My rear-end differential came apart and is not repairable. I have a 1997 F150, 2WD, 4.6L engine, 5 lug wheels. Which years have the same rear ends so I can scour the junk yards for a replacement?
View 4 RepliesLast week I broke the pinion and spider gears in in rear end. Well Im getting a used rear end rather than rebuidling mine. What is the gear ratio on the 97 F150 xlt 4.6l 4x4. I figured they would all be the same but my tag is missing on my diff and I was told by an auto parts store that there were a couple different ones.
View 14 RepliesAny likely culprits? 2002 F150 (with Triton V8 if that makes a difference).
View 4 RepliesI just came back from a long trip and during the 400 miles drive I started to hear noise coming from my differential - kind of like a constant high gear loud noise. I will hear this noise when I start to accelerate and it will only gets louder and louder as I go faster and faster. I had a pinion seal leaked fixed last week and I checked the fluid and it is full.
View 9 RepliesMy 1997 4.0 Rear Wheel Drive is making a clicking noise when it is put into gear or when it switches from drive to reverse and vice versa. Sound is coming from the back of van. Does not make noise all the time. Drove 50 miles last night with no problems and minimal clicking. Could it be U-Joints going bad? Or is this a different problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
I went to unscrew the radiator drain plug but the head broke right off leaving the rest of it inside.
I drilled out a little bit of it so I could drain the coolant and bough a replacement plug but there are still pieces stuck inside and I cant get them out.
Should I just drill out the remaining pieces or is there a better way to get them out?
I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
i'm just wondering if i need to worry about preload and backlash if i just pull the carrier out and replace only the carrier bearings. would simply replacing the shims in there original side keep the specs where they should be with new bearings or would i have to completely dismantle the housing and start from scratch.
I only ask because you can move the entire carrier by hand and see the slack in the bearings but i don't seem to have any noises or vibrations coming from the rear end so i don't know if it's worth tearing into...
As I was laying under my truck today I noticed a drip under the front differential, it looks like the cover is leaking by the factory RTV gasket. This is the 00' F150. How hard is it to remove these things? It looks like the front cover mount makes it difficult....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip... For months now every time I hit a bump with the front right side there is a loud bang (sounds like a wore out bushing), and if I am driving slow at an idle you can here a thump every time the wheel goes around. And when I turn all the way it sounds more like a grinding sound.... The noise is getting very bad, what it is. I am very mechanically inclined but cannot figure it out.
Everything in the front end seem tight. When I lay under it if I get someone to spin te wheel the thump sound sounds like its in the front dif, kinda echoes through the front drive shaft but u joints seem good. I really think it's in the dif, and I'm hoping the banging noise I hear when I hit bumps is the same problem as the noise when the wheels go around....
I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
View 1 RepliesMy truck broke down on the freeway last night. I heard a cracking noise (metal breaking) and it sounded like a backfire. The engine was running fine, good RPM's. I rev it up and the noise got worse, It sounds like a bad lawn mower or go cart. I was also smelling raw fuel.
Could I have broken a exhaust flange or the manifold? It sounds like the exhaust is bad and not burning the fuel.
There were no codes or a check engine light. I only went 1/2 mile after it broke down. I had to tow it to a local shop.
It's a 2003 4.6 with 205,000 miles.
Two years ago a mechanic told me that my rear differential mount was broken - hitting the floor board. He told me this was not dangerous - just annoying. This is a car I rarely use but now considering using more. It currently has 170000 miles on it driven in the mild climate of California. Just what is involved and what should the cost range be?
View 2 RepliesI brought my 4runner in to fix a rear axle seal and to see if they could isolate a clunking noise I've been having. They said the clunking was coming from the rear differential (I believe him as that's what I heard, while driving or even just putting it into gear). They have yet to call me back, but any guesses here as to whether it is a bearing (my guess, as it is most pronounced on a bumpy road) or a cracked gear or something else. I've been driving with a clunk for about a week, but have various clunk problems for the last 80k miles ....
View 14 RepliesThe rear differential on my truck has been whining for the 2 years I've owned. The fluid has been changed but of course that didn't really solve anything. I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it. Was looking at buying the USA Standard brand rebuild kit, ring and pinion, and axle bearings and seals. How hard would/will this be to do myself?
View 4 Replies...when changing the fluid and RTV'ing the rear differential cover?
Usual suspects: Brake cleaner, Simple Green, soap and water, gasoline, etc.
I've never serviced one, but figure it is like this:
1. Drain
2. Remove cover
3. Spray, clean, rinse, whatever all the innards
4. Wipe and dry
5. Inspect. For what, I have no idea
6. Black RTV cover back on, replace drain plug, remove fill plug
7. Refill with 75w-140w Mobil 1 Synthetic (not sure what it is, but I looked it up here some time ago and bought enough)
8. Fill to within a finger tip's dip in the fill hole
I've had the RTV and oil for a while, but it's supposed to hit 59F here on Saturday with no rain!!! Time to crawl on the floor and get it done.
I didn't see any problems with my cover, so going to forgo the new aluminum finned cover this time
Guess the biggest question is what should I use to clean/flush the rear end?
This is 2002 Excursion WITH LSD rear differential. 4WD.
I'm trying to figure out what axle I have on a 2002 f350 single wheel 4x4 so I can order a replacement seal. So this morning I got to work and noticed that am oily guild was dripping from the front of my rear differential where the drive shaft hooks into it. I figure it the seal, so when I went to look up the repair kit they list several different axle options because of gearing, what axle I have as there wasn't a in owners manual with the truck. Who can I find out what axle I have so I can buy the repair kit for it...
View 5 RepliesMy truck (02 7.3L cc) started making a grilled ding type of vibration when I would let if the throttle. I felt the axle going into the rear differential was a bit loose, so I took the cover plate off. The pictures below show where the pinion I think is hitting, sort of like the bearing is allowing front to Rear differential scaring from movement. Rear movement.
How difficult is a rebuild, and is there anything I should be careful of?
Well i picked up a 96 4x4 with the 4.0 a few weeks ago and been fixing stuff weekly that i find wrong. One thing i noticed was the rear diff was leaky but couldn't get the fill plug out so left if for now. Last night my wife was on interstate and it just started making a loud noise so she pulls over calls me. I get there and drive it and it makes a woowoowoo noise and it got louder as speed increased. She was 3 miles from the exit so i drove it about 15-20 to get it off interstate than another 2 miles to her sisters. We let it sit for a few hours and found a flatbed to haul it home, and when we finally got home i drove it off the flat bed and now it was making a loud clunky noise. Parked it in drive till today. Cracked open the rear and no fluid came out.
Inspecting all the gears looked good no metal in bottom so i went and got a new rear cover and 3 qt. of fluid. Put it back together and the woowoowoo was still there but seemed to slowly go away as i drove it around the block. So what else could be going on here or do i need to drive it and warm up the fluid so it circulates? I also noticed a sheeee sound like metal on metal when braking but i changed all 4 rotors and both pads last week but i noticed the brakes in the rear that look like drum brakes was bare but i assume that is only for the ebrake so didn't bother changing them yet. Could those be hitting the inside of the rotor and making the metal to metal noise?
I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?