mar 17, 2013
2000 f150 182000 makes a rumbling noise from rear end mainly when turning at slow speeds. Thought it might of been axle bearings so replaced them this weekend to no avail. I have the 9.75 limited slip rear end but what I found out this weekend is that the axle bearings are for 8.8 , the 9.75 bearings was to big.
So does this mean I have 9.75 ring gear with 8.8 axles ? I have been using royal purple 75-140 with no friction modifier because royal purple says its it there.
But after doing some research Im going to go get some friction modifier and see if it works . So my question is how much of a pain is it to replace the clutch packs? What if I wanted to just put a different differential in and do away with limited slip ? Or go with a different aftermarket limited slip diff. ? what are my options , etc.
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I have a 98 f150 with 4.6l an 4r70w trans. I am on my second flex plate when I pulled the trans this time the tc was stuck to flex plate an the center of flex plate was busted around the bolts it has the remo engine in it but the studs on the tc were stuck in the flexplate I got them apart but it looked as if holes were off center on studs orded new tc an flex plate again. There is 1 bolt missing in top of housing an one was to long an didn't tighten up could that cause it to do it...
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2000 Ford F250 crew cab 4 x 4 with 7.3. 6 speed transmission. I just had a new clutch installed and now I am have a grinding noise when putting it into 1st gear and when I change from granny to first it will grind also. I did not have this issue before having the clutch replaced. I have also just had a new hydraulic clutch kit installed.......
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I have rebuilt my transmission but it keeps burning up reverse high clutch plates. It has burned up two sets so far. I am thinking that it might be something stuck in the valve body.
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Have a noise coming from the serpentine area. Sometimes it's a bit of a chirping, other times it's almost like a solid grind.
I pulled the belt off and the idler pulley had a bit of play so I replaced that. The tensioner pulley felt fine. I'm suspecting the fan clutch, as the noise only appears after the clutch has disengaged the fan (although it could be this is just masking the other noise because I've got a heavy duty / loud fan clutch setup).
How can I be sure that the fan clutch is the culprit before replacing it?
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I have a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L truck. I noticed the AC went out about a month ago and since then I could hear the AC/Clutch bearing making noise. Well I went to start it the other day after eating dinner out and it wouldn't start. It sounds like it wants to start but it just doesn't have enough umph. I replaced the starter and charged the battery up to 100 percent. It still won't start.
If I take the belt off it will start and I checked the AC/Clutch and I can move it with my bear hands. I tried disconnecting the AC/Clutch fuse and relay but that didn't work. Is it possible that the Clutch is freezing up when I try to start it?
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I own a 1998 Buick Regal with 213,000 miles on it. Recently I've noticed the rear strut plates in the inner wheel wells are very rusted and each has a crack along the wheel well. I've taken the vehicle to three auto body shops and none of them have been willing to provide a written estimate for repair. Is this a problem that isn't worth the trouble to fix? I still value the car and the 3.8 v6 still runs great ... but maybe it's time to retire it.
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2003 F150 SuperCrew 9.75". Today we got to tearing into my rear end on my truck. I was having a clicking noise from the rear end when slowing down from about 20mph. It was a constant click, click, click, click. It was driving me nuts. Well when I first tore the cover off to change the wheel bearings I found some metal pieces in the bottom of the rear end housing.
I did some researching and came to the conclusion it was the shims behind the side gears or the clutch packs. Well it turned out to be the clutch packs were totally shot!! The side gears and the spider gears were loose and kinda just flopping around!! I ended up changing the side gears and spiders gears, bought them as a kit through ford and then the clutch packs.
The job overall wasn't to hard at all. The hardest part was getting the spider gears spun into the carrier. Ford has a "special tool" that that compresses the clutches and another to hold the carrier through the splines in the gears so you can spin the carrier itself to spin the spider gears in. We ended up using the axel shaft itself and clamping it into a vise and setting the carrier on it to hold it from being able to spin.
We then took a piece of all thread and put it through the side gears and put washers on each of the side gears and nuts in-between them and then spinning the nuts up and down to compress the clutches. Basically what Fords "special tool" does. Then just spun the carrier with the pin that goes through the two spider gears and that was about it. Once we got that done it was all basically putting it all back together.
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I have a 1998 F-250 LD 4x4 with 462,000 km. I have been hearing for some time quite a drone coming from the rear axle. I am guessing the wheel bearings are due, as both front ones have been replaced, but never the rear. More about the noise, I hear it come to life as I gain speed. The faster, the louder. If I decelerate the noise is still present, but volume significantly decreases. Should I change the oil and friction modifier and see if there's an improvement or go ahead and change both bearings too?
