After removing the tires, I can't figure out how to remove the brake pads to change them. How to do it? Does the caliper have to come off? These are on the rear. 2001 F150 4X4...
View 1 RepliesI know on some cars and trucks you need a special tools to push the caliper back in. i just use a large c clamp to do the job. Question do i need any special tools to replace the front brakes pads?
View 7 RepliesWell I had a flat today, but that turned out to be a good thing. I noticed the rear brake pads are worn out. They are not metal to metal, but close. I have been looking at Rockauto, Pepboys and others. The funny thing is they never prompt or list different pads for the SRW vs the dually.
Are they the same including the parking brakes shoes? I was going to go with the OEM material or should I go with a ceramic pad?
2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
What's with the rear brake pads wearing out before the front brake pads. Took my '03 Passat in last week to the dealer for the recall and the service dept. guy said my brake pads were worn out. I took the car to my local mechanic who specializes in VW's. Sure enough, rears were almost gone but fronts still had plenty of meat left on them. Of course I had him replace the rears. But I always thought the fronts wore out first. Could this anomaly be due to ABS?
View 11 RepliesI'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
We have a 97 f150 4x4, I have pulled the transmission for repair. The rear main seal is not leaking however I have always replaced them when I pulled a tranny. This is a 5.4l and after removing the flywheel I noticed there is another cover around the crankshaft held on by 8mm bolts around the side and 2 oil pan bolts on the bottom. Does this cover come off to fully access the seal? Is there a gasket available for this cover or is silicone the standard?
View 1 RepliesI bought new pads for my truck and the fronts went on with no problem at all, but when I got to the rear the tabs/ears on the pads are about 1/8 inch wider than the notch they are supposed to fit in. I bought part number BR-1067, which is supposed to fit but obviously doesn't. What part number should I have bought? My truck is a 2007 F250 Super Crew Lariat FX4.
View 9 RepliesJust went to the dealership for 40k miles service and they told me my rear brake pads were low, around 20%. And they quote me $430 for replacement (Parts + labor). Should i go with it? or i better go buy parts from internet store and find some local mechanic install it for me?
View 9 RepliesI'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
View 13 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
View 2 RepliesHow does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
I am in the process of re-assembling a 97 F-150 that was disassembled by someone else. Looking for photos or reference as to where the bracket for the parking brake should be located and how? It looks as if the bracket connects to the front leaf spring hanger, but I'd like to see a photo of it in position as well as routing of the cable around the spring and axle. I'm concerned with re-installing it and having it in a position where it will bind or get pinched.
View 1 RepliesMy car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
So my car has 36 or so thousands miles and well the rear brake pads and rotors were SHOT! The rear rotor was falling apart and huge chunks were coming off. The issue stands now that I can't spread the rear caliper for anything, the ebrake is off too. I tried to use the C-Clamp trick but it honestly didn't even budge. I also opened up the bleeder and master cylinders cap just to cross that off the list when trying to compress. This is the hardest caliper I've ever had the misfortune of dealing with and I fear that the passenger side is not going to be any better. Aside from spending more money or renting the "tool" is there anything else to check because the C-Clamp trick has work on mine and my father trucks calipers.
View 3 RepliesJust had 30,000 km service done and was told the rear disc brake pads are almost completely worn out. The front ones are hardly worn and I'm not a fierce type driver who jams on the brakes or one who leaves the handbrake on..
I asked the service manager how come the rears are worn yet the fronts aren't - his answer was sometimes this happens.
I am wanting to change my rear brake pads and . Looking for step by step instructions or photos.
View 1 RepliesSometimes doing your own work gets pretty irritating. I just got done with my drive hub and was rotating the tires when I noticed my rear brakes need replacing. Got it all apart, no real issues until the simplest part.
Take a look at this picture. The rotor (brand new) is touching the edge of the caliper and the brake pad is too large on the immobile side. These are Duralast Rear pads from Rockauto. The rotors are for the rear but some other brand, also from rock auto.
I have a 99 F150 4x4 (5.4) 173k miles. I bought the truck from family about 6 months ago and from time to time if you stepped on the brake pedal to hard (not locking up, but pretty hard) it would feel like the passenger rear tire would lock up. He said that there was an issue with the automatic adjuster on that side. Here lately the ABS light on the dash has been coming on every couple of days, of course on the next restart it's off. Could these two issues be related?
View 3 RepliesIs it possible to remove the oil pan from a 1997 F150 with a 4.2, 2WD, without removing the engine? I seem to be reading that's it is possible (but difficult) for 4wd, but it can't be done for 2WD - is that correct?
View 4 Replies