Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Right Side Mirror Kind Of Sticks When Try To Adjust It
Aug 18, 2016
The right side mirror on my 97 f150 kind of sticks a little when I adjust it. Are there some gears or something that I could use a dry lubricant on, before I replace it?
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I have a 2000 Jetta GLX VR6, automatic, that I have been going over for my son. The passenger side mirror doesn't adjust when I shift into reverse. I moved up,(towards the top of the housing) a little. Shifted to park and then back to reverse and it moved up again and doesn't return. I have changed the mirror switch, the mirror motors, and have dis-connected all the electrical plugs on the transmission. I figured the plugs needed to be plugged and re-plugged to clean the terminals, but no luck. Is there a switch or sensor that needs to be replaced on the transmission? All the fuses are good. What needs to be done?
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It all started......when I got onto the highway and glanced down at the gauge cluster and noticed my battery light was on and kind of flashy (clipping, so to speak)...and that I was in 2nd gear...whoops. (My tach's busted, else I probably would have noticed that sooner.)
Quick correction and things are right as rain. The next day I go out and make 3-4 stops with less than 10 minutes of drive time between each. I'm almost home (battery light's been on intermittently since last night) and the idle slows slightly and the windows no longer work. I make it home and the gauge cluster is dead by now, but leave the truck running, grab a socket wrench and pry off the positive battery lead. Truck dies.
I'm thinking alternator, so I pull the battery and charge it inside, then pull the alternator the next day and have it tested. Tests fine (putting out 1430 (is that mA?) per O'Reilley's). Crap. Cleaned all connections (including taking off the negative terminal grounded to the starter and shining it up a little, then pulling the connections off the firewall and sanding them lightly), checked 20A inline blade fuse, both 175A fusible links, but it's still not charging. If I want to go anywhere, I have to pull the battery and charge it inside.
I was thinking it might be the voltage regulator, but I just called O'Reilley's and they told me that the test on the alternator included the regulator. I just confirmed that the belt on the pulley is okay. What did I most likely fry that caused my battery light to come on? (97 4.6L)....
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I picked up a nicely used 98 XL in Alabama yesterday, with 106k original miles. The dealer threw in FREE oil changes for life with my purchase, but I don't see me driving 2.5 hours to Alabama for that.
It's got crank up windows, manual locks, standard tranny, 4.2 V6, and the regular seats. Yep, pretty basic. It came with a matching fiberglass shell also. The only things wrong are the radio volume doesn't adjust, and the rear window frame appears cracked. These are minor in my opinion.
What drew me to this truck was the beautiful condition it's in and my love of this body style. What would be added to improve creature comforts, performance, etc.
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I recently replaced the powered side-view mirror on my 2001 Ford Ranger. It adjusts in all directions, but it stops ("bumps") before it adjusts inward as far as we need it to go. Is there any way to adjust the neutral position of the mirror?
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I have small red lenses to the outside of my mirrors I thought they were turn signal indicators but they do not light up Are they suppose to be indicators ? And if so , How do I get to the bulbs
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How to remove power mirror switch 1998 f150, and where to buy if can't be cleaned up to work?
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How to replace the turn signal bulb that is in the mirror on a 2001 f150 supercrew? My Haynes and Chiltons books dont say a thing about replacing this bulb.
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2003 6.0 has had hpop replaced with adrenaline hpop, updated hpop cover, new oem oil cooler and gaskets, holder premium 175/30 injectors, new lpop and front cover, new cam and crank sensors, all new pigtails, rebuilt turbo with 360 bearing and kc billet wheel, egr delete, coolant filter. New ICP and IPR, oem filters and cap. All work done by reputable shop. Truck will run fine and then just die like you turned off the ignition. Everytime IPR is stuck open. Replace IPR and truck will run fine for a short period and then problem will reoccur.
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I've done a lot of front end replacement on my 99 this year and have it better than its been in a long time. The truck still seems to wander a bit, but that's going to be hard to nail down and it's not that bad really. But something that concerns me is it always feels more unstable over bumps- and I've noticed that going over a small hill at speed when the truck feels light, that the wheel pulls a little to the right, and then when the weight shifts back down the steering wheel turns to the left. If I hold the wheel lightly with my fingertips, the wheel will rock from side to side and back to normal. However in traffic when you have a firm grip and don't let the wheel move on its own then the truck shifts more on the road. Quick bumps don't have as much affect as small hills do.
