...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
View 6 RepliesI decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
I tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
I need to replace rear spring packs on our
97 Explorer sport 4.0 auto 4x4.
What years should I look for? Will 91-01 packs work?
I know of a 92 4x4 close by that is being parted out.
My wife's 2000 SCAB 4x4 has been rattling for a while now. I have been able to figure out that the culprit(s) are the metal bands on the leaf springs, which are somewhat loose and causing the rattle. I have squeezed them with a large c-clamp on a couple of occasions, which seems to have provided a temporary fix, but as soon as the suspension cycles fully they stretch out again, and begin making noise. How to tighten them permanently? Or is there a replacement/upgrade to fix it?
View 2 RepliesI bought some new leaf springs for my 2000 F150XL and noticed one is different only slightly, it being in the arch one is 7 15/16 which is correct, but the other is 8 1/8. how much variable do they allow, will it make that big of a difference or will i be able to notice it after there on. I am happy with them but don't want to put them on and then the truck set uneven??? the reason for replacing the ones still on the truck is they are twisted and apparently broke they are 2/1 springs and having the new ones i can tell the #2 spring on the truck now are shorter like the ends are broke off and the clips moved around allowing for them to twist, so i really needed new ones.should i put the taller arch on a particular side or should i just put them on....
View 2 RepliesI have a 97 f150 4x4 with the 4r70w and it shifts a bit slow between first and second. So I've been doing my research and figured id try to put new 1-2 accumulator piston and springs in. What are the part numbers so I don't order the wrong stuff.
View 1 RepliesI am going to replace front coil spings on my 98 town car. Do I really need OTC 7045B tool to remove springs?
View 1 RepliesAn idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 F350 Lariat LE with a stock sun visor (eyebrow) that broke off while I was driving on the highway. I have purchased the replacement. It is a 3 part kit and my biggest question is, how does the mounting bracket attach to the top of the cab. The old one did not come off, just ripped the bolts through the metal.
Here is the link for the parts: 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty - 18637467 Exterior Sun Visor.
I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
View 7 RepliesFriend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
View 14 RepliesI just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
View 8 RepliesSo i replaced my IAC(Idle Air Control) Valve and the idiling is much better! However my shaking/jerking has not stopped. I have found the problem which is the exhaust manifolds! I was wondering if when i replace them which i am probably going to get headers should i use metal gaskets?
View 14 RepliesI have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
View 1 RepliesI planned on replacing the timing chains, tensioners, guides and oil pump when I replace the timing cover tomorrow, however, I overlooked was the specialty tools to lock the cams and crankshaft in position. I came up with a couple methods but wanted to know of some other way to replace the timing chains without the cam/crank tools?
Turning the crankshaft keyway to 12 o'clock instead of TDC : Positioning the crankshaft keyway at 12 o' clock will keep all pistons close to mid cylinder and essentially eliminate the risk of interference.
or
Neutralize the cams : Loosening the bolts on the cam bearing caps while still keeping them in place allows the cams to move without engaging the valves.
At least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
View 3 RepliesI have search youtube and only found front door lock replacement but not the rear..
How do you go about removing the bad rear passenger side door lock actuator ??
Two weeks ago did a road trip to NH from RI and i heard a slight dragging only at low speed (10-15mph) in my left rear tire. figured the caliber was dragging a little, it was. Before arriving in NH the brake light came on. Long story short i get back to RI and the left side noise gets worse and starts to lock up. I finally replace the rotor which was warped, pads, and caliper which was bad.
Was driving it same day and still here the same dragging and screeching noise and the brake light is still on. On my way home the left side locked up at low speed without hitting breaks and slid the truck, mid you all parts are new on that side. I am not sure what it could be at this point something in side the axle?
My rear springs are worn out
apparently ... it's not a pickup ...
seriously though ... they are worn out