Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rear Suspension Is So Loud And Noisy
Apr 17, 2013
1998 4X4. My rear suspension is so loud and noisy it's driving me crazy. I've soaked the thing many times with wd40 but it doesnt seem to work or work not more than a day or two.
I've tried to make a pic with my phone because I think at the rear side of the leafs they are separating way too much... I've got no more than about 150lbs and a LPG-tank on my bed...
Moreover I think my truck rides bad. I know it's no Cadillac and I'm running 33s and its a 4x4 BUT I've got quite new Rancho shocks and the whole front suspension is in good shape and it got an alignment a month ago...
So what do you think, after 181.000mls time to get new rear leafs or take the old ones apart, free them from the rust, paint & grease them and put them back together?
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I've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
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I have a bothersome bottoming out type of noise coming from near my empty trunk or underneath the trunk area. I have the 17" stock rims with stock mich. tires. I had VW check for the rubber rear shock absorber plate which I do have. I Have the rear tire secured as well as the battery. I have insulated the hard foam tool storage kit so it will not bounce going over irregular surfaces. Yet I still get this sound like a loose bar hitting against the underneath on less than perfect roads.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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I just had the rear air compressor suspension replaced, but when it activates it sounds pretty noisy. It doesn't sound normal. What the heck is going on?
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I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
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The passenger side power window sounds a little rough, almost like a slight grinding and it raises and lowers slower than the driver side.
This is kind of what happened when the plastic gears crumbled on the passenger side of my ranger. Does this sound like bad gears or could it be something that needs grease?
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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I Just bought a 1997 Ford Explorer V6 4WD and I noticed after the I bought the truck that the whole rear suspension (Shocks) were completely destroyed. I failed to notice this during inspection of the car because it was parked very close to a wall so i was unable to see the area. Now I do know a bit a about cars but I no professional, It seems as if this whole section of the car just rotted out which is surprising because the rest of the car seemed OK. So now my question what do I need to buy in order to fix this I am not sure it seems like there is some sort of cross member that bolts onto the frame that connects the two rear shocks. What it looks like?
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Last weekend I did a rear brake job on my 1997 F350 4wd diesel. I replaced the shoes, replaced all the hardware, replaced the cylinders and had the drums turned. I have driven the truck all week and everything has been fine. Tonight while out of town I set the parking brake to see if it was any better since the rebuild, and it was. Shortly after releasing the parking brake I drove about an hour to get home. When I arrived home by driver side rear brake, wheel, etc. was very hot. I threw water on it and it turned to steam instantly.
I suspect that setting my parking braked hard like I did (like you're suppose to) somehow caused it to drag. What is causing this and what needs to be done so that it doesn't happen again?
After reading some other posts I went out and checked my parking brake cable and found that it is not bound up that I can tell. Perhaps it did not completely release although it seems to release just like the other side. I checked it from front to equalizing bar and it is in great shape. The plastic coating is still on the wire and there isn't any corrosion the entire length. The only thing I did differently on this trip vs the one I made two days ago was try out the parking brake before I left. The last trip I could barely feel any heat on the rear wheels when I got home, this time the driver side was scorching hot.
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I have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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I've got a 1997 Ford Expedition 5.4 with 200,000. So my rear differential leaks a few drops of fluid every time I drive it, looks like it's coming from the pinion seal. I've just been filling it topping it off with fluid.
Anyway, yesterday I got in it and started driving, I noticed a howling noise, and when I turned my rear tires started locking up. It was like that for about 5 miles until I got home, no matter which way you turned the tires would lock up.
I went under and topped off the differential with fluid again, and I pushed my parking brake in and released it. Got back in the truck and drove, and it was fine. What happened? I'm just worried it will happen again if I don't look more into it.
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I have a creaking/squeaking noise in my suspension that is getting worse and worse. maybe it isn't getting worse, but it sounds worse to me everyday because I am tired of hearing it. I have swapped out my shocks and that did not do the trick. i have tried lubricating the leaf springs and all other suspension parts in there, still nothing. i was thinking about changing out the entire leaf spring package, but exactly what the problem is.
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Some replaced the rear shock absorbers with Bilstein B$ OEM shocks. One claimed it fixed the problem.
VW dealers and mechanic claim that is normal for the car , no repair necessary?!!?
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
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Have a 2008 B6 3.6 sedan. This car for 2008 comes equipped with a sport suspension and 18" wheels. This car is real noisy on the road especially if the road surface is anything but very smooth. The tires are noisy but the sport suspension seems rough on unsmooth roads. I would like to know if different shocks would make a difference. I want the taught control of course but with better compliance over rough areas.
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At my 30,000 mile service about 6 weeks ago I reported to the service manager that the suspension seemed noisy at low speed over undulating side roads. They could not duplicate the noise. Now with the cold weather, the noise has increased considerably to the extent that my wife who claims never to hear any of the noises I obsess about, asked me what is that knocking noise
I have made an appointment at my dealership first thing on Monday and they are going to ride with me and if necessary use the "chassis ears".
From everything I have read it has to be control arm bushings or the air suspension. I think the fact it has worsened considerably now the temperature has dropped eliminates the brake pad rattle possibility.
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In cold weather, front suspension is very noisy. I've replaced stabilizer bar bushings, stabilizer bar links, control arms (complete with new bushings and ball joints). A few months prior, I replaced struts with Monroe quick struts. Noise appears when I hit a pot hole or go over a speed bump. Not really a creaking, almost like a slapping sound. I've taken a look at motor mounts and they look OK. Now that the weather is warm there's no noise. Rack and pinion were replaced about a year ago so engine cradle was removed. I removed it and reinstalled. Also installed new tie rod ends and lubed the inner tie rod joints.
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I have elantra 2012 with approx mileage of 47,000 kms. I started to fell that the front suspension becoming noisy while driving slowely on the bumps and rough roads. This noise feels even on steering wheel that this has some connection to steering rod in somewhere.
I had took the car to local dealership here in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia where the kept the car for about a weak and return it say that the car is fixed, but the noise was there or came back in days only.
Second time, the same thing happened, approached the dealership they took and hand over the car, removing some air from all 4 tires a (which i have noticed). but the problem remains the same.
I have noticed as well that the car is not so stable on the roads while driving at different speeds.
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