Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Replacing Exterior Sun Visor?
Oct 22, 2012
I have an 03 F350 Lariat LE with a stock sun visor (eyebrow) that broke off while I was driving on the highway. I have purchased the replacement. It is a 3 part kit and my biggest question is, how does the mounting bracket attach to the top of the cab. The old one did not come off, just ripped the bolts through the metal.
Here is the link for the parts: 2003 Ford F350 Super Duty - 18637467 Exterior Sun Visor.
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Problem: The exterior temp. gauge is blank.
It used to fade in and out and I discovered if I pushed the button that switches from degrees F. to degrees C. it wold come on for a bit, but no more. It's just blank.
I think I've seen a thread on here about similar issues but I was unable to find it. I'm also not sure how to take the overhead console off yet. The console consists of ext. temp gauge, sun glasses compartment, and compartment for a garage door opener.
Some truck specs:
Year: 2001
Model: F150 Super-crew
Motor: 4.6L
Mileage: 250,000
Color: Silver
Original motor, second transmission.
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An idler pulley on my 2002 F-150 seized and snapped the serpentine belt. The pulley is below and to the left of the belt tensioner. The pulley doesn't have a bolt but a hole that looks like an allen wrench would fit it. I couldn't find an allen wrench to fit it. Called AutoZone and they have a pulley removal tool in three sizes. What size wrench would fit the idler pulley? I want to make sure I get the correct size tool so as not to screw up the pulley when I start pulling on it.
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...So I think the time has come to replace the rear springs in my SuperCrew....They are starting to sag...nothings broken...spring perches look ok. Question is , Are the supercrew springs any different than a reg cab or supercab?
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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Friend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
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I just bought a f150 2001 5.4L crew cab. It has the O/D switch in the gear shift lever and the black plastic handle is broke. I found a complete replacement lever on ebay but cannot find any tutorials on how to replace this.
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So i replaced my IAC(Idle Air Control) Valve and the idiling is much better! However my shaking/jerking has not stopped. I have found the problem which is the exhaust manifolds! I was wondering if when i replace them which i am probably going to get headers should i use metal gaskets?
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I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
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I planned on replacing the timing chains, tensioners, guides and oil pump when I replace the timing cover tomorrow, however, I overlooked was the specialty tools to lock the cams and crankshaft in position. I came up with a couple methods but wanted to know of some other way to replace the timing chains without the cam/crank tools?
Turning the crankshaft keyway to 12 o'clock instead of TDC : Positioning the crankshaft keyway at 12 o' clock will keep all pistons close to mid cylinder and essentially eliminate the risk of interference.
or
Neutralize the cams : Loosening the bolts on the cam bearing caps while still keeping them in place allows the cams to move without engaging the valves.
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At least this is how I did it after a P0133 code.
The back ground on my truck (see sig) is that I am the second owner (my former neighbor was the first) and it has 293K miles on it at the time of this post. The truck is bone stock FWIW.
I searched the internet and couldn't find a good step by step replacement write up. The front oxygen sensor on the passenger side is hard to get to so here is what I did:
Jacked the truck up and placed jack stands under it. Removed the front passenger tire and the plastic wheel well liner.
Tools needed for this part are a 7/32 socket and a trim tool remover (for the plastic push in fittings).
There are 5 screws and 3 or 4 plastic push retainers (don't know actual term) to remove.
Because of the location of the sensor I had to remove the transmission dipstick tube. *If you do this have a pan or bucket under this area as you are going to lose fluid* the dipstick tube is held place by an 8mm bolt about the middle of the exhaust manifold. Unscrew it and with a little pressure the tube will pop up and out, and so will some fluid.
Wheel well liner out and dipstick tube pulled out of the way.
The connector where you will disconnect the old 02 sensor is tucked up behind the engine block and is kind of hard to get to. A little time and patience and you can get it separated.
From underneath the truck I cut the end off of the old 02 sensor (because the closed end of the wrench wouldn't fit over it) and used a 7/8 box wrench to unloosen the sensor a little at a time until I could get it out with my fingers.
I put the new 02 sensor in finger tight and then tightened it down with small turns of the 7/8 wrench until tight
The cord on the new sensor is longer than the factory one so once reconnected I used zip ties to keep the slack up and away from the hot parts.
New 02 sensor installed and dip stick tube back in place. Note the attachment approx 1/2 down the dipstick tube. It is the 8mm bolt I previously mentioned.
Wheel well back in place. Truck lowered back to the ground.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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So when I bought my rig in 2010 it had a Lund visor on it, granted I may not have chosen to put on one but it is on there......
Windshield is busted and I need to have it replaced......the company that came today said they needed the Lund removed and all my gauges removed in order to do the window.......I get the gauge pod (above mirror) that isn't that big a deal, pull it down and pull the wires off the gauges.....
But I am very hesitant to disturb the Lund visor.
Have to confirm the visor indeed needs to come off? I am worried it will never be as well attached and I'm going to end up with body work being done on the roof to fix it.
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I got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
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I cannot figure out how to get the bulbs out of the visor mirror. Replacing these? Banging my head against the steering wheel in frustration.
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Visor won't switch on the vanity light when it's pulled down? Just wondering if it's a simple problem to fix.
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Replacing oil pan. It is a 1997 town car with the V8 4.6.The other mechanic told them that the pan is rotting through and it's not just a weeping gasket.
I have not had the chance to get this car to my shop, so I have not gotten a look at it.I'd just like to know what I will get involved with before I see the owners and the car.
how extensive this will be to get the engine up high enough to pull the old pan out.I'm hoping that I can just unbolt the motor mounts and jack the motor up a bit if need be.
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Puppy chewed them up. Puppy has grown so I know it's time to replace them however they are discontinued. Some grey ones are available but I'd like to stick with OE colors if possible. Any leads, prefer new if possible
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I realize this is probably really easy but I don't have my owner's manual.
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im in the process of replacing the injector cups and i knew this would happen since the whole process went way to easy up until this part. I am using Clays remover kit and it will not remove the cup. I do it according to the book and it just keeps popping out of the cup when i try to remove
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The next thing on my list of things to replace on my truck is the steering box. I have dealt with a lot of play on my steering for quite a while. I recently replaced the the ball joints and that worked but I think the box is just worn out. I have read all the great review on Redhead boxes but I just can't afford it now. What else is out there? Is our oem box a motorcraft or something else?
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