I bought this truck used and when it's in drive the engine idles rough and seems about to stall when the ac is on at a stop sign or red light.. I've tried it w/o the ac on and it seems a little better but not as smooth. Idle in park is fine.
When I should start looking? Spark-plugs? spark plugs wires, disturber cap, fuel filter etc...
I have a 97 F-150 4wd and when I drive over rough places on the road you can hear a rattling noise. It also causes my truck to thud loudly. But also as I just coast at about 10 mph with the window down you can hear that rattling noise. Almost sounds like a washer sliding on a shaft or something. You can definitely tell something is loose in the front end when i hit rough places. We've jacked it up and tried to move the wheel and the bearings and ball joints seem tight.
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 ford f150 5.4 litre truck and the truck runs real rough kinda surging in park and in drive and reverse i have a couple oxygen sensor codes P 0171, P0174, P0136, P1131, P1151 and an idle air control valve code P1506...
View 5 RepliesI just acquired a 2003 with 5.4 L. Did all new plugs and coils, cleaned MAF sensor, changed air filter, oil, transfluid and filter (obviously not related).
Upon start up and idle the truck has is rough, enough that it will vibrate the whole truck SLIGHTLY. Once in gear and warm, it smooths out and is fine. Unit the next stop and start.
I got a 97 f150 4.2l from my neighbor. he takes good care of his vehicles. he sold it to me cuz it started to idle very rough like a misfire. it is hard to start when cold spits sputters and pops. once started idles like it wants to stall, then will idle normally then back to rough. back and forth like that. runs like a champ when going down the road . check engine light was on took it to auto store they checked codes . said bad o2 sensors so i changed them. still same issue. neighbor changed coil packs checked spark plugs and wire. every thing fires good. i changed iac. still didn't fix problem. could this be a bad egr valve or sensor? if so how can i diagnose this? he also thought was a clogged cat and bored it out. tight budget can't afford to take it to a mechanic. Was told spray carb cleaner spray around engine to check for leaks that did nothing at all...
View 14 Replies2000 Ford F150 1/2 ton 2x 5.4L... Last year, I started having a problem where when the temp dropped below 50 degrees outside, my F150 would idle really rough and sometimes stall out. The CEL came on and reported some codes that I don't remember but pointed to bad air/fuel mix. I consulted a friend and he suggested changing out the IAC. I did that just towards the end of the cold weather spell we were having and the engine ran great so I assumed it was fixed.
Well, the temps have been below 50 for 8 days now and ever since the temps dropped the problem has come back. I took it to AutoZone to have the codes read and they gave me the following:
P1151 - Lack of O2 switches -bank 2 sensor 1 : ECM could not adjust fuel trim because of a lean or rich condition
AND
P0171 - Fuel trim bank one condition : The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the Air/Fuel ratio of the engine. The computer recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Both printouts that they gave me mentioned the following:
Poor fuel pressure
Bad or Malfunctioning MAF sensor - Dirty/defective
Oxygen sensor defective
Fuel injector problem - Leaking or fuel pressure high/low
Vacuum leak on engine
I again called my mechanic friend and he suggested cleaning the MAF and if that didn't work replacing the MAF. I cleaned it and the problem was better but still not fixed.
I have a 2000 F-150 5.4 L. I was driving from home and seconds after the engine went into a rough idle that wouldn't let me accelerate. I scanned it and gave me multiple transmission trouble codes, about 15. I checked the wiring, the transmission fluid and it all looked good. So, what could be the problem?
View 3 RepliesBought the truck knowing it needed a little work because it sounded like a diesel when running. So I had the timing chain, tensioners, water pump, etc. replaced and that fixed that problem. Then, a couple days later, a spark plug blew out of the engine. So, I go to do a full tune-up to find out that 3 of the 8 cylinders already had heli-coils in them.
I pulled those three and bored out and re-tapped the cylinders using the Cal-Van inserts. This has worked beautifully so far. I also replaced all of the other plugs as well with double platinum plugs. I also replaced all COPs. This got the truck running again and it drives great. No loss of power whatsoever. It just runs like a dog at idle. As soon as I give it throttle it smooths out completely.
It seems like the problem gets worse as the engine starts to get up to normal operating temp. Basically, if I am idling, in gear or in park, the truck shakes pretty bad. It kind of feels like it's starved for fuel or barely missing. I do not have any codes though and if it is a miss, it is completely gone under throttle.
Other things I have replaced within the past couple of weeks:
EGR
EGR vacuum solenoid
DPFE
Both PCV elbows
PCV valve
Air filter
Harmonic balancer
Other things I have done:
Cleaned IAC
Cleaned throttle body butterfly (including EGR ports)
Checked TPS voltage
I'm sure there are other things that I am forgetting.
The idle seems low to me but I'm not sure what is considered standard for the 5.4l. Mine idles around 600 in park once engine is warm and the needle doesn't move despite the roughness felt. Just going by the tach, you would think that the idle was smooth as silk.
Truck info:
2000 Ford F-150 XLT
5.4L V8 2V
150k miles
I recently picked up a 2wd 2002 F-150 with a 4.2l V6 that has just over 300k miles. The CEL is on and I'm getting P1131, P1151, P0316, P0305 and an occasional P0301. It has a very distinct misfire from around 1,000 rpm and smooths out between 1,500 & 2,000 rpm, the idle rpm occasionally bounces (sometimes enough to stall), and the idle is sometimes rough.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, fuelfilter, and replaced a leaking PCV hose. As I have changed things the symptoms have improved some but they are still there. While capturing some livedata it kept going out of CL and into OL Fault. When it would the idle quality was crap and the miss was much more significant. I would have to put it into D hold the brake and run the RPM's up to just over 1k to get it back into CL.
