Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Remote Unlock Quit Working
Dec 10, 2013
I had the battery unhooked for an extended period of time while replacing the starter. My father owns a 1997 F250 heavy duty. Well he was parked beside me when I was putting everything back together. He goes to lock his doors and ended up locking mine and his. After that my remote won't work at all, but his does. What happened? Howdo I fix it? I tried to unhook the battery for 3 hrs and plug it back in. Still nothing.
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My 2003 Ford Explorer Power Door Unlock on the drivers side quit working. I can unlock the doors using the fob, unlock them from the passenger side or unlock it manually. I have replaced the Power Door Lock switch but still have the same problem.
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my heat has suddenly quit woking getting hot. It has plenty of water, my heater hoses are not gettting hot.
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I have a 2002 F-150 SC and the drivers side window quit working yesterday. All the other windows work fine and I can't see where anything else is not working. The only other thing that quit prior to this window problem was the cruise control quit a while back.
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I have a 2000 F-150 and my lights to my gauges and heater controls quit working. I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. All good. I swapped a few relays around and no luck. I tried replacing the headlight switch and that did not work. I checked power to the gauges from the headlight switch and there is no power, I then ran a hot wire to the wire that powers the gauge lamps and they do light up, so it is not a bulb issue. I assume I am not getting power, but do not know where else to look?
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So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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My Key Fob buttons stopped working, I can't remote lock/unlock the doors or truck anymore with the key. It will still open the doors and start the car however. My thought is the battery is dead. 2 Questions.
First, how do I change the battery?
Second, does the key have to be reprogrammed? If so, can I do it, or is that a dealer thing?
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I traded my 2005 prius a year and a half ago for an '08 which apparently was a rental car for 40K miles before me. It came with only one key(not a SKS)which recently quit unlocking the doors and hatch remotely. I looked under the steering column and there is only a reset button for the tire sensor guage, and a couple blanks, presumably one would be for the remote/smart key reset.
I am currently using the enclosed key to manually unlock the doors. The remote works as usual when I place it in the slot to start the car. I live an hour plus from the closest dealers, and would love to address this issue without having to go there. I checked the FOB battery and even replaced it, although the voltage was practically identical between the existing battery and a new one. The little red light is operational when i press lock/unlock. The car stays outside - i don't have a garage, and remains unlocked between trips. Recently it sat for several days in the last large snowstorm. When I finally drove it up the 1/3 mile driveway, it would not lock when i was ready to leave it up on the 'hard road'. I've checked out a few related threads, but haven't hit on this issue yet. Perhaps the 12V battery is weak?
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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The remote locks on my 2000 Jetta GLX have been working intermittently for almost a year. I had been using the manual key to lock/unlock until finally the manual lock alarm disarm also became intermittent and I found myself stuck at a truck rest stop at 1:30 a.m. with my alarm repeatedly howling into the night and no way to disarm it. I felt caught. I felt trapped. Like I was found guilty of a crime I had never committed. I knew then - I had work to do.
My research in the forums indicated that the door lock assembly was a common culprit - a gremlin, often leaving headaches as it's only calling card. I worked quick, pulling a driver's side door lock assembly out of 2003 at the local junkyard and replacing it no problem. To my surprise, although this DID fix the manual locking/unlocking/alarm disarming problem, it DID NOT fix the remote unlock problem. The culprit was still at large.
Business as usual with intermittent remote unlocking/locking/trunk-popping for weeks until my dash threw the "AIR BAG FAULT" light. I decided to question a local garage owner who's VAGCOM told me that it was caused by something on the driver's side door. He was busy, but it reset fine and I was on my way. I know now that I should have asked for the code then but I was caught in the beauty of a girl who only nails polish was the grease and dirt of the car she worked under. And about a mile down the road, the light came back on.
Now, the "AIR BAG FAULT" light is on as soon as I start the car. However, the time seems to vary slightly before the Jetta beeps and tells me in faded red letters "AIR BAG FAULT". Sometimes right when I leave my driveway, sometimes not before I drive a mile or two down the road. My remote unlock is still working intermittently.
I need both my airbag fault and the remote unlock fixed. I'm wondering if these two problems are related? Like maybe there's a loose connection that is causing the airbag sensor to short and it's beeping when it bumps out of place and maybe the intermittent remotes are being caused by slamming of my driver's side door too hard & it's losing a connection as well. I tried putting a little conductivity jelly in the female clip that goes to the window regulator motor because I heard that the airbag sensor is in there somewhere but it didn't make a difference.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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My 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
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I have a 99 F150, with the 4.6, and my headlights just randomly quit. I checked all the fuses, and switched the MFS, and main headlight switch. All I have is my DRL's. I also checked for wires coming out of the plug-in on the column, but they seem good too. I'm just not sure where to go from here....
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1997 Ford F-150 4.2L V6... I got into my truck yesterday and went to turn it on. The motor cranked half way then quit. Now everyone time I attempt to turn it on all I hear is a click and nothing else. A friend of mine who is pretty good with cars took a look at it with me. He tested my starter with a volt meter and said everything seems fine. We proceeded and checked all fuses, non of which we found are blown.
We then focused on the starter solenoid. We were able to get the truck running by arcing the 2 lower big terminals. I purchased a new solenoid thinking that was the problem, however replacing it solved nothing. Same problem is still present.
I have now arc the terminals to get the truck started 2-3 times in order to get to a shop. They spent all day looking things over and are pointing the problem to a bad starter relay. (i thought the starter relay was actually the same thing as the starter solenoid) Anyways they told us they have looked over all the diagrams they have access to and cannot locate the location of the starter relay. (maybe becasue its the solenoid?..)
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I am having problems with the blower on my truck. I can feel the air coming from vents no matter what setting on it. I think it maybe the blower itself as it was working and just quit. Is there a fuse for the blower that I can check? And I have the V6 4.2L 2 wheel drive
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I recently purchased my 1998 F150 Lariat, and it came with a small silver key (I haven't figured out what it's for yet), and a key for the ignition, plus the remote door lock control on the key chain.
Naturally, for the first several weeks I had been locking and unlocking the doors with the remote. I had assumed that the ignition key would also lock/unlock the doors and tailgate. Well, it fits into the locks, but doesn't turn.
Could it be that a different key is required for doors, or, maybe the door lock cylinders are seized?
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2002 super crew. My key fob will unlock the doors but it will not lock the doors even though lights blink and horn honks like it is locked. Also on all doors the unlock buttons works but all of the lock buttons do nothing. At first I though just maybe had 1 bad lock but why would all the doors start doing this at once?..
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We have a 97 Dodge Ram and the park and dash lights have quit working. We have tried four new(not factory) switches with the same result - no lights. What else should we try?
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