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I have a 2001 ford truck and it makes a growling sound when i am turning right but is not when going straight ahead wondering what part in the rear end could be making this sound.
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So I had the same , "noise" in the rear of my truck that i see other people having, at first I thought it was my tires, since I ran buckshots, so I switched over to street tires, and low and behold it sounded like I had buckshots still on the truck. So this thursday I pulled the diff cover off, and guess what i found!
The abs ring on the ring gear, was completely off , and the bolt that holds the pin for the spider gears was broken with just about maybe 3/8 to 5/16 of an inch left in the pin, right now i am still working on how to get that out of there.
also found a 1999 ford f150 2wd truck, 4.6 auto , that someone pulled a 1997 4.6 engine out of and put it in this truck and now it won't charge, and i think it's cause of the pcm needing to be reflashed. tested the alt, battery, everything is good, i just don't know if the pcm controls the charging system.
Pics will come soon of the differential destruction.
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I just came back from a long trip and during the 400 miles drive I started to hear noise coming from my differential - kind of like a constant high gear loud noise. I will hear this noise when I start to accelerate and it will only gets louder and louder as I go faster and faster. I had a pinion seal leaked fixed last week and I checked the fluid and it is full.
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2001 F150--V8-4.6-3.55--8.8. 221000 Miles. Changed front rotors and pads. Had scrubbing noise from right rear when applying breaks heavily. Changed rear rotors and pads. Still have scrubbing noise when breaking hard. I do not hear any noise when driving regular or when normal breaking. Differential fluid was a tad low. Applied fluid. Still have scrubbing noise. No leaks at hub seal or pinion. Bearings ? Maybe?
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The engine of our 2003 Camry (4 cylinder, automatic) is making a loud rumbling noise when stationary, both in drive and in park. The rumbling can be heard and felt, especially via the brake pad, and it persists when the car is driving at below highway speeds.
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Recently I have noticed a noise coming from the car. It is a cluck sort of noise, and it is definitely coming from the front end. I have tested turning and braking and the noise does not seem to be related to that. It seems to only happen when there is a quick transition in the road.
Think of the seam between a bridge and pavement where the bridge is an inch or more higher than the pavement. During normal dips and bumps it seems fine. I put the car up on jacks and removed both wheels. I went over everything to make sure it was snug. I took a rubber mallet and did a soft tap on various parts to see if I could get a rattle or clunk.
I have heard that camber plates can make noise. I am wondering if this could be the case. Many people have reported noise with GC plates, but I have not heard of IE plates doing this.
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My 2003 Honda Element's radio has been messed up for several years. The speakers are fine but the radio must be disconnected from the antenna because it is impossible to stay in tune. How difficult is it to lift off the face plates on the dash and try to reconnect the radio. Additionally, the lights on the speedometer appear to be getting ready to burn out.
The light behind the defroster dial has been out for a while and now the light behind the heater dial needs a few good taps for at light to appear. Can my husband and I repair these things or should we take it to the dealer or some kind of car radio and dashboard expert. Will it cost a fortune or will it cause further damage if we try to do it ourselves?
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My AC clutch is not turning on. I do not have any AC gauges but if I unplug the compressor and put a meter on the 2 harness pins, I do not see any voltage when truck is running and AC on. I really don't know much about AC but I am thinking the problem may possibly be the low pressure switch or possibly low on freon. How can I check if I am low on freon without gauges? Where exactly is the low pressure switch located on my truck and if I jump the switch and the clutch kicks on, does that tell me that the problem can only be the low pressure switch or low on freon. I'm just trying to work through a few of the gremlins.
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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My buddy and I just rebuilt a 4.2 V-6 and stuck it into a '97 F-150 RCSB 4x4 which somebody gave him. It had been sitting with a bum motor for about 7 years. While the engine was out, we also installed a new clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, etc. We got the truck running yesterday by pull starting it (battery is not holding a charge).
The clutch does not seem to be engaging, as I had to pull the shifter out of gear so that the truck would not stall. The clutch does not seem to have a lot of pressure, but the slave cylinder is full. Is there a way to bleed these clutch systems? Is there anything else we should look at? I have not dealt with the M5OD before, and neither has he.
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My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
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Just got a 98 f150 yesterday and I noticed last night when I went to shift into reverse, with the clutch all the way to the floor as I tried pulling the shifter back, it sounded like the clutch wasn't engaged at all. Shifting from all the other gears works just fine. Ive found that If the truck is off and I start it in reverse it works just fine.
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