Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Rattle Under Load / Hard Knock In The Bottom End
Aug 5, 2015
I've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
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My 2012 Accent's 1.6L GDI engine has developed an engine rattle when under load and warmed up.
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We've got a 2012 Hyundai Accent GDI. I've been hearing the rattle "ping" when the engine is under load (accelerating hard or uphill). I've read that this is typical for these engines.
I took it to our local Hyundai dealership since it's still under the 60,000 mile warranty. They updated the computer settings and I put in a fuel additive to clean up deposits. They also told me to buy name brand gas from here on out (Exxon, Shell, Mobil) as these engines don't handle cheap gas well.
Now that I've given you enough of a backstory, here are my questions:
- For those that have experienced the rattle "ping", what did you find fixed the problem?
- Any tips or things to look out for when cleaning the throttle body etc?
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Let's start from the beginning. I have an 03 f150. After loading it up for a big kayak trip, it wouldn't start. The odo read all blanks and the theft light was blinking rapidly( for about a min, then the "16 code")
Soo I checked all the fuses and relays with multimeter and they all checked fine. Checked all the connections and everything else right in front of me.
Soo this is where I'm stumped. On the pcm relay, I get constant power on the bottom pin. I also get power when the key is on to the right pin. The ground is good(left pin), as I used it for the test.
Now if I jump power from the battery to the top pin the truck starts right up. No theft light, and the odo is fine. So I replaced the relay, even though it tested fine, because that had to be it...right? Still nothing...
Not really sure what that means, or where to look.
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My '03 gives a rattle sound under load/acceleration conditions. This does not happen during the warm up period, so it appears that the engine runs lean under acceleration. There is no check engine light on for this. Approx 172k KM, (100k miles). The noise appears worse when it is hot/humid outside. I have run a can of Seafoam through it (half in the crankcase, half in the fuel line), and that doesn't seem to have worked. Therefore, I don't think that it is the injectors. Possibly fuel filter (still original)? Any easy way to test?
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My 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
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1997 F150 4x4 210,000 4.6L Windsor 5 Speed. Engine totally rebuilt 15k ago (besides for timing chains and tensioners). No codes thrown.
This morning when i started my truck, it made a knocking sound (almost like metal slapping) that seemed to be coming from the bottom end of the engine. At first I thought it was a spun bearing, but then the sound went away after a minute or 2. I have Google'd the problem, and have found a few diagnoses such as: oil draining back from the filter (or something like that), or an exhaust manifold leak that stops when the metal warms up and expands, or even the starter motor not being aligned right and not disengaging properly...
This is the first time this truck has ever done this. I changed the oil and filter about 1000 miles ago with 10w-30 oil and I believe a WIX filter. Also, this is the first time using the WIX filter
The weather this morning was around 51*F, so not too cold (to me).
Also, a few weeks ago when I changed my oil, I noticed milky white stuff only on the bottom of the oil cap, and in the feed neck. The rest of my oil looked like perfect used oil. After I noticed the milky stuff, about 2-3 times a week I would clean the stuff out of the neck and off of the cap. Just recently, there hasn't been as much milky fluid. My coolant level has not changed since I marked it during the oil change. A few buddies have said it might be condensation, but it's never been like this before.
I guess my question is, is this something that could put my truck out of service if left untreated? I'm assuming it's not a spun bearing because the noise goes away, but is there a possibility coolant could be leaking into the case but stay the same level in the reservoir?
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My Infiniti I30, 2000 model, has been great for so many years. I got 245,000 miles on it and seems that it will go for another 245000. But, since last 15 days, I can feel a distinct knock from the bottom of the car ( it feels so). This happens after about 30 minutes of driving and I can feel and hear the knock when the car is stopped at a light or stop sign. The sound comes like every few seconds at uneven pace. I cannot hear it when car is moving. My mechanic changed the Air intake sensor ( pretty expensive) but the problem still persists. I put super unleaded and also STP engine treatment. The problem continues. Car is working fine otherwise.
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I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
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I have a 2003 Volvo C70 that I've owned since 2004. In February, I ordered struts for the front with all the trimmings, (spring seat, strut mount, bump stop, etc) from FCP Euro. The struts were Sachs 553-058, which are supposed to be as good if not better than the original struts. I installed them myself, meticulously following the instructional video FCP publishes on YouTube. Installation went very smoothly. Afterwards, I noticed a rattle/knock coming from the right front when I drove over a bump or rough area.
I took it to a local tire/brake place that I have a good bit of confidence. After driving the car, the guy says, "You gotta bad strut!" Called FCP. They sent me a new strut. I installed it and sent the other back. Sounded a LOT better—for about two weeks. Now I am hearing the sound on both sides. I took it to a very reputable Volvo mechanic, I have used since the warranty expired. He drove it, confirmed the sound was not normal. We put it on the lift and he checked everything on the front suspension and was stumped. He said there was nothing wrong with my installation, no problem with the suspension.
Okay, FCP has an unconditional satisfaction guarantee, so I could replace these with a more expensive strut for say $50 more, but is the problem with the struts? I would hate to have to do this installation again and still have the same problem.
'03 C70 Convertible LT110,000 mileswell-maintained, great-running car
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I have a 04 5.4 w/ a whipple supercharger. truck has 104k miles. Has a misfire in cyl 4 (p0304, p0316) And spark knock.. I've changed the plugs, coil on cyl 4, fuel filter, and today the o2 sensor(pass side upper, bank 2??). I've ran tecron injector cleaner threw it, and always used Chevron 90 octane. (highest in Alaska)
The noise only happens when under load, or accelerating with more then half the throttle. doesn't happen when i slowly get up to speed. What I could do next? About to take it to the dealer to run a full diagnostic test on it.. Also, does not hesitate or bog. drives normal just with that noise
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Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
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I have a 2000 F-150 xlt off road with a 5.4. I have owned the truck since 2001. The truck has 170K miles on it and I change the oil between 3-4K miles. The last couple oil changes I have I have noticed I haven't been draining as much out as I usually do, this past oil change was about 3 quarts low. I thought it was very odd. The truck runs great and does not smoke or leak oil.
This morning I got in and noticed a tick or slight knock, thought maybe it needed warmed up. After a minute. I shut it off and checked the oil, to my surprise there was next to no in the engine! This has me very worried now. I haven't checked my coolant since last oil change so I'm not sure if that's where it's going. Where to start looking, I'm missing like 5 quarts of oil in 3300 miles. Again the truck run great and does not smoke at all. I was getting ready to change it this weekend, always run high millage 5w-30.
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So for the past few months I have been hearing a knock sound when taking off from a stop. It does it every time, and its loud enough to hear distinctly. It sounds like it is coming from underneath the cab, maybe the trans or rear engine area. I thought maybe a mount. It only does it when taking off from a stop it does not do it while driving. Where to start. I hope it isn't serious, at this point it is more annoying than anything else.
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A friend from work is having what he says is piston slap, but only under a load. I feel it could be the timing set since it's never been changed and at least 160k miles. Odometer quit working at least 5 years ago. Other than that, motor runs great. 1997 F150 4.6....
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So we finally found a travel trailer and picked it up yesterday. It is a 2008 Jayco 29A. Fiberglass with aluminum frame. 5345 dry weight, so shouldn't be too taxing on the Ex, but we towed it through parts of the NC mountains to get home and on steep grades it would downshift to 2nd gear and I would hear what sounded to me like pinging from the engine.
As far as I know the plugs are original, so should I just go ahead and replace them, or there also a possibility that this is just the notorious exhaust manifold leak? If all exhaust manifold bolts are still intact, is there a good test to know if it is the exhaust? No engine codes were thrown. The truck has 72k miles on it now.
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I have a '94 Mazda B3000 3.0L V6. The engine finally gave out at 244,000 miles. I had a used motor installed with approx. 110,000 miles on it. I now hear a knocking sound only when the engine is under load (in gear and accelerating). The knocking is not present while revving the engine while in park or neutral. The transmission was rebuilt last year about this time. I have described this problem to several respected mechanics and they don't know what it could be. What could cause this condition?
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1999 F150 New 5.4 ~350 miles on it. Longtube Pacesetter Headers with cometic mls gaskets. Stainless bolts.
It is making a knocking sound and I can't tell if it is internal or from the headers. I have a video that I hope you all can tell what is. I tried listening to the block with a yardstick, but I couldn't notice a significant increase in volume but my hearing isn't the best. I made sure all the header bolts were tight, but no change in sound.
YouTube...
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A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
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It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
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1999 4.6 (106K miles) will stumble / miss when at 35-50 mph under a mid throttle load (just before reaching the downshift point). Has been doing this since I bought the truck at 70K miles.
Computer has no codes, engine runs fine under all other circumstances, and gets a decent ~20 MPG on the highway.
Done the standard tune up items (plugs / motocraft) and cleaned MAF, replaced TPS, tranny flush/ filter. Replaced the left O2 sensor 2 months ago, but it dumped a code and was really noticeable when it went out.
I am about ready to dive off and replace the MAF, but at $100 a shot would like other alternatives to try first. I am really convinced the engine is leaning out and misfiring under this load.
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