After I got done with the data stream at idle, I set the parking brake held the foot brake and put the truck in D then ran the rpm's up to around 1,200 & held it there. The truck stayed in CL but it would cycle between misfiring for 5 - 10 seconds then clear up and run smooth for 20 ' 30 seconds, every time it cycled there was an audible click that could be heard. Also, the AC was off the whole time.
Live DataStream @ Idle: CL
CalculatedLoad Value - 12.9- 14.1%
EngineCoolant Temp - 103degrees C
Short TermFuel Trim B1 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B1 - 0.0%
Short TermFuel Trim B2 - 32.8%
Long TermFuel Trim B2 - 0.0%
Engine RPM - 816 . 846
[Code] .....
I bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
My daughter has a 2010 F150 with 5.4, when pulling her horse trailer or extended idling her truck starts running rough, so far her husband has changed the fuel pump and 2 coil packs, no luck.
View 3 RepliesI recently inherited a 99 Expedition 5.4 with 90k miles. I'm trying to fix it up so I can sell it. Like the title states, the truck runs rough but there's no check engine light on. I did some research and ended up replacing the PCV elbow and that made it run better for a while but now it's back like it was. It won't die, just a really rough idle and a miss while driving. I imagine it's probably a (or a few) coil pack(s), but I have no way of knowing which one(s) to replace. I would think that would illuminate a CEL though. I'm also having problems with the AC. Upon inspection, I found that the compressor clutch assembly was completely gone from the front of the compressor. I replaced the whole clutch assembly, then voided the system of Freon and refilled it to spec, still no cold air. The compressor clicks on and off like it's low on Freon but it can't be. I'd just sell it as is but in south Louisiana a working AC is a huge selling point!
View 1 RepliesI am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
I have a rough idle. I have replaced upstream o2 sensors, plugs, wires, fuel filter, dpfe sensor, cam sensor, and cam synchronizer. This has only moderately improved my problem. I still have the right bank, left bank too lean codes. Could it be something as simple but hard to find as a vacuum leak?
View 8 Replies1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
View 7 RepliesWhat that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
View 13 Replies I have a 1998 Ford F150 4.6L Triton V8 with the FX4 package. As of recent I have noticed my truck tends to idle roughly every so often that I start it up and after longer trips but will run fine once I get going. I take care of my truck like its my baby. I've done everything to it that I can without getting into the engine such as replacing spark plugs, wires, KN air filter, new ignition coil packs, change oil every 5000 with best products, etc the basic tune up stuff every one should do. This truck only has 118,xxx miles on it as it sat in a barn for around 4 or 5 years due to the previous owner being in the military.
I have been trying to search for the cause of this problem but cannot exactly seem to pinpoint it myself. One unusual thing I've noticed also is that when I run the air either hot or cold when my RPM's get high, when I go up hills or punch it, the air switches from vent to dashboard(defrost). I talked to someone who said this was most likely a vacuum leak. Maybe there is a correlation between the two? I'm not exactly sure. I read online my idling problems may be from a cracked PCV elbow? I cleaned out the EGR valve also about two months ago to see if that work. I am willing to try anything myself as long as it doesn't involve tearing the motor apart!
Have a 2001 F150 FX4x4 and since the weather changed and started having days below 40 the truck has started running rough for about the first 15-20 miles. When you first start it starts like normal for first 3-5 min and then it starts loping real bad like it has a cam in it!
View 5 RepliesI am new to FTE and have a question about my 99 4.2l. After it warms up, i can shut it off and about 30 mins later try to start it again and it will idle very rough and sometimes stall. I also noticed that it surges sometimes with just off idle throttle when its cold. I am not getting any codes thrown, here's what I've done so far: cleaned the maf and throttle body, and it didnt work at all. I did convert my cht over to ect by using the plugged coolant outlet on the lower right side of the intake manifold and extending the connector wires which actually solved the problem a little bit but it still does it from time to time.
More info about the cht to ect conversion, but after reading that ford did away with them in later models i wanted to do the same while at the same time making it so much easier to swap it out if ever needed. No more getting under the truck. And where im at cht's are kind of hard to come by without having to order them Anyway, it worked flawlessly! I only had to extend the wires by about 8", wrapped them and ran it along side the injectors for a clean factory look. Ill try to post pics soon...
'1999 F150, 5.4L, 85K miles ....
Fuel pump failed last year, had it replaced. Ran fine for a week or 2, then one day went into limp-home mode. Mech replace fuel pump relay, again ran fine for a month or so. Now when the ambient temp gets above 80F or so (yeah, it has already this year - I'm in Central TX), engine at full op temp, I'm experiencing some sort of heat-soak issue. Engine runs fine when cold, and at normal op temps on the road, but if it is parked for 15 - 20 minutes then restarted, the idle goes all funky - nearly dies, surges, etc. for a minute or 2, and then it seems ok.
I would go back to the same mech, but he had to close his shop due to health issues, so I'd like to see if I can resolve this. So, it is definitely heat-triggered, and "seems" like a fuel issue, but of course it could be some electrical contact having difficulty above a certain temp.