Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Replaced Plugs / Coils Now Truck Won't Start
Jan 21, 2017
Yesterday I decided to tune up my 2003 5.4 for the 1st time at 82k miles. I replaced all 8 coils with MSD coils & motorcraft plugs. After doing so I went to turn over the ignition & got 1 single click, motor wouldn't even turn over. Battery is 3 months. Truck ran just fine prior to tune up other than the slight misfire I was starting to get.
When I was working on the passenger side I did disconnect the big bracket that had the multiple wire harness on the fire wall underneath the starter solenoid to gain access to the rear plug/coil. Where to start troubleshooting? I checked the fuses under the hood & dash but nothing looked blown.
On a side note I remember when I was putting everything away I tried to lock the truck with the Ford factory transmitter & it wouldn't lock?! I had to open the door & press the power lock button to lock the doors.
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I have a 2002 f150 with the 5.4. Its got a rough idle and a bit hesitant on acceleration. Im wanting to replace the coils and plugs but what brand of coils should I use?
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I have a 2007 Honda Fit that seems to misfire when idling both in park and drive. It occurs with the A/C on and off. We have changed the plugs and all coils and it continues. This car has 56,000 miles, the problem started at about 40,000 miles.
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I've tried everything I can think of and it still runs sluggish.
1. Had dealer change plugs
2. Changed Cop's
3. Cleaned MAF sensor
The 5.4L has slight miss and doesn't respond well at all when trying to pass or going uphills.
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I have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
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I replaced the glow plugs and gpr and the truck won't start. I'm also having to replace the water fuel separator. What is going on? 1999 F250 7.3l ....
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My 2004 honda accord will not start, there is no power to the spark plugs or to the coils.
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Well...I had the ECM replaced on my 2002 F150. She ran great for about 60 miles. I had trouble with the key right off at the dealer - it wouldn't start, so I flipped the key over, and it started. Drove about 35 miles, and had starting issues a couple of times, but minor, and over quickly. Came home, and did not drive it for a week. Got in this morning, and it WOULD NOT START. Turned over normal, but won't start. Now I am stuck 15 miles from the dealer who programmed it, and no way to get it there. Anything that I can do to get it started to make the trip?
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I have a 97 F150 with the 4.6L and a 4x4 auto transmission that I got it on a trade. I was told the packs were shorted (he had a diagnostic write up as proof) so I replaced them and still no spark. It has the 4 plug packs. I checked every fuse and relay twice and the PCM and packs are getting power I also checked them with a multimeter and they're getting a 12v feed in the distribution box and the packs have 12v on the hot wire. There's something keeping it from firing the distribution wires and I'm kinda stumped. Also the MIL comes on and sometimes go off and I tried to scan tool it but it says it can't connect.
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I have a 2003 f150 that has a history of misfiring on one side. It started with a misfire on #1, then #4, and finally #2. I replaced all 8 plugs last year and each COP as it gave the misfire code over the course of the last 3 years. My latest run in was with #2, and I replaced the COP today and took it for a test drive. It was running pretty rough at idle, which I assumed was from disconnecting the battery, but then the stuttering started but it felt a little different than the standard misfire that usually didnt pop up until 40-50mph.
This stutter was more constant, and it also let up when I would coast. I only took it for a 4-6mile test drive and toward the end, the "Service Engine Soon" light started blinking and then went off by the time I got home. I parked it and noticed quite a lot of crackling noises that seemed more than normal, but it was a hot day and I was pissed that I didnt fix it so I cant say for certain if it was out of the norm or not, but it seemed louder and more frequent. Then I got to worrying about my cats going bad.
So, my questions are:
Could I have done something wrong when changing the COP?
What can the flashing "Service Engine Soon" light mean? Ive only seen a solid one before.
Should I be worried about the cat going bad since all the issues have been on that one side?
What should I do next?
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This is a truck at work, I had my student workers put in a new blinker switch, and when they were done it won't start anymore. The "theft" light is flashing on the dash, so I guess the PATS system thinks it was tampered with. How could you trigger this by changing the blinker switch? Does this have to be reset by a dealer?
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Replaced plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 2. (cheap made in china coil packs off of autoparts warehouse)
Also, plugs had 30k miles on them with original packs. Got it again.
Replaced coil on cylinder 2. Got it again.
Bought Denso double platinums. Got it again.
Moved coil packs around. Misfire on cylinder 4.
Checked plugs, good dry non corroded. Its always 2 or 4.. not 1 or 3
Slow drive with less than 30% gas pedal action it runs "ok". If I go uphill or need to step on it, not happening. Bucks like a mule.
I dont think its the fuel injector... Ordered the red audi packs off europaparts. Might need to check connections. what do i do?
I've been also reading that it could be the cam follower. I'm willing to check it and then force the dealer to fix it under the extended warranty, but if its broken I cant put it back in. The dealer is 50 miles from me.
It happened a morning I was out of gas and used .... regular! But did put in super right after that. I had spare regular gas in a container (fresh) for the generator.