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I have a 02 Screw 5.4 triton. When in 2 wheel drive its fine under acceleration but when I put it in 4by it judders under acceleration from side to side. Like when you have strong side wind. It doesn't pull to any side when it does this and doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. Also it is on the fly 4by but I always park and change it in 'P', I had to drop it back into 2by on the fly and it didn't disconnect till I stopped and repeated the process.
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2003 Jetta, 1.8T, 5spd, stock, 129k miles. I am working on a friends car and his complaint is the clutch pedal occasionally sticks to the floor and during this sequence it is hard to shift gears. I removed knee bolsters to inspect under the dash and found all linkage straight, all plastic parts/springs in place and no fluid leaks, I removed slave cylinder from bell housing and found smooth operation and no leaks. I guess I could replace both but I am wondering if there is a common issue. My searches have found broken plastic parts, bent push rods and leaking cylinders.
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I just got a set of OEM headlights put in my car. The first time i drove it at night, i noticed that the driver's side headlight dropped short of the coverage that the passenger side headlight did (distance wise). How can i adjust this?
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 4x4 extended cab the passenger side head light is very dim try and turn on high beams and it does not react while on low beam the high beam indicator in the cab is on. Where can I look or what is the common problem for this.
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Its only on the right side. When i push down on the right side, its really loud but when i push on the left side it doesn't squeak. It sounds its really loud. When i turn the wheel it sounds like an old door in a scary movie being closed. Is it my ball joints?
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Having an issue with my 97 f150 its a 4x4 with 4.6L engine the issue is my driver side window keeps going down by itself. I changed the switch and relay for the power windows and still doing same thing?
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I have a 97 expedition It started a month ago crossing the border, I stopped at customs booth drivers side window would not go down. During the next couple of days the drivers side window would go down by itself, and I would have to bring the window back up. I have done alot of research on line everyone was telling me it was the GEM Module.
The window switch is good and the window regulator is good. Brought to my neighborhood mechanic, he said he was 90% sure that it was the GEM Module, he even said that he was tapping on the GEM Module and the window would go down on it's own. I decided to order a GEM Module online to fit my vehicle, received it on Saturday, installed it. [found no moisture around module] Same Problem, window would not go down. Now I have the drivers side motor unplugged from the switch.
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I just had my turbo and the EBPV on the pedestal rebuilt. Now I need to put it back into the truck. What is the procedure, if any, to adjust the EBPV? I only use the truck to haul a 5th wheel RV and the performance chip closes the EBP valve when going down steep hills -( EXHAUST BRAKE)
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Heater control will not adjust, the one in the middle. I can turn it up and down, but it doesn't affect how much heat the heater is putting out. The other two work correctly. Do I have a bad switch or is the blender valve sticking? How can I tell? '99 F350, 1.25M miles.
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This is a 2004 RX330. Unable to adjust temperature on driver side.
Symptoms - may appear to be defective heat or defective A/C on driver side only (depending on the position of the mix damper).
Solution -- replace mixer damper assembly servo (this controls the mix of hot and cold air on the driver side). This is a dual climate control, so each side has dedicated dampers.
So, if unable to change "where" the air coming out, the damper with the red arrow would require replacement.
If unable to control the temperature, the damper with the blue arrow would require replacement.
I will post pictures, after I repair my own. I'll be replacing the damper with the blue arrow.
This photo was taken with my feet on the drivers head-rest and my head pressing the accelerator.
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1998 f150 4x4 the drivers window is stuck up. It clicks by the up button but not the down button. The pass window works fine by both buttons, the door locks work fine. Took out the switch it tests with a ohm meter fine. The switch has power to it. I took out the window motor jumpered it to the battery and it works in both directions. Manually ran the window up and down and it moves freely. I swapped the relays under the dash and everything operates the same. I'm not sure where to go next for trouble shooting this problem.
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