Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Reverse Lights Stay On After Trailer Relays Installed?
Sep 7, 2013
I've been getting ready to take a camping trip with the, new to me, Superduty and going to rent a trailer. When I bought the truck it had no brake controller and the aux relay box was pretty dusty so don't think it's towed in a while. I got my self a controller and the jumper harness to go form the factory connector to the controller, then went to local parts supply and got two standard auto relays and a 30 amp maxi fuse. I noticed after installing the system the reverse lights stay on after putting the truck in reverse, they don't even go out with the key off.
Did some further testing and found pulling fuse 28 (central Elec) the circuit stay powered up, but only after shifting to reverse the first time. Can only turn off lights so far by pulling the trailer relay at the back of the aux. relay box where the two "towing" relays go, I fairly certain it's the "Trailer back up lamps relay". The power mirrors stay powered up too so the relay control circuit is staying powered but only after the relay is energized. What the issue maybe or where to look for a short? I guess there is the a less obvious possibility too - did ford use some funky special wiring for the relays meaning my standard automotive relays from the parts store are incorrect?
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I've got a 2001 f150 supercrew 4x4 with the 4.6. I plugged in trailer lights and now I have no brake, turn signal, or hazard lights. I've checked fuses and none are blown.
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1999 5.4 auto
I have no trailer lights. I have checked all of the fuses. I cecked for voltage and am reading 0v what am I missing?
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Just recently now the dash warning lights stay on or come back on shortly there after when the key is removed. I replaced the ignition switch. I can even leave the wiring to it disconnected with the same result. When the positive battery cable is removed and reconnected I can hear relay or relays clicking.
I pulled all one at a time next to the master cylinder in the two boxes. same result. I pulled all relays in the fuse box in the cab one at a time. no change.
Maybe related about a month ago the hvac fan stayed on. we had to turn that to the off position to remedy that. than it "fixed" itself. Starting points to check on this 4.6 with 361k on the clock 99% original....
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Yesterday I changed two burned out light-bulbs in the a/c control panel. When I tested them after dark they worked as designed. An hour or so later my brother-in-law called me to tell me my interior lights were on. When I walked out to check the lights were off. This morning my wife drove the truck to the store and called me to tell me the interior lights were staying on. Didn't have this problem before replacing those burned out bulbs.
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About a month ago I discovered one of my reverse lights was out on my 97 f150. So first thing I did was replace the bulbs then they both went out. So with my test light I checked the fuse and all sockets. All good there. Then I suspected the switch. So I bought a new switch. Nothing. Then checked the connector with the test light. Thought I found my problem there. So I bought a new connector and when I connect the wires, they only flick on once. Not even for a full second. I hear a click and I'm told the lights flick on once and that's it.
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I have an automatic 5.4L (L code) 2000 Ford F-150 and I am having problems with the reverse lights not working when I place the transmission in reverse. Fuse #5 in the passenger compartment fuse panel is good and both reverse lamps are good as well. I have also metered the LB/PK input wire at DTR sensor and it is reading 12 volts when the ignition is in the on position. I have also the metered the BK/PK wire output wire at the DTR and this wire also reads 12 volts when I place the transmission in reverse. I have checked continuity from the BK/PK wire at DTR to the BK/PK wire at the reverse lamp socket and I do not have continuity. I then ran a fused jumper wire from the BK/PK wire directly to the BK/PK wire at the reverse lamp socket and the lamps will light up when I place the transmission in reverse and will also turn off when the transmission is placed back in park. So it seems that the DTR is not defective. I'm not sure what else to check. Obviously the BK/PK circuit is open at some point between the DTR and the reverse lamp socket, but I'm wondering if there is something else that I need to check. The vehicle is also equipped with a factory trailer tow package
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I have a 2002 F-150 xlt 4x4 5.4l V8, 96k miles. been sitting about 3 weeks i went to start it and nothing.. thought ok jump. We tried jumping/charging the battery nothing. then we switched batteries from running car same thing when i turn key just hear a click in dash. battery light remained on even when we swapped out. The theft light was off as well.
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New to this site, my problem is on my 2003 4.6L fuel pump not working.My problem is that I am not getting voltage to contacts on pcm and fuel pump relays.
Getting volts to #30 fuse 30amps ok, voltage to pcm diode ok. Voltage on #30 on both relays(pcm & fuel) but I am loosing voltage across coils contacts #85 & #86, these makes hot #30 & #87 to make pump work. Inertia sw ok, Don't know if PCM is bad, ck fuse #2 ok 5 amps.
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Have a problem with starting. Truck had an alarm system that I took off. Reconnected the wires back to factory. Installed a new battery-starter cable. Checked and had no radio and no power windows. Found two relays missing and one fuse under the hood missing. Installed new. Tried again and have all accessories but will do nothing when turning key to start. With key on I can jump across solenoid by starter and it will start. Once started it will not allow me to shift out of park. If I shut truck off and turn key to on position I can shift out of park and into neutral and jump across solenoid and it runs. Once I shift back into park it kills the truck and we start all over again. I've traced wires and fuses and can't find anything. 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 5.4l....
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I am having a problem with trailer lights and an 03 350. When the truck is in reverse the fuse for travel trailer running lights and tail lights blows immediately. Changing plugs on the truck did not work. Truck has been hooked up to 4 other trailers including another travel trailer with no problems. Our travel trailer has been hooked up to an 08 and a 2011 truck with no problems. Fuse 38 20 amp. 7 post rv plug.
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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i have a 1997 f150 2wd and it has a 4.6 litre v8, it runs good but it seems to have no power when pulling a trailer anymore, it has 321,465 miles on it, original motor and transmission, it uses about a half a quart of oil every 2500 to 2800 miles between oil changes, the trailer i pull is just a small car trailer i have always pulled it with the truck, what could be causing it to lose power?
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I bought my truck a couple months back for my custom furniture business. It's a '98 F-150, XLT, 5.4, supercab, 4x4, 3.73, 4R70W, 176k miles, with tow package. Today I picked up a single axle 6x12 trailer enclosed with metal mesh, weighs about 2000 lb. This was my first time towing with this truck and I figured it would run a little slow but this was ridiculous.
Highest speed I could get to was 64 going slightly downhill with OD locked off. Most of the smaller inclines and flat areas were max 55, then the worst was a two mile 7% incline at 35 mph. That last one just wouldn't downshift. This was all between 5000 and 6000 elevation in the Rockies. It's a little embarrassing getting passed by loaded semis
Am I doing anything wrong? Could it just be this specific trailer has issues?
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1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
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I installed a new trailer wiring harness onto the back of my 2002 F250 Super Duty with 7.3 diesel engine. Unfortunately, I was 180 degrees off on my wiring. When I hooked up to the camper I blew Fuse #115 (Trailer Tow Battery Charge) as it connected directly to the camper ground wire. I replaced the 20amp fuse and all other fuses were good. Currently, I have all the truck wires to the harness isolated and have power to all of them except for the parking lights. All the lights on the truck work fine.
My truck has a interior fuse panel on the driver's side as well as two small black boxes under the hood, near the brake booster. The under-hood boxes had only relays in them. Two relays in one black box, three in the other. The box with three relays had trailer left turn and right turn relays. which worked fine. The third in that box, apparently, is for the A/C clutch, controlled by fuse #10. The other black box (with two relays), apparently, are for 4WD Shift on the fly, controlled by fuse #111. So, no relay for the parking lights.
Next, I pulled the fuse panel out a little and checked continuity from the end of the parking light wire (brown with white stripe) at the back of the truck to the back of the fuse box and found that it was a good wire with no breaks or shorts to ground, however no voltage is showing at the parking light wire when I turn on the parking lights. The harness at the back of the fuse box has several wires going into it. The parking light wire (brown with white stripe) is in the same harness as the back-up light wire (black with green stripe) and the back-up light does have voltage, when I put it in reverse.
I'm not sure what happens inside of the fuse box, i.e., how does one fuse run a few wires... is there some kind of circuit board? I know the easy way would be to run a vampire connector from the truck parking lights, or maybe the license plate light to power the trailer lights, however, I'm just not built that way.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
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I have a 2000 Regular Cab Work Truck with non power split bench seat. The passenger side back will not hook in the up position.
Before diving into it. Is the mechanism broken or is it something I can fix if I tear it apart? There is nothing stuck under or behind that I can tell.
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Have a 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. when i turn the key and pull it out the accessories stay on. What could be wrong and what can i do to fix so I don't have to keep disconnecting the battery?
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