Then used fuel additives. I have also been using fuel additives every other fill up just to protect injectors. I know it wont do anything other than that because of direct injection.
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1989 Nissan pathfinder. 6cylinder - VG30i - Manual trans
Engine was misfiring (running okay but putt, putt, putting) so I pulled be plugs to check for signs. Other than wear and wide gap the plugs looked okay, but I installed new plugs as they're cheap and I was already pulling them. I replaced them one at a time so didn't mix up the wiring. I went to restart the engine and now it turns over and starts but then immediately dies. If I really slam on the pedal I can get it to rev up a couple times, but it really wants to completely die right away. It'll start but won't run
- I took the battery lead (neg) off for a few days - maybe that reset something?
- I had a very empty gas tank - so low that I thought it might be out of fuel. I put two gallons in just to make sure. Because I can slam on the gas and get it to revving I'm not sure being out of gas is the issue.
- I removed the distributor cap to check for wear but reinstalled (picture attached).
- I sprayed some Mass airflow sensor cleaner into the throttle body to clean up, the throttle body valve blade was pretty clean.
- I'm doing this test without the air filter in. The old one was so dirty I removed it and didn't bother putting it back on. Going to buy a new one today.
- It cannot pass smog due to this misfire (obviously not detonating fuel so it's polluting)
- The engine was start up readily before I started tinkering. It would seem strange that adding new plugs
- I didn't gap the plugs.
Next steps :
- Look for any wires knocked loose or hoses disconnected.
- Pull the error codes (check engine light is on cuz, it's not running)
- Check Vacuum and diagram and hoses.
- Check ignition system wires.
- Check fuel pressure.
- Check Cylinder Compression.
Ultimately I'm trying to tune it up (and fix misfire) anyway, not just change the plugs, so doing more diagnosis is okay. It's also not my primary car. I haven't worked on cars in a while so I'm a little rusty and also needing to get necessary tools to complete the tasks. But it's fun I hope I can get this car running well again soon.
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I have a 2000 f150 with 198,000 miles. The lite on the dash came on, "service engine soon" , I had the codes read and they said the coils are going bad.
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When I want to start the truck dix nothing and I don't know why? I have to tell you that I have changed my tranny ...
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2002 Model, F150, 4.6L Triton....
Early last week one day my truck just wouldn't start. I had driven it the day before. but that day nothing. It would spin over just not start. the following day though, it started as always, no hesitation and run smooth. But the was the last day it has ran.
Since then I have checked the relays and fuses. I have checked the inertia switch (pass. side kick panel). Removed the cap on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. (no pressure)
I have sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body and it starts for 1 to 2 seconds. (dies once starting fluid is gone). I have changed the fuel filter and pulled the bed and changed out the fuel pump. I'm thinking about trying the fuel pressure regulator next.
Just not real sure where else to go if that doesn't work.....
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First of it's a 2003 with the 4.6. I replaced a bad alternator a couple months ago and all was fine. On the way home today the radio volume went quiet and all the dash gauges were dead. Truck died and wouldn't even try to start, no starter clicking or anything. A couple times the gauges did the "sweep" but still no start, not even a starter click. Barely even operated the hazard lights. Towed it home and hooked up the jumper cables to my 7.3 Excursion. Truck started right up and I left if hooked up for a couple minutes hoping to get enough charge in the battery to get it in the garage.
Unhooked the jumper cables, got in the truck and noticed the voltage gauge was reading nothing, tried to move it and it died. Hooked the jumper cables back up and let the Excursion charge it for about 5 minutes. Started, drove it to the garage (100ft) and backed it in. Noticed the voltage gauge was where it should be. Turned it off and back to run (didn't start) and the voltage gauge was reading good and it started right up.
Now, it doesn't appear that the battery or alternator is bad. Is there something else I should be looking at? I can take the alternator off and have it checked but don't want to go through the work if not needed to chase a ghost. Advance auto Tough One alternator BTW.
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Just replaced the spark plugs and coils yesterday, today it gives P0113 code, Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor - high input Wiring open circuit/short to positive, ground wire defective, IAT sensor, ECM...
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So I just bought a 2001 F-150. It has the 4.6 v8 it's a 4x4 automatic. Sometimes i'll go to start it in park but nothing will happen. But if I put it in neutral. It'll start right up.
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I have a 2001 ford F150 with a 5.4 2WD, with a starting problem. Last Friday I went to leave work the truck cranked but did not start, turned the key off and tried again same thing, on the third try it started. Drove it home 30 miles with one stop on the way, restarted just fine. At home in the driveway I restarted it 5 times without a problem so I was thinking it was just a glitch. Did not drive the truck all weekend thinking the problem was fixed.
Monday morning leave for work and everything was fine, went to start the truck in the afternoon and the same problem as listed above (3 or 4 tries and it started). It home again in the driveway restarts every time. I do not have any check engine light on but I thought I would still plug in my code reader NO CODE. Where to start troubling shooting this problem?
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I have a 1997 f150 that as soon as I hook up the battery, the truck tries to start itself, what would cause this